Er, where?
The village of Vaujany, an hour by car from Grenoble, struck unexpected gold in the 1980s when the government compulsorily purchased a giant chunk of land for France’s largest hydro-electric scheme. Astute villagers invested the money in what was then the largest cable-car in the country, to reach the slopes above the neighbouring Alpe d’Huez ski resort.
Why try it?
The vast size of the ski area, gobsmacking scenery and the family facilities, including a state-of-the-art creche and leisure complex. Vaujany is an unspoilt destination offering great skiing without the big resort hubbub. It won’t suit partygoers and keen shoppers though.
Mountain lowdown
In its own ski area at Montfrais, above Vaujany, is a nursery slope served by a covered magic-carpet lift, particularly good for children. A gentle bowl over in Alpe d’Huez is arguably the best beginner area in the Alps. Intermediates can ski from village to village on wide-open slopes. For expert skiers, the 16km Sarenne black run is not to be missed, and there’s some fabulous off-piste terrain, both above Vaujany itself and around Alpe d’Huez. Don’t miss La Combe du Loup (Valley of the Wolf) with its views across to La Grave and the mighty La Meije mountain. The first part is steep, and it often has excellent powder. In the natural half-pipes and undulating terrain here you might not see another soul.
Off the hill?
The village has a few small shops, one supermarket, a 1,000-year-old church and lots of ancient barns and farmhouses. The focal point for families is the leisure centre, with swimming pool and ice-skating rink, as well as the creche and a restaurant. There’s also a toboggan run, zorbing and visits to an ice cave.
Après any good?
This is not a party resort: the few bars are all pretty quiet. Neighbouring Alpe d’Huez is the place for après action, but La Folie Douce, at the top of the Marmotte chair lift has live music and entertainment on its terrace.
Where do I eat?
Some of the best food in the Alps is at Chalet Saskia, where Kiwi chef Marcus Cull has worked for 20 years: expect lots of tiny courses, with a host of creative amuse-bouches. Otherwise there’s La Remise (wood-fired pizzas, old farming implements hanging from the ceiling) in the village. Up on the slopes, there are some excellent lunch places. Try cosy Chalet du Lac Besson on the cross-country track (regional dishes beside a log fire) or L’Altibar, next to the altiport, where you can eat while watching microlights take off. La Combe Haute, near the end of the Sarenne run, is a traditional mountain eatery, with tartiflette, pizzas and salads at good prices. Then there’s the Folie Douce bar/self-service with its adjacent gourmet restaurant La Fruitière.
Where do I stay?
Chalet Saskia is the most comfortable place to stay. It’s an attractive chalet that sleeps 10 in each of its two halves, and is convenient for the main cable car and the leisure centre, though the main reason to choose this chalet is for its great food. The smaller chalets also have excellent food. Chalets Rostaing, Lucette, Gentiane and Dibona are all in the hamlet of La Villette, with a week half-board from £485pp. Higher up in the main village is Residence La Perle de l’Oisans , with 11 spacious apartments from €600 a week. Those on tighter budgets could try Résidence Maeva Le Dome des Rousses, with studios for three from €390 a week.
The nitty gritty
248km of pistes in the shared Alpe d’Huez ski area; 84 lifts; the highest altitude is 3,330m
Good for Scenery, unspoilt village atmosphere, fabulous mountain restaurants, off-piste opportunities, families
Limitations Vaujany is low-lying so you may not be able to ski back down to the village in December or mid-April. It’s very quiet, with few bars and limited nightlife
Getting there Fly to Grenoble or Chambéry, both 90 minutes away
Costs Lift pass €157-215 a week. Beer €2-€2.50 a demi or €4-5 a pint
• Green runs 38 | • Blue runs 32 | • Red runs 34 | • Black runs 16
