Joanne O'Connor 

Travel tips: experience exotic Essaouira, and this week’s deals

Soak up the souk atmosphere and marvel at the charm of Essaouira, plus York’s oxymoronic townhouse hostel and seeing Europe by rail more cheaply
  
  

Boats beneath the fortified ramparts of Essaouira, Morocco
Star of Africa: boats beneath the fortified ramparts of Essaouira, Morocco. Photograph: Nikki Bidgood/Getty Photograph: Nikki Bidgood/Getty

Take me there: Essaouira, Morocco

Why go?
The launch of direct flights from Luton to Essaouira in May will bring Morocco’s wild Atlantic coastline within easy reach of sun-starved British travellers (easyjet.com). The same trade winds that made this a thriving port in the Middle Ages now bring surfers to its string of vast, sandy beaches. Whether you’re here to surf or soak up the atmosphere, the white sugar-cube houses, rooftop cafés, stylish riad hotels and imposing fortified walls are sure to make a lasting impression.

What to do
Shop for leather slippers, spices, argan oil and Berber carpets in the souk, which offers a gentler introduction to the art of haggling than the labyrinthine markets of Marrakech and Fez. Walk the crenellated town walls, studded with cannons and watchtowers (which Game of Thrones fans will recognise as the city of Astapor). Explore the beach on horseback or camel (equievasion.com) or learn to ride the waves at one of the surf schools. Enjoy a steam bath at the hammam of the Sofitel Thalassa Mogador, open to non-guests (sofitel.com). Finish the day with a drink on the rooftop at Taros Café (taroscafe.com).

Where to stay
Dar Mouna Mogador is a new guesthouse in the medina, with just five bedrooms set around a courtyard and a rooftop terrace where you can eat delicious breakfasts of Moroccan pancakes, eggs, fruit and yogurt (doubles from £42, 00 212 524 78 32 56).

Where to eat
The colourful tiled courtyard of Patisserie Chez Driss is the place to go for a morning coffee and a pastry (10 rue El Hajjali). At lunchtime head to one of the quayside fish stalls for freshly grilled sardines. For something fancier, try Chez Sam (00 212 524 47 65 13), also in the harbour.

Insider tip
Sara Jolly of surfing and windsurfing school Explora (exploramorocco.com) recommends the rustic café at Taganza beach: “It’s run by an ageing Moroccan hippy and you’ll find an eclectic mix of people and rescued dogs, cats, ducks and donkeys. It serves the best barbecued fish and lobster.”

Give me a break

Cheap new townhouse hostel in York Safestay has opened a “posh hostel” in York. The budget brand, which opened its first hostel in Elephant & Castle three years ago, has taken over a Georgian townhouse within the city walls, and has beds in a shared dorm from £18 per night and private twin rooms from £60. Original features, including fireplaces and chandeliers, have been preserved although the decor is contemporary (safestayyork.co.uk).

Cheaper rail travel in Europe Savings of up to 15% on Interrail passes and free child travel have been announced. Adults booking an Interrail Global Pass before 31 March can save up to £31 on a pass offering five days travel within a 10-day period, bringing the cost to £171pp. Travel must be completed by 16 May. Up to two children can now travel free with an adult on an Interrail pass, seat reservations are extra (voyages-sncf.com).

 

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