Daniel Start 

10 of the best coastal swimming spots in Devon and Cornwall

With Devon and Cornwall sea temperatures at a record high, Daniel Start, author of the Wild Guide, chooses 10 of his favourite secluded swimming spots in the area
  
  

Pedn Vounder, West Cornwall
The water's lovely ... the dramatic sweep of beach and turquoise waters of Pedn Vounder, Cornwall. All photographs by Daniel Start/Wild Things Publishing unless stated Photograph: Daniel Start/Wild Things Publishing

Pedn Vounder, Penwith, west Cornwall

This dramatic bay is protected by the towering granite outcrop of Logan’s Rock. In summer, the sandbars create shallow blue tidal lagoons that warm up in the afternoon sun. The water is crystal clear and this is definitely a clothing-optional beach. There are views out over to Porthcurno and the Minack cliff-top theatre. There’s also a wonderful wild campsite and lovely café on the cliffs above at the hamlet of Treen.
Just east of Porthcurno, sign-posted Treen

Nanjizal Bay, Penwith, west Cornwall

This is the real Land’s End: wild and rugged with great caves. The amount of sand comes and goes, according to the winter storms, but there’s a waterfall and stream for kids to play in. The real attraction is the amazing Song of the Sea eyelet rock arch. First bathe in the shallow rock pool, then snorkel through the sea tunnel, admiring the astonishing coralline pink walls while the water thunders and booms.
A two-mile walk north of Porthgwarra, near Porthcurno

Kynance Cove, Lizard, west Cornwall

Set among the wild flower covered rocks of the Lizard Peninsula’s breathtaking and rugged coastline, popular Kynance Cove was long loved by the Romantic poets and painters. Its clear, azure water is perfect for snorkelling and swimming and the extraordinary, serpentine-rock towers encourage dare-devil jumpers. At low tide, you walk around to the north bay opposite Asparagus Island where there are sea caves, rock pools and jumps.
Signed, 1 mile north of Lizard


Port Gaverne, north Cornwall

Port Gaverne, near Port Isaac, has something for everyone. There’s a wonderful inlet with a small safe beach for children and a rocky peninsula with increasingly high ledges for the brave to jump from. Build your confidence, and even practise some dives. Strong swimmers can head through the “canyon” and enter the huge sea caves to the right.
Just east of Port Isaac. Park above the village

Stanbury Mouth, north Cornwall

This is a fantastic wild and remote low-tide sand beach. It’s situated below the somewhat eerie GCHQ “listening station”. A favourite approach is along the cliff path from Duckpool, two miles to the south - also a wonderful low-tide sandy beach with freshwater pool and stream, and ice cream van – perfect for families.
2 miles from Duckpool

Lansallos coves, Polperro, south Cornwall

A beautiful walk leads down through a pretty coombe lined with wild garlic and bluebells in spring, with a waterfall at the end. This is smuggler’s Cornwall with a hewn passageway and, five minutes further along the coast, a hidden quay carved from the rocks. In the village is the excellent National Trust campsite.
2 miles west of Polperro

Broad Sands, north Devon

Hidden on Devon’s wild north coast you will find one of Exmoor’s best secret swimming beaches. Nestling beneath wooded cliffs between Watermouth and Combe Martin, this deep, double cove has many caves to explore, and two lovely secluded shingle beaches offering sheltered swimming. There’s even an island lookout to climb.
Reach the beach by dropping down a long narrow stairway through the woods near Sandy Cove Hotel - 1½ miles west of Combe Martin on A399

Woody Bay, Martinhoe, north Devon

High moors give way to dizzying drops of 800ft east of Martinhoe, and Woody Bay opens up dramatically beneath the trees. Far below, the boulder-strewn beach is almost unvisited, save for gulls and guillemots. An ancient cobbled track winds down past a limekiln and waterfall. Look carefully and you’ll see the remains of the old pier. Look beyond the waterfall and you will find a semi-natural rock pool, offering a secret place to plunge and swim.
3 miles west of Lynmouth, beyond Lee Bay. It’s a long walk down the winding access road

Moor Sands, East Prawle, south Devon

Prawle Point is a wild and rugged headland with tiny white coves strung along the coastline like pearls. This is the best of a trio of wonderful white coves. The beach surface is made up of tiny round white beads of quartz, smooth under foot. A Bronze Age field ridges line the slopes above. A track leads down the cliff-side and you drop on to the beach with the help of a rope. Several offshore rock islands make this a fun place to play.
1½ miles west from Prawle Point car park

Soar Mill Cove, south Devon

Wild grassy cliff tops with tiny coves below – Soar Mill Cove is a short walk below the tiny but luxurious Soar Mill Cove Hotel. At high tide, swim around the little island and at low tide explore the many caves along the cliff bottom. Afterwards, head up to the nearby Iron Age hillfort at Bolt Tail for spectacular sunsets and the chance to spot dolphins and porpoises.
On lanes, 2 miles west of Salcombe

The Wild Guide: Devon, Cornwall and the South West by Wild Things Publishing (£14.99) lists over 500 secret places, including wild swimming, ancient woodlands, wild camping and local food producers. Daniel Start is also author of Hidden Beaches and Wild Swimming

 

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