Natasha Mayand Alyx Gorman 

Art escapes: 16 Australian regional holidays that mix culture and nature

After a year of cancellations, regional festivals and museums have firmer plans for 2021 – ideal for timing a weekend away or longer trip
  
  

Performers at 2020’s Shinju Matsuri in Broome
Performers at the Shinju Matsuri food and culture festival in Broome, Western Australia in 2020. Photograph: Abby Murray/Abby Murray Photography

March

Castlemaine state festival – Castlemaine, Victoria

What is it: There’s almost too much to choose from with music, art, theatre, film and talks all programmed at the Castlemaine state festival. Highlights include the opening night performance by award-winning singer-songwriter and activist Ajak Kwai, singing of her exile from South Sudan and accompanied by the Bendigo South Sudanese Women’s Ensemble; a live talk with Helen Garner; performances from Australian music legend Archie Roach; and Soul of Possum, a historical live reading by local Yapeen actor and playwright Brodie Murray.

When: 19 March–4 April

Where to stay: The Empyre Hotel has been refurbished to combine old-world charm with contemporary glamour, or for a budget stay there’s free camping at the Warburtons Bridge camping area.

Side trip: For train enthusiasts, Victorian Goldfields Railway offers steam-era journeys linking the historic gold mining towns of Castlemaine and Maldon. You have the option of upgrading to the first class art deco and Edwardian parlour carriages.

Mary Quant: Fashion Revolutionary – Bendigo, Victoria

What is it: British fashion designer Mary Quant brought the mod era to the high street, and Bendigo is the only place in Australia to see this joyful retrospective of her work. This exhibition from the Victoria and Albert Museum in London features over 110 garments as well as accessories, cosmetics, sketches, photographs and even Quant’s rival to Barbie, her line of Daisy dolls.

When: 20 March–11 July 2021

Side trip: Discover the local produce of Bendigo with a visit to a winery or a food tour with the likes of sourdough and Belgian chocolates on offer. Castlemaine and Bendigo are a close drive, so you can take in the festival and the exhibition in a single long weekend.


Notes from the Field: Bogong Centre for Sound Culture – Albury, New South Wales

What is it: The Murray Art Museum Albury (MAMA) is one of Australia’s loveliest regional galleries, and this major exhibition draws on the region’s surrounds, with experimental sound and visual art works “made in and in response to” the landscape of the small alpine village of Bogong. The exhibition features the works of 15 Australian and international artists, all recent residents at the Bogong Centre for Sound Culture.

When: 26 February–27 June 2021

Where to stay: If you’re after luxury, Circa 1928 is an impressively decorated spa hotel with copper bathtubs; while the Clifton Motel offers an affordable stay close to the centre of town.

Side trip: Hike Bogong High Plains to check out the sounds of Bogong for yourself. From MAMA, drive about 1 hour and 15 mins south via Kiewa Valley Highway to access the hiking, mountain bike and ski trails of the Alpine national park.

April

Four Winds festival – near Bermagui, NSW south coast

What is it: From the serenity of a bushland site transformed into a natural amphitheatre, this multidisciplinary music and arts festival takes place over the Easter long weekend. Highlights include Nigel Westlake’s collaboration with Lior, performances from Sydney Dance Company and Yuin artists, as well as The Iliad Out Loud – William Zappa’s adaptation of Homer’s epic tale, which earned standing ovations at the Sydney and Adelaide festivals.

When: 2–4 April

Where to stay: There are a wide range of cottages, serviced apartments and holiday homes in town at Bermagui. Half an hour’s drive north near Narooma, you’ll find the council-run Mystery Bay Campground, which combines a laissez-faire atmosphere with stunning ocean views.

Side trip: Bermagui’s famous Blue Pool is a short drive from the festival venue.

TarraWarra Biennial – Yarra Valley, Victoria

What is it: The TarraWarra Biennial takes the meaning of “Tarrawarra” (a Woiwurrung word meaning “slow-moving waters”) as its departure point. The biennial, presented by the TarraWarra Museum of Art, features works from 25 Australian artists, including Jonathan Jones and Yasmin Smith (pictured). Site-specific installations turn their back on the hyper-accelerated rhythm of modern life to explore time’s deeper geological, cosmic and natural currents.

When: 27 March–11 July 2021

Where to stay: Just 10 minutes’ north of the museum, Kangaroo Ridge Retreat is the poshest option nearby, with elegant cottages, sweeping views and a no-kids-allowed policy. In the centre of Healesville, The Old Mechanics has appartments in a refurbished historic building, while the Big4 Yarra Valley has camping and caravan sites.

