The sun was rising over one side of Jaswant Thada – an ornate royal cremation ground and the perfect panoramic vantage point overlooking Jodhpur – yet the brightest full moon of the year was still lingering in the sky. Identical twins Amit and Asit Goswami greeted the new day joyously with their enchanting sarod and sitar melodies, and those of us who had gathered for this 5.45am start, welcomed the golden glow as it warmed our faces and bare feet, poking out under a sea of uniformly crossed legs. Men executed slow yogic positions at the edge of the crowd; the call to morning prayers entwined with the music. Hot chai was passed round.
Later in the day, we were swept up in the party atmosphere of brilliant Bollywood percussionist Sivamani. His raucous percussion show couldn't have been further away from the peacefulness of the dawn, but it was just as exhilarating. Sivamani was surrounded by his hardcore fans, who were elated by his preposterous rhythms. It felt like being at a "normal" gig. Such contrasting performances, such collisions of old and new India, are typical of the country's newest major music event, the Rajasthan International Folk Festival (Riff), which started in 2007 and attracted 1,800 paying visitors last year.
We were staying at Jodhpur's Umaid Bhawan Palace Hotel, designed by the British architect Edward Lanchester, and constructed between 1929 and 1943. It is one of the world's largest private residences but the former Jodhpur royal family let half of their quarters be converted into a luxury hotel, run by the Taj group. Away from the festival we relaxed in its art deco splendour.
The ancestors of the current maharajah, Gaj Singh II, were great patrons of the arts, and this continues today: the family are keen supporters of Riff. The king, or bapji as he is known by locals, could be spotted at many concerts over the weekend, mingling with festival-goers. Avuncular and charming, he explained to me the history of musicians performing at the royal court. Singh, who was educated in Britain, was a schoolmate of Mick Jagger – the attendance of the Rolling Stones' front man at the 2007 festival caused something of a stir.
Jodhpur is known as the Blue City, because of the blue-painted houses that surround the majestic 500-year-old Mehrangarh Fort, where most of the festival events take place. The fort, one of the largest in India, towers over the town, and the winding, cobbled streets up to its entrance are a tough climb. But it was the ideal venue for the festival, as it has a long history of parties and celebrations, being also a former royal residence. The event kicked off on the Friday night, with a magical set from renowned Bollywood singer Rekha Bhardwaj, collaborating with Rehana Mirza, a local singer of maand music, a variety of Rajasthan folk. As I gazed up at the full moon and impeccably starry sky, the duet sounded utterly haunting, like nothing I've ever heard before.
The moonlight also bathed the audience in a courtyard at the fort. The maharajah and his entourage had front row seats, and it felt more like a concert at Buckingham Palace than your average music festival. As it was Gandhi Day, no alcohol was on sale; everyone sipped cans of soft drinks while eating the spiced, barbecued meats and vegetarian curries from the buffet – a definite upgrade from your average festival fare.
So far, so civilised, but things became more thrilling later on as Dharohar took to a stage within the fort. They captivated the crowd with astounding melodies, establishing themselves as the standout act of the weekend. We were particularly mesmerised by Raies Khan, who plays the Rajasthani morchang (similar to a Jew's harp).
Another number spotlighted Jumma Khan Mewati, an MC, who rapped humorously about modern village life, narrating a story of a young man bickering with his wife, who wants to do things that other women in the village don't, like using a mobile phone.
The group was fronted and co-ordinated by Jason Singh, a charismatic beat-boxer from Manchester, who has worked extensively with Nitin Sawhney. "I've always wanted to give something back to India," he said. "My grandparents left in the 50s and 60s to set up life in England, so I wanted to bring something here."
The festival was established to help ensure the continuation of the region's musical heritage. The vast Thar desert, which takes up much of the state, has been home to many generations of musicians, who perform the songs of the ages on obscure instruments, creating an uplifting sound that contrasts with the harsh surroundings.
To attract both metropolitan Indians and overseas music lovers – as well as those on the travellers' trail – collaborations such as the one between Singh and Dharohar are commissioned to showcase local talent alongside the stars of India's burgeoning classical and popular music genres.
Most performances took place in the early morning or evening, avoiding the heat of the day. We made several early starts to witness sunrise performances, although some young visitors carried on the age-old festival tradition of staying up all night; others slept up at the royal cremation ground, so they could be gently woken by the music. Megna, who was visiting from the neighbouring city of Jaipur, confessed, "I haven't been to sleep, as you can probably see from my eyes."
What was also striking about these dawn devotional concerts was that you didn't need a ticket, so many locals came along to see what the festival was all about. Piyush Soni, a local jewellery maker, said: "Whenever you listen to music you are in heaven, so you must listen to music."
Workshops and smaller events were held during the day at the fort, for those who could hack the heat. And in Jodhpur itself there was plenty to do away from the festivities, particularly if culture or cuisine are your thing. We bought chai, spices and scarves at the Sardar market in the city centre, and sipped lassis at sundown on the rooftop terrace of the Haveli Inn Pal hotel, watching the throngs below. Mehrangarh Fort's museum is unmissable: the paintings and treasures housed there narrate the fascinating history of the region. We were only there for a long weekend but, during a longer stay, guided tours to the desert, neighbouring cities, and temples could be easily arranged.
India has a huge number of events celebrating its musical past and present, but I imagine few are as intimate, authentic and friendly as this. Everywhere we went people wanted to discuss the performances. Hannah, originally from Glasgow but now living in Delhi, went to the first festival three years ago and liked it so much she had returned with friends.
"Any festival being held in such an incredible venue is a complete gift," she said, "and the combination of the Rajasthani music, which is so powerful, passionate and rhythmic, and the guest artists they collaborate with, is very unusual. I haven't seen anything like this in India or anywhere else."
• This article was amended on 22 September 2010. The original referred to a royal burial ground/graveyard. This has been corrected.
• Jodhpur's Rajasthan International Folk Festival takes place on 21-25 October (jodhpurfolkfestival.org). A full festival pass costs about £57, or £43 if booked in advance. A nine-day trip departing from Heathrow on 18 October costs from £1,825 with Bales Worldwide (0845 057 0600, balesworldwide.com/riff). The price includes return flights with Virgin Atlantic, internal flights, accommodation, most meals, sightseeing, transfers and festival tickets. Jet Airways (0808 101 1199, jetairways.com) flies from Heathrow to Jodhpur, changing in Delhi, from around £489 rtn inc tax
