The Golden Ring is a popular destination for Russian tourists: the towns in the region are ancient, and many were important centres in medieval Russia. But this area, north-east of Moscow, has more to offer, such as traditional food, and nature straight from Russian fairytales. Many visitors buy package tours for the entire region, but it’s easy to visit the towns on day trips from the capital, especially if you’re not ready for a week-long tour. The journey times to most are a couple of hours by train from Moscow.
Yaroslavl
What to see The heritage of this place is vast: the Transfiguration monastery, founded in the 11th century, was a favourite of Ivan the Terrible and is now a museum. It is also part of the city’s large Museum Reserve. A walk along the banks of the Volga, the longest river in Europe, is as much a cultural activity as it is a hike. The Governor’s house museum has an excellent collection of the Yaroslavl school of icon painting and the Music and Time Museum has the country’s largest collection of antique record players, vinyl records and clocks.
For dinner, consider Ioann Vasiliyevich (Revolutsionnaya Street), a restaurant themed after a Soviet film but interesting even to those who haven’t seen it. The decor is a mixture of medieval Russian halls and 1970s Soviet flats, and the food combines traditional Russian and Soviet cuisines. The restaurant is a part of the Cinema Club hotel.
How to get there By train from Moscow’s Yaroslavskiy station. Return tickets from £18, journey takes around four hours.
Where to stay The Cinema Club has private rooms from £33. For a more affordable stay, go to Like Hostel (25B Andropova street), only a few streets away, with dorms from £6 and private rooms from £18.
Vladimir
What to see This ancient Russian city is a must-see for its traditional white stone architecture and monumental Orthodox cathedrals: the Cathedral of Saint Demetrius and Dormition (Uspensky) Cathedral – both on Bolshaya Moskovskaya Street. The Golden Gate, which marks the entrance into the old town, is another famous landmark. For those interested in traditional crafts and souvenirs, the Museum of Crystal and Lacquer Miniatures is in the Old Believers Trinity Church behind the Golden Gate, and also exhibits traditional embroidery. The Gingerbread museum might interest those with kids or a sweet tooth – a standard tour includes a tasting. The museum’s cafe, called Blinnaya Izba (Blini Hut), serves traditional Russian crepes, blini, with a variety of fillings and toppings. If you’re in the city for more than a day, consider a trip to the ancient Bogoluybovo village, a 20-minute drive from the city and home to the Unesco-protected Church of the Intercession, on the banks of the Nerl river.
How to get there Trains from Moscow’s Kursky or Yaroslavskiy stations cost from £14 return and take between 90 minutes and three hours.
Where to stay Vozduh hostel is a five-minute walk from the Golden Gate and has dorm beds from £6 a night. Orion hotel, close by on 2-aya Nikolskaya Street, is a popular choice with tourists and has doubles from £45.
Sergiyev Posad
What to see Sergiyev Posad is known as the heart of Russian Orthodoxy. The Trinity Lavra of St Sergius (or Troitse-Sergieva Lavra), one of the largest Orthodox monasteries in the world, is the major tourist attraction. Founded in the 14th century, it is still an active monastery. Visit during the week to avoid the crowds and walk around the Lavra’s peaceful buildings and take in its tradition. There are two cathedrals and eight churches on the grounds, as well as two cafes, serving local must-tries: homemade bread, pastries and kvas (a soft drink made with fermented bread). A nearby restaurant, Gostevaya Izba, (Guest Hut) serves Russian food made from monastery produce – vegetables, dairy products, bread and local fish, as well as traditional herbal teas in real samovars.
How to get there On a suburban train from Moscow’s Yaroslavskiy station, the journey takes around 90 minutes, with returns from £4. The walk from Sergiyev Posad station to the Lavra is about 15 minutes.
Where to stay The Old Lavra Hotel is in the monastery grounds and has private rooms from £31. Also in the grounds, the Voznesenskaya Gostinitsa hostel has beds from £5 – although you can only book by phone, so you may need help from a Russian speaker: +7 496 541 32 17 3
Suzdal
What to see A 30-minute drive from Vladimir, Suzdal has its own Kremlin fortress, five monasteries and countless churches. If you’re getting tired of history and religion, go to Torgovaya ploschad (Market Square), and shop for berries, honey and mushrooms, or souvenirs. There’s also an open-air Museum of Wooden Architecture and Peasant Life that has old rural houses brought to Suzdal from all over the region.
How to get there Take the train from Moscow (Kusrskiy or Yaroslavskiy station) to Vladmir (returns from £14) and then a bus from Vladimir bus station, 1 Vokzalnaya Square, to Suzdal (returns £2).
Where to stay Hostel Patchwork offers dorms from £8 and excellent traditional Russian breakfasts. For private rooms head to Volshebniy Sad guesthouse, with private rooms from £17, a bike-renting service and barbecue facilities.
Rostov Velikiy
What to see Rostov Velikiy (don’t confuse it with Rostov-on-Don, a different town in a different part of Russia) is one of the oldest towns in Russia: its chronicles date to AD862. There’s a Kremlin fortress, four monasteries, countless ancient churches, and the large, peaceful Lake Nero, a perfect spot for contemplation. If you get too philosophical, don’t forget Rostov is also a foodie destination: head to Lukova Sloboda, a local museum and cafe exploring the onion traditions of the region, to try onion soup and onion buns, or buy a jar of onion jam as a souvenir. Next to it, on Dostoyevskogo Street, is Schuchiy Dvor, serving pike from the nearby lake; try it in a traditional soup called ukha, or in burger form with raspberry sauce.
How to get there Trains from Moscow’s Yaroslavskiy station costs £14 return and take about three hours.
Where to stay Close to the Kremlin, on Podozerka Street, is the popular Khors guesthouse. It’s in an old wooden merchant’s house owned by local artists. The rooms, from £17, are decorated in dacha style, complete with Russian carpets – but remember to book well in advance. For even more affordable lodging, head to the hostel in the Troitse-Sergiyev Varnitskiy monastery: it offers dorm beds from £4.50 and private rooms from £10.
