Del Marcos
This quintessential modernist hotel designed by the architect William Cody in 1947 pays homage to the organic architecture of Frank Lloyd Wright. It is in the Historic Tennis Club district – founded in 1937 and the oldest neighbourhood in Palm Springs – and nestles into the mountainside. The 17-room, adults-only property is built of native stone and redwood and benefited from a 2013 restoration that revealed its fine mid-century bones. The Chi-Chi room offers a fun poolside retro romp of the era’s art and furniture, while the Errol Flynn suite boasts a high, angled ceiling, full kitchen, and a series of wooden shutters that let in light or offer privacy. The Hope/Crosby room offers a quiet retreat with views of Albert Frey’s legendary house on the hill.
• Doubles from $179 B&B, +1 760 325 6902, delmarcoshotel.com
Ace Hotel and Swim Club
There’s no denying that the Ace remains hipster central – when I was there I met a posse of Italian Ducati PRs organising a race up the mountain to launch a new bike – but it’s also a pleasant place to stay. The rooms exude a breezy mid-1970s nostalgia and many feature private patios; the pool is large and inviting and it’s hands down the best place for people watching in South Palm Springs. From the macrame-adorned lobby, to the converted Denny’s diner, observe LA creatives frolic at the weekend in the Lance O’Donnell-designed space, carved out of a mid-century Westward Ho motel. Pop in for a pool party, or retreat to the Feel Good Spa.
• Doubles from $109, +1 760 325 9900, acehotel.com/palmsprings
Desert Star
Designed in 1954 by modernist architect Howard Lapham – famous for his homes for Hollywood stars and the Rat Pack-era Chi-Chi nightclub – the Desert Star is refreshingly low-key. In the sought-after South Palm Springs area, its adults-only rentals offer five studio apartments with kitchens (some with the original Formica) surrounding a heated pool and sheltered by towering palms. Breathtaking views of the mountain can be had from almost every angle, including the private patio spaces with fire-pits. It’s walking distance to the Ace hotel where lots of action happens on weekends but you may find yourself so enamoured of the laid-back atmosphere here you may never emerge from your comfy suite.
• Studios from $139 a night (two night minimum stay), +1 800 399 1006, desertstarpalmsprings.com
Hideaway
This 1947 treasure in the Historic Tennis Club district, was designed by Herbert Burns, the pioneer of the Palm Springs “ultra-modern motor court inn”. A favourite of renowned architectural photographer Julius Shulman, it’s next to the majestic San Jacinto mountains. Originally called the Town and Desert, its lush lawn and 10 spacious rooms often appeared in Architectural Record; its late 1940s elegant simplicity was revamped in 2002 and still offers retro charm with modern amenities. Rooms flanking a large outdoor saltwater pool feature patios, kitchenettes and original tile bathrooms. A common area remains perfectly preserved in its 1947 chic glory.
• Doubles from $149 B&B, + 1 760 323 3585, orbitin.com/hideaway
Orbit In
A few hundred metres down the road from the Hideaway, Herbrty Burns’s third Palm Springs hotel came to life a decade later in 1957. Exuding mid-century, space-age optimism, the Orbit In (as in “come in from another galaxy”) also features a treasure trove of 1950s collectibles displayed by owners Kevin Miller and Jinny Park (who also own the Hideaway). The nine-room property was refurbished (by Lance O’Donnell of Ace fame) and reopened in 2001. Kevin and Jinny are at the hotel most weekends and can often be found at the daily complimentary Orbitini cocktail hour at the hotel’s Boomerang Bar. A perfect Palm Springs getaway.
• Doubles from $139 B&B, +1 760 323 3585, orbitin.com
Casa Cody
For a bit of a break from mid-century modernist literalism, a stay at Palm Springs’ oldest hotel, the Casa Cody, is recommended. Founded in the 1920s by Harriet Cody, a cousin to Buffalo Bill, the sprawling 29-room property (more urban village than hotel) spans the recent history of Palm Springs. It inherited some of its casitas from the 1932 Los Angeles Olympics and housed the US military during the second world war – in training for the North African campaign. Charlie Chaplin kept a little house here and Julius Shulman used to enjoy strolling the amazing grounds and gardens that are dripping with flowering shrubs and lemon trees. Most rooms have fireplaces and kitchenettes, and there are two swimming pools to choose from; it’s also minutes away from Le Vallauris, Palm Springs’ best French restaurant.
• Doubles from $89 B&B, +1 760 320 9346, casacody.com
Palm Springs Rendezvous
In uptown Palm Springs – once a movie star playground and now trendy again with the design crowd – the Rendezvous continues to delight. Originally built in the 1930s as the Mira Loma, and most recently updated in 2008, it’s now firmly situated in a 1950s era aesthetic complete with pink and turquoise colour scheme and mid-century diner style tables and chairs in the communal dining room. A tiled mid-century Bermuda-style roof flanks a courtyard and covers 10 retro-themed rooms, including Marilyn Monroe’s favourite, Pretty in Pink. Movie-star pedigree aside, lately it’s become famous for its foodie flare. Three course breakfasts and a cocktail hour with appies and freshly baked goodies in the evenings make this a delicious destination.
• From $140 B&B, +1 760 320 1178 , palmspringsrendezvous.com
Movie Colony Hotel
Designed by Albert Frey, who studied under Le Corbusier, the 1938 hotel is possibly the best example of preservation meets affordable luxury that Palm Springs has to offer. Benefiting from a 2008 refresh that saw new finishings and furniture in the 16-room property, this hotel carries a considerable history and wears it well. The perfectly preserved late 30s Sinatra Suite – one of the poolside two-storey townhomes where the crooner stayed while his own house was being built on nearby Alejo Drive, also hosted Jim Morrison in the late 1960s, who famously dived from the top floor balcony into the seven-foot deep pool. Complimentary breakfast, happy hour and an in-hotel spa complete the magic.
• Rooms from $105, +1 760 320 6340, moviecolonyhotel.com
Skylark
When Jesse Rhodes, the hotelier responsible for the restoration of San Diego’s Hotel del Coronado, found the once fabulous 1955 Skylark, it was in a sorry state. An hour away from Warner Brothers’ Studios, the one time playground of the stars was a run down flophouse. After a painstaking renovation that saw most of the interiors gutted, it was restored to its mid-century glory last year – right down to the Danish teak furniture in the rooms and the original 9ft-deep swimming pool. The 29-room property with mountain views has a young, friendly vibe, complete with pool parties and DJs on the weekend, but makes for a quiet mid-week getaway. Proximity to the uptown design district is a plus.
• Doubles from $129 B&B, +1 760 322 2267, skylarkps.com
Desert Riviera
Just across the street from the Ace, this 1951 original was designed by Herbert Burns (in between work on the Hideaway and the Orbit In). The 11-room adults-only boutique hotel has an intimate, friendly feel that makes it popular with honeymooning couples and family reunions alike. Communal amenities such as a shared kitchen (in addition to individual kitchenettes in each room), an outdoor gas double grill, as well as free laundry and bike rooms add to the sociable atmosphere. A 2007 refresh saw the kitchens replaced, but the mid-century interiors preserved. Details such as the floating wall clocks with handmade stainless steel digits designed by Burns himself lend a period feel. All day fresh fruit baskets and coffee are on offer, with grocery shops half a mile away, and a free vehicle for evening use.
• Doubles from $129, +1 760 327 5314, desertrivierahotel.com