Side trip: In Healesville, you can encounter your favourite native animals and support the conservation efforts of the Healesville Sanctuary.

May

Solid Gold: Artists from Paradise – Gold Coast, Queensland

What is it: The Gold Coast’s Home of the Arts (HoTA) is a major new museum which will open with Solid Gold, featuring new works from established Australian artists Hiromi Tango, Michael Candy, Samuel Leighton-Dore and Libby Howard alongside local artists and collectives. It includes sculpture, weaving, textiles, ceramics, painting, photography, video and installations set up around the gallery and outdoors.

When: 8 May–4 July 2021

Where to stay: The Gold Coast is filled with accomodation options. Right by HoTA is the Quest Robina which opened in May last year. Further afield in the hinterland, O’Rielly’s Campground has camping and glamping options, while Binna Burra Lodge has safari tents.

Side trip: Head into the Gold Coast hinterland for hiking. It’s about a 25-minute drive from HoTA, taking the State Route 3.

June


Alice Springs Beanie festival – Alice Springs, Northern Territory

What is it: As good as it sounds, this festival celebrates the beanie as a regional art form. The community-based event began with a “beanie party” organised by Adi Dunlop in 1997 and has since grown into a festival organised to sell beanies crocheted by Aboriginal women in remote communities. Aboriginal and non-Aboriginal artists share their culture and exhibit together in addition to a program of workshops, activities and prizes.

When: 25–28 June 2021

Where to stay: The Squeaky Windmill is a “tent B&B” with wild surrounds, just outside of town; while the Desert Palms has good budget options and a swimming pool.

Side trip: Take advantage of seeing Uluru – at five hours’ drive away, Alice Springs is, after all, the closest town to the red centre.


The Vision Splendid: Outback film festival – Winton, Queensland

What is it: This outback film festival is inspired by Sundance and developed by the Winton community. Expect to see a lineup of great films under the stars in the town that is emerging as a Hollywood in the outback. (Several major film productions, including Nick Cave’s The Proposition and Ivan Sen’s Mystery Road and Goldstone, were filmed in Winton.) In addition to the main festival there is also a short film competition, and special events such as Silent Night (screening of a silent film).

When: 25 June–3 July 2021

Where to stay: There are plenty of motels in Winton, as well as camping in nearby Bladensburg national park. For something upscale, the North Gregory is an historic hotel, best known as the spot where Waltzing Matilda was played live for the first time.

Side trip: Drive the Australian Dinosaur Trail: a five-day road trip encompassing the towns of Winton, Hughenden and Richmond, which allows you to follow in the footsteps of the prehistoric creatures that once roamed this region. Highlights include the Australian Age of Dinosaurs Museum as well as seeing the dinosaur footprints that inspired the stampede in Jurassic Park.

July

Devonport Jazz festival – Devonport, Tasmania

What is it: Tasmania’s premier jazz event is back with a lineup of individual and ensemble performances, with highlights including James Morrison, the Syncopators as well as vintage performance ensemble Moonlight Aviators.

When: 22–25 July 2021

Where to stay: For heritage accomodation in town (with a side of high tea), book into the Grand on Macfie. Meanwhile, Discovery Parks have affordable, kid-friendly cabins and campsites. For more seclusion there’s Compass Hut, a modern, cosy tiny house 10 minutes’ drive away.

Side trip: Take advantage of the coastal setting and go whale watching. In July you can expect to see both humpback and southern right whales migrating north.

Laura Quinkan dance festival – Laura, Cape York peninsula, Queensland

What is it: One of the most exciting events on Australia’s cultural calendar, this festival brings together about 25 dance groups from around Cape York, showcasing the diversity of Aboriginal cultures in the region. The remote festival takes place on traditional Bora land.

The centrepiece is a dance competition, but there’s also music (Yothu Yindi will perform alongside local musicians), workshops and other opportunities for knowledge sharing.

When: 2–4 July

Where to stay: The festival offers camping tickets, so you can stay right amid the action.

Side trip: The Laura region is home to several breathtaking rock art sites, with tens of thousands of years of history, including Quinkan spirit figures. Book a tour to see them.

August

Cairns Indigenous Art Fair – Cairns, Queensland

What is it: Cairns Indigenous Art Fair offers an ethical art market for Aboriginal works to be purchased for both private and public collections. Museums such as the National Gallery of Australia, the National Gallery of Canada and Harvard Art Museums have bought works from CIAF in the past. The fair provides a platform for culture exchange, the commissioning of new works and an opportunity for emerging visual and performance artists to get exposure. Even if you can’t afford to buy works, it’s a great chance to see a lot of art in one place.

