A wildlife walk through Stackpole Estate, Pembrokeshire

A loop around the sumptuous Stackpole national nature reserve in the Pembrokeshire coast national park
  
  

Banded Demoiselle (Calopteryx splendens)
Banded Demoiselle (Calopteryx splendens) Photograph: Alamy Photograph: Alamy

Distance 6 miles (9.7km)
Classification Moderate
Duration 3 hours
Begins Bosherston car park
OS grid reference SR966948

Walk in a nutshell
A loop around the sumptuous Stackpole national nature reserve in the Pembrokeshire coast national park. On the way you'll enjoy the sand dunes of Stackpole Warren, the clifftops of Stackpole Head, Barafundle Bay – routinely voted one of Britain's favourite beaches – the ancient Stackpole Quay and the dream-like Bosherston lily ponds.

Why it's special
If you've never visited the Stackpole Estate before, what have you been doing with your life? It's a visual gem – around every corner there's something aesthetically and maddeningly perfect to be seen. Add to this the otters that live in the rivers and the fact that this is one of very few places in Britain you'll see the joyfully acrobatic chough, and you've got somewhere very special indeed.

Keep your eyes peeled for
The banded demoiselle (pictured), a brilliant metallic blue dragonfly found at Stackpole around the lakes at the start and end of the walk. It's one of 20 species of dragonfly on the estate. The lakes are also where the secretive otters hang out, along with herons and over-wintering wildfowl. Bronze and iron age archaeology has been discovered on Stackpole Warren – see if you can spot the remains of prehistoric plough marks and cattle hoof prints. In summer the meadows at the warren are liberally speckled with multicoloured wildflowers. Further on, Stackpole Head is home to large colonies of seabirds including razorbills, guillemots and choughs with their striking red beaks. Meanwhile, anyone who gazes upon the astonishing displays of waterlilies on Bosherston lily ponds will understand just how the flowers inspired Monet to such great heights of artistry. Walk at dusk and you may well see bats – nine of the UK's 18 bat species live at Stackpole, including greater and lesser horseshoes, conveying their respective degrees of luck.

Recover afterwards
Bosherston's Ye Olde Worlde Cafe with its proprietor the octogenarian Auntie Vi, is an institution not to be missed. Homemade treats and the best cup of tea in Wales await.

If it's tipping down
Pembroke Castle (pembroke-castle.co.uk), the birthplace of Henry VII, will come to the rescue with its seemingly endless tunnels and fabulous exhibitions.

How to get there
From Pembroke railway station, hail the 387 Coastal Cruiser bus.

Step by step

1 Start at Bosherston car park. Walk down to the lakeside and turn left, following paths over two causeways and a low stone bridge (Grassy bridge).

2 Follow the path towards Broad Haven beach. Here you can add a mile on to your walk and explore the secluded Mere Pool Valley. Otherwise, strike left up to the clifftop route.

3 Continue along the coast path.

4 From Stackpole Head follow the coast path down to Barafundle Bay. Cross the beach and walk up a long flight of stone steps to the last stretch of clifftop before Stackpole Quay.

5 Walk through the car park towards a metal field gate. Go through the gate and return inland across fields.

6 Cross the Eight Arch bridge near the site of the former Stackpole Court. Turn left, following the lakeside path down to Grassy bridge, and retrace your footsteps to Bosherston.

 

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