Lux Pod, Kensington, London
by Sally Shalam
Remember that song, Living in a Box? Tonight I'm staying in one. Lux Pod measures only 97 square feet - which may or may not include the raised bed platform.
Owner Judith Abraham is waiting outside the holiday apartment which she has somehow shoehorned into what was once a boxroom on the first floor of a converted house on the Gloucester Road. She and husband Ashley bought it for £29,000 in 2002 when it was reported in a newspaper as being the most expensive cupboard in London. Now, six years, a savvy architect, and £130,000 later, the result is Lux Pod. Their take on high-tech living for tourists is a handy base for traditional London things - Harrods, Harvey Nicks, Hyde Park, the V&A, Natural History and Science Museums. Even the Albert Hall is within walking distance.
Breathe in - this is small. I've stayed on bigger boats. Judith shows me how everything works. Bang & Olufsen phone and telly, Lutron remote-controlled lighting and blinds, Eclipse TD sound system with iPod docking station and sub-woofer. Stainless steel Boffi kitchen (fridge, microwave and grill) whose worktop slides across to reveal a ceramic Miele hob and steel sink, and slots into place once extended to create a table at which you can sit. Oh, and the floor is a bespoke leather one, so could I please place a carpet square provided beneath the chair.
To reach the bed I have to lift a (very) heavy glass and aluminium ladder from its stowage hook and slot it on to the glass-sided bed platform. Saves on time at the gym. Kneeling room only up here, but the wet room, housed off the hall below is surprisingly spacious and has snazzy blue LED lights in the floor and a heated no-mist mirror along one wall. "One couple said that room's like a Porn Palace," Judith says.
Because of the high gizmo quota, she sends out instructions on a pdf with the booking confirmation. I printed off all 12 pages (enough to paper two of the walls), but now I understand why she does it. It's partly to ensure guests get the most out of the wizardry, but also to protect delicate mechanisms such as the electronically controlled Roman blind (which I particularly like playing with) at the only window apart from a skylight at the foot of the bed.
You can also preselect things like drinks for the fridge and bedding (boring old me, I chose plain white instead of the stuff printed with "Love Honour and Obey") and, pre-arrival, comes extensive info on the location and transport links too - really Judith has thought of everything and, once inside, an information folder provides her insider's guide to enjoying this part of town.
Since there isn't room to swing an anorexic cat, as soon as Judith's off, so am I, to the local restaurant recommended in the info folder. I get the feeling Ollins bar and restaurant is her favourite. Just around the corner, in a tiny street I'd never have found otherwise.
Platform sleeping on the Tempur mattress - a sort of memory foam - seems to suit me. I shin "downstairs" at about eight to make tea. Rats, the kettle isn't electric. Before I can get to the hob, I'll have to move the ladder and slide the steel worktop across. Unless I want to do it all in reverse afterwards, tea in bed is not an option.
I feel like a Londoner in this tiny domain, with everything I want on the doorstep and, right now, that's a trip to the new Saatchi Gallery (info folder again), which promises the one thing this place doesn't offer - space.
Best for A weekend culture fix or shopping trip. Ladder climbing skills essential.
• 07595 068 970, theluxpod.com, Single occupancy from £93 per night, double from £109 (two-night minimum stay). Oranges for juicing, tea, coffee, milk, drinks, toiletries included.
Paris B&Bs
by Vicky Baker
Françoise Rousse answers the door with a big welcoming smile. Well, smiles are to be expected given that she is a professional laughter coach and the founder of the French University of Laughter. This weekend, this flame-haired sixtysomething is also my host. She has established her own Parisian B&B, offering her spare bedroom to travellers looking to get a more personal perspective on this vast, enigmatic city.
B&Bs are currently enjoying a resurgence in Paris. For proof, thumb through the newly released Chambres d'Hôtes à Paris, a pictorial guide of the city's 100 best (Hachette, €16). You don't have to be able to read the French text to have your imagination captured by images of Le Bateau Johanna (bateau.johanna.free.fr), a houseboat moored by the Musée d'Orsay, or Chez Bertrand, where the bed is fashioned out of an old 2CV (chezbertrand.com).
According to Jenny Johnson of B&B specialists 2binParis.com, Parisians are signing up to the idea in order to "meet more people and earn a little extra money". The plus points are just as obvious for the tourists: B&Bs offer the chance to tap into some local knowledge and are also a welcome alternative to overpriced