At the entrance to Zürich's largest cemetery is a large white sign detailing all the things that are not allowed – No Jogging, No Cycling, No Dogs, No Littering, No Beachwear … Sorry, no beachwear? This is not Barcelona or Brighton. Switzerland is a landlocked country in the middle of Europe; Zürich is 200 miles from the sea. It seems highly unlikely that any locals will be wandering round in swimwear, so what's going on? Everything becomes clear once you go down to the nearby lakeshore and see the bodies bobbing around in the water. Welcome to a beach holiday, Swiss style!
With 6% of Europe's fresh water flowing through its rivers and lakes, Switzerland has hundreds of natural pools just waiting to be dipped in. And this really is fresh water. Temperatures fluctuate with the weather but are usually at an acceptably refreshing level; low 20s celsius is the summer norm. And this isn't just a rural pursuit – swimming in Switzerland is very much an urban pastime, too. There's nothing more Swiss than jumping in the water after a hot day at the office, so here's a guide to the best swimming spots in Zürich, Bern and Geneva.
Zürich
The country's largest city has its own lake, but don't just jump in wherever you want (there are rules against that of course – this is Switzerland). Instead, go to a lakeside lido, or Strandbad; you have to pay (typically 7 Swiss francs, about £5.50, for an adult) but it's worth it. There are a few to choose from, but I liked Tiefenbrunnen, the biggest and certainly most popular one. It's huge, with sunbathing lawns, plenty of shade, mountain views and of course acres of lake to splash about. For non-swimmers there's a circular boardwalk built out over the water, with a shallow pool in the middle; the more adventurous can swim out to wooden islands anchored offshore. It's a good way to escape the crowds.
After bathing and sunbathing all afternoon, you can pop to the beach next door and relax with cocktails by the water until midnight. Sounds more like Ibiza than Zürich, doesn't it? But it's not a real beach, it's a summer-only bar called City Beach, complete with palms, decking, sand and a pool right on the lakefront, and right beside Tiefenbrunnen. On hot summer nights, it's the coolest place to be.
My tip Unless you like sunning yourself in your birthday suit, avoid the area labelled FKK. Most Swiss lidos have a nudist section, and Tiefenbrunnen is no exception.
Bern
Swimming in the river is something Londoners can only dream of, but for the Bernese it's an annual must. The River Aare, has crystal-clear water coming straight down from the Alps, making it cooler than a lake, but infinitely more fun. That's because it's not only about cooling off, it's about going with the flow. The river can be fast, so a few strokes every so often are enough for you to be carried along on this liquid travelator. Not only that but you get a great view of the city, set up on a cliff above the river; it's a sightseeing tour like no other.
The best starting point is Marzili, a free riverside lido at the base of parliament hill. I left my things in a pile on the lawns, walked upstream along the shady riverside path for 10-15 minutes, then took the plunge and launched myself in. Getting in is easy, getting out a little trickier. You must swim across the flow towards the bank, grab on to a pole, swing round and up on to the nearest step. Just don't ignore the Last Exit signs. They may seem weird but they're essential: round the bend there's a weir and you really don't want to swim into that.
My tip Bring a small inflatable, like a beach ball or air cushion, to hold on to – then you barely need swim at all, just lie back and float downstream.
Geneva
A swim with a view of a 140m high fountain spurting skywards and grand hotels along the waterfront. I could only be in Geneva, the city that gives urban swimming a bit of chic. Not because it sits at the tip of one of Europe's largest lakes, but thanks to the Bains des Pâquis, the top spot for swimming in Geneva. It isn't that big or that posh, but it's the place to be in summer. It's all about the view, both of the city and your fellow swimmers – this is prime see-and-be-seen territory for everyone, and entry is only about £1.50. This is city swimming with style.
The Bains des Pâquis have been an institution since 1872, though the current art deco incarnation dates from the 30s. What makes them unusual is their location, built on a long breakwater stretching out into the lake. That gives them enough space for some purpose-built pools, sunbathing decks, a cafe and a small beach for lake swimming. When it gets very busy, people overflow on to the rocks of the breakwater, basking in the sun like a herd of sea lions.
My tip Go the whole hog and make a day of it. Have a steam in the on-site hammam (£8) followed by a soothing massage (about £47 for 50 minutes).
The swiss swimming season runs from May to September, outside then the lidos are closed but you are still allowed to swim where there is open access. For full details on where to swim, see the Swiss Tourist Board's special website (sospo.myswitzerland.com), or why not download its free Swimming Weather app? It even tells you the current water temperatures at each site. I love it!
• Diccon Bewes lives in Bern and is the author of Swiss Watching: Inside Europe's Landlocked Island (Nicholas Brealey, £12.99, dicconbewes.com)
