Thousands of tourists shuffle through Rome's Colosseum each summer day, sweating and struggling in the 33C heat. Little do they know that relief is just around the corner – albeit at a price.
The All'Ombra del Colosseo summer festival is sited at the top of the Caelian Hill, a three-minute walk from the Colosseum, and features a bar, restaurant, club, and night concerts. But that's not why most locals have heard of it. They head to All'Ombra for its pièce-de-résistance: the swimming pool.
Since ancient times, Rome has been renowned for its water, which flows easily from fountains both small and monumental, all over the city. (And yes, the water that runs from the nasoni, or little fountains, is perfectly safe to drink). For those looking to cool off, though, those fountains can seem more of a tease than relief. Take the Trevi. As tempting as it might be to dip a toe in, doing so can result in a stiff fine from the police. Meanwhile, outdoor swimming pools are all but unheard of in Rome, particularly in the historic centre.
That makes the pool at All'Ombra del Colosseo a rare find. So rare that you'd expect it to be packed with travellers in search of the offbeat and refreshing. But on a recent, sweltering Sunday, not a tourist was to be seen. Instead, local couples and young families stretched out on chairs and sipped soft drinks or beers, while swimmers splashed and squealed in the cool water.
By early evening, the pool area was emptying out while, upstairs, workers set out the restaurant tables and readied the bar for aperitivo. In other words, the same scene you'd see at any outdoor resort, anywhere in the world. Especially since - despite the festival's name, "In the Shade of the Colosseum" - you can't even see the Colosseum from the pool, thanks to a thick fringe of trees. The pool snacks were predictable and overpriced – €5 fries, €10 caprese salad); the rules predictably Italian: anyone who wants to so much as wade into the pool must wear - and, if they don't own one, purchase for €1.50 - a bathing cap.
Even so, there is something to be said for being able to relax, poolside, on a hill renowned for its ancient ruins. Although archaeologists and conservationists might, quite reasonably, disagree. And for being able to exit, beach tote in hand, while crossing the paths of nuns on their way up to the sixth-century church of San Gregorio Magno al Celio.
At the end of the day, it's just a pool, and a pricey one at that. But you can't beat its location for novelty - or convenience.
• The pool opens from 9am to 6pm until September 4. Use of the pool, a chair, umbrella, and locker rooms costs €14 weekdays (€10 for a half-day from 2pm), €18 weekends (€14 for a half-day). If you add on the use of the Jacuzzi, be prepared to shell out €20 on weekdays and €25 on the weekend. The aperitivo, with buffet, costs another €9. For more information, call + 06 70031701 or visit allombradelcolosseo.it.