When: 17–22 August

Where to stay: Cairns recently became home to three slick luxury hotels, all part of the Crystalbrook Collection – Flynn, Riley and Bailey. There are also cheap and cheerful backpackers in town and plenty of affordable Airbnbs and holiday homes for families.

Side trip: Whether you’ve been before or have yet to take the plunge, if you’re in Cairns you can’t miss one of Australia’s greatest natural wonders, the Great Barrier Reef.

Shinju Matsuri food and culture festival – Broome, Western Australia

What is it: This celebration of Broome’s multicultural heritage offers everything from Asian street eats to a long table dinner, live local music, a float parade and the Floating Lantern Matsuri, during which you can either watch or float your own message out into the ether. The event’s name is Japanese for “festival of the pearl”, and it celebrates the town’s pearling history. This year marks its 50th anniversary.

When: 21 August–5 September

Where to stay: Broome has its fair share of luxury beachside resorts. For something with more of a natural feel, Broome Bird Observatory has a range of affordable cabins half an hour’s drive from town.

Side trip: Time your visit for 23–25 August to see the Staircase to the Moon. This spectacular natural sight occurs when a full moon rises over the exposed tidal flats of Roebuck Bay, creating the optical illusion of a stairway to the moon.

September

Broken Heel festival – Broken Hill, NSW

What is it: This drag festival offers comedy, cabaret, live music and plenty of social activities – including opening and closing night parties and a day out at Silverton – all paying homage to the cult movie and musical The Adventures of Priscilla, Queen of the Desert. The festival is hosted by Philmah Bocks and RuPaul’s Drag Race Down Under cast member Art Simone.

When: 9–13 September

Where to stay: There are several affordable motels in Broken Hill, as well as a much more upscale (and Instagram-friendly) converted former church.

Side trip: Get your Mad Max on at Mundi Mundi plains lookout, 30 minutes’ drive from Broken Hill.


Ballarat International Foto Biennale – Ballarat, Victoria

What is it: One of Australia’s largest photographic exhibitions, this show features new works and retrospectives from domestic and international artists, with this year’s headline exhibition a retrospective of Linda McCartney’s rock’n’roll photography. There are also public and educational programs, including talks, workshops and prizes.

When: 28 August–24 October

Where to stay: Ballarat is a big town with plenty of reliable hotel chains, serviced apartments, Airbnbs and even a replica medieval castle. There is free camping at Slatey Creek 25 minutes’ drive away.

Side trip: Detour to Daylesford for upscale restaurants, antiquing and hot springs.

October

Cementa festival – Kandos, NSW

What is it: This biannual experimental arts festival is known for taking risks. While the 2021 lineup is yet to be announced, you can expect to see exhibited artists all around the town of Kandos, in venues from shopfronts to the golf course.

When: 14–17 October

Where to stay: There are several pub stays and motels at Kandos and nearby Rylstone. An hour north-west in Mudgee, Birches is a charming bed and breakfast; and half an hour south in the Capertee Valley there are several options including camping and cottages at Turon Gates, a trio of translucent bubble tents, high-end bed and breakfast Belle Bois and, further afield, Emirates One and Only Wolgan Valley, one of the most expensive hotels in Australia.

Side trip: Take a food and wine-focused driving tour of the region, stopping in at spots like Mudgee Honey Haven, Lowe Wines and Rylstone Olive Press.

November

Lorne Sculpture Biennale – Lorne, Victoria

What is it: This festival is a free public event that sees the Lorne foreshore become “the picturesque pedestal” for Australian and international sculptures. This year’s theme is “a sense of place” and will feature 16 public art projects.

When: 30 October–21 November

Where to stay: Lorne and its surrounds have plenty of hotel and holiday park accomodation, as well as a large private rental market through Airbnb and Stayz. At popular times the area can get expensive, so it’s worth hunting around before booking.

Side trip: Lorne is near the start of the Great Ocean Road. Once you’ve seen the sculptures, take the rest of the drive all the way to Allansford.

December

The end of the year usually marks the apex of musical festival season in Australia’s regions, with major events such as Falls festival and Woodford folk festival. These festivals are yet to announce how they’ll proceed in 2021, with more news to come later in the year.

  • This piece was amended on 22 March to include an image of Yasmin Smith’s work Seine River Basin, and correct the number of artists appearing at the TarraWarra Biennial from 24 to 25.

 

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