Look Barcelona Bruc Guest House, Eixample Dreta (Right)
The Eixample is all about elegant living and is where modernism really took off at the turn of the 20th century. Every millionaire wanting to keep up with the Jordis commissioned Antoni Gaudí and others to build them a home here. This apartment block was once the home of painter Josep Maria Sert, a friend of Salvador Dalí and best-known for murals at New York’s Waldforf-Astoria. Calm, pale-grey decor is the style here now in the spacious, high-ceilinged rooms. There are seven bedrooms and a lovely breakfast room overlooking one of Eixample’s trademark wide avenues.
• Doubles from €119 B&B, Carrer Bruc 96, +34 670 251225, lookbarcelona.com
Praktik Bakery, Eixample Dreta
It’s not hard to find this new hotel – just follow your nose (and the queues). The best bread in Barcelona comes out of the ovens of the Baluard bakery in Barceloneta and it has teamed up with this fast-expanding chain of great-value, stylish hotels to open here, in the heart of the city. The 74 rooms are simply decorated. Not big, but big enough. And, hey, you’ll be spending all your time at the ground-floor cafe watching the breads and pastries being made, and then wolfing them down. I’m betting the people at Praktik know how to have a good time – they have just opened wine-themed Praktik Vinoteca a few minutes away.
• Doubles from €60 room-only, Carrer de Provença 279, +34 934 880061, hotelpraktikbakery.com
Retrome, Eixample Dreta
The Eixample was planned in the 19th century as a green and healthy antidote to the dark and fetid alleys of the old town. Greedy developers screwed with the plans but you get a sense of them at this guesthouse, which is in a block of streets with a wonderful open space at its heart. There are 11 rooms and four apartments, with original hand-painted glass wall tiles and Dutch and German furniture from the 1960s and 1970s. You’ll find top tips about the area on the very 21st-century smart TVs. Cora, the Dutch manager, has a real passion for design.
• Doubles from €80 room-only, Carrer de Girona 85, +34 931 744037, retrome.net/barcelona
TOC, Eixample Esquerra (Left)
A friend recommended a hostel called Urbany BCN Go, but I can’t describe it because the guy at the front desk was extraordinarily rude and wouldn’t even let me have a look around. He did me a favour though, because I walked out, crossed Gran Via and discovered TOC hostel. The entrance, with a huge, light atrium, is more five-star hotel than hostel. The reception staff are lovely and there’s a great communal area with Apple computers, giant screen and bar. There’s also a pool and deck with loungers. Dorms are cleverly designed for a degree of privacy, and rooms with double and bunks are a steal for families.
• Dorm beds from €12.75, en suite doubles from €63.50. Gran Via de les Corts Catalanes 580, +34 934 534425, tochostels.com/barcelona
Casa Bella Gracia, Gràcia
Gràcia, a village swallowed up by the city, makes a great base for a stay in Barcelona: away from the tourist crowds, it retains a sense of community (give or take the odd foreign hipster). You’ll find this hotel, once a carpenter’s workshop, down one of its many little streets. There are 12 rooms, neatly designed, with beautiful tiled floors and modernist posters. There’s a pretty roof terrace for a DIY breakfast coffee or sundowner. The owner, Jaume, is a fascinating bloke. He sends out an email full of suggestions about the area a week before guests arrive. One of my favourite Barcelona restaurants, La Singular, is a minute or two away.
• Doubles from €65 room-only, Carrer de Sant Agustí 4, +34 638 493428, casabellagracia.com
Tailor’s, Sant Antoni
Designed as a 1930s tailor’s workshop (obviously!), this small hostel is charming from its owner, who used to be in the fashion business, and her daughter, who doles out top-notch tips on restaurants, to its decor – old sewing machines, beautiful textiles and antique corsets in frames. The dorms are basic and old-school, but the prices are very good for this part of town. There’s a roof terrace and free walking, cycling and photography tours.
• Dorm beds from €12, Carrer de Sepúlveda 146, +34 932 505684, tailorshostel.com
H10 Port Vell, Harbourside
This part of town has never really had much in the way of interesting places to stay. I always recommend Hotel del Mar, which does the job for €70 or so but things are changing in the area. The Serras is new, but you’ll be lucky to pay less than €200, and Soho House is launching its first Spanish outpost here next year. The H10 chain of hotels is owned by a Catalan family and spreading across Europe. They always have great locations and affordable rooms. This new hotel has fabulous views across the harbour from the rooms and roof terrace (with pool). Breakfast looks amazing but is €19 – save your money and walk to nearby Barceloneta market for a pa amb tomàquet (toast with tomato) and coffee for a few euros.
• Doubles from €109 room-only, Pas de Sota Muralla 9, +34 933 103065, h10hotels.com
Chic&basic Port Barcelona Apartments, Raval
Chic&basic does what it says on the box with its hotels and apartments. Its latest venture is in one of Barcelona’s most, er, characterful barrios. People have been talking up the Raval district, just off the Ramblas, for years but it can still feel a bit seedy in parts and that’s what makes it interesting. There are 10 apartments here, each with lounge (and sofabed), double bedroom and kitchen – perfect for a couple with young kids who want to be in the centre of town for a few days and save a little by eating in occasionally. Don’t worry about that dodgy bloke pushing a shopping trolley past your window – he’s after scrap metal, not your mobile phone ...
[Chic&basic Port apartments in Barcelona closed on 15 September 2015: see footnote.]
• Apartments from €59 a night, Carrer de l’Est 21, +34 933 027111, chicandbasic.com/barcelona-port-apartaments
We Boutique Hotel, Arc de Triomf
The Italian owners of this tiny boutique hotel in a modernist apartment block, right next to Ciutadella park, have used lots of retro furniture and half-stripped timber but it’s not too cool for school. There are only six rooms, each with intricate tiled floors and simple furnishings. Pay a few more euros and you get a room with floor-to-ceiling windows and a balcony. It’s on the edge of the Born district, with its vast choice of bars and restaurants. Just to get you started, try Bar del Pla on Carrer de Montcada.
• Doubles from €70 B&B, Ronda de Sant Pere 70, +34 932 503991, weboutiquehotel.com
Yurbban Trafalgar, Born
“It means Young and Urban,” explained the receptionist. The two Bs are not explained, but don’t let the name put you off this spanking new hotel in the Born. There are 56 rooms in this former textile factory, in an area once devoted to all things clothing (bra and knicker shops still dominate the street). It’s all a bit corporate, but at least it tries with witty little signs (“Only for authorised personnel, and Bill Murray”, says the sign on one door) and rich fabrics and wallpapers. And all will be forgiven once you get to the roof, where there’s a plunge pool, loungers and mesmerizing views over the Born and beyond.
• Doubles from €120 room-only, Carrer de Trafalgar 30, +34 932 680727, yurbban.com
• This article was amended on 18 May 2015. Pillowrooms hotel has changed its name to We Boutique Hotel. This article was further amended on 23 September 2015 because chic&basic has asked us to say that their port apartments in Barcelona closed on 15 September 2015.
