In the green, wine-growing areas of northern Tenerife, sharp-eyed visitors might spot makeshift restaurants in garages and courtyards. These unpretentious places are guachinches, originally outlets for small growers to sell their surplus wine. The atmosphere is convivial and relaxed. Oilcloths in vibrant colours cover the tables and they are traditional, family-run affairs: the men selling the wine and women in charge of the food.

Cheese, bread and wine – mostly red – arrive first. The menus, with low prices (and cash only), feature traditional dishes such as carne cabra (goat meat), garbanzas (chickpea stew), papas arrugadas (Canarian boiled potatoes with a wrinkly, salty crust) or carne fiesta (marinated fried pork).

As their popularity grew, so did complaints from restaurants, and in 2013 the regional government imposed rules on guachinches: they can offer no more than three local dishes and house wine or water, and opening periods must not exceed four months in a year – and must stop even before that if they run out of their own produce (some only operate at weekends). Many bend the rules, however.

Wine culture on Tenerife is deep rooted and goes far beyond its five Protected Designation of Origin (PDO) areas. Reports presented to Philip II of Spain mentioned Tenerife’s vineyards as early as 1573, and the volcanic terroir produces juicy, earthy, mineral-rich wines to this day. Furthermore, it is believed the word evolved from the English “I’m watching you”, a warning from British wine merchants trading with non-English-speaking growers.

Guachinches can be hard to find. This is part of the appeal – look out for scrawled signs nailed to trees. Santa Úrsula on the north coast is a top spot: try Nunca Es Lejos, a couple of kilometres south of town on Calle Las Turcas, or El Ramal in nearby La Orotava.

• The best tool for tracking down guachinches is the app, Guachapp