Lovely Laugharne, on the Taf estuary, with its grand but dilapidated 12th-century castle and views over Carmarthen Bay is linked in verse and visitors to Dylan Thomas. On the way into town, we pass St Martin’s Church, where the poet is buried and Brown’s Hotel, where he guzzled and gossiped (and gave out the bar’s phone number as his own).

There’s more Thomas to come but for now we head to The Cors. A small stone bridge over the Corran leads into a large garden where, on a sunny autumn day, a Japanese pagoda tree dazzles in red and orange. Behind lies the Victorian country house, two storeys of shabby beauty that for over 20 years have been home to chef-patron Nick Priestland’s fine-dining restaurant.

But the times they are a-changin’, as another famous Dylan once observed, and Nick is now scaling back the restaurant in favour of providing accommodation in three artfully decorated, comfortable and well-appointed guest rooms.

Over afternoon tea, Nick tells my wife and me about his early artistic life in London – his own abstract paintings are dotted around the restaurant, bar and rooms – and the years he has now spent back in Laugharne, running the restaurant and hosting performers at the town’s annual Laugharne Weekend festival.

I ask, to laughter from Nick, if it’s now all about the rooms.

“Well, it’s supposed to be, but I have so many regulars I’m still opening the restaurant Thursday to Saturday.”

He’s also guilty of understatement when he tells me the rooms were “tidied up a bit” before being opened to guests. From the moment he shows us the garden-facing Blue Room it’s obvious he understands what it takes to create atmosphere. Shutters pull back to reveal windows on to the garden, while inside there’s an old fireplace, lilac walls and objets d’art providing plenty of character. Add a double bed that’s soft and inviting and you have perfect short-break material.

There’s time before dinner for a look around Laugharne, with its pubs and restaurants (the pick of which is the Portreeve Tafarn), and a castle-and-waterside stroll that is bathed in magic-hour sunshine. We walk past Thomas’s writing shed to his home, now the Dylan Thomas Boathouse – a museum and tearoom with a terrace that has views over the estuary.

Over slices of bara brith in the tearoom we discuss the following day’s possible adventures: a walk around the bay and salt marshes; a trip to Pendine Sands (famous for its long beach and land speed record attempts in the 1920s); or seaside fun along the coast at Tenby.

That evening Nick is ready in the bar with wine, laughter and gossip. I forget he is also meant to be cooking. He hasn’t but adds a caveat: “My kitchen hero is Keith Floyd, so you’ll have to bear with. I’ll get to it soon, though.”

And indeed he does. Our starter of smoked haddock crème brulée is creamy and has sizable chunks of fish, while a main of salt marsh lamb with dauphinoise potatoes is modern-European done with balance and finesse. Dessert brings lemon tart for me and sticky toffee pudding for my wife. It also brings contentment.

It’s easy to see how Nick’s cooking has earned him plaudits, and though some will miss out as he steps back from the restaurant, many well-fed, well-entertained guests will now get a chance to book in for the night and soak this up – at a leisurely pace for them and for Nick.

• Accommodation was provided by The Cors Country House, doubles from £90 B&B or £150 for dinner B&B, 01994 427 219, thecors.co.uk. For more information on the county visit discovercarmarthenshire.com

Ask a local

Maggie James, arts co-ordinator, Carmarthenshire county council

• Walk
The coast and Carmarthen bay views are stunning on the Dylan Thomas Birthday Walk, inspired by his Poem In October. It’s around two miles and mainly uphill.

• Eat
Grab a light lunch (of Welsh cheeses and local pies) at the Ferryman Deli in Laugharne. Or for fine dining, take a trip out to the Grove in Narberth.

• Visit
You have to see Laugharne Castle. Then head up the road to the Tin Shed Experience, a quaint 1940s museum with memorabilia, models and packaging, as well as occasional art exhibitions.

• Shop
Visit the Gate gallery in St Clears, which offers a range of artisan Welsh crafts and gifts. Then pop in to Hughes the Butcher, the traditional butcher’s shop next door, for homemade sausages, pies and faggots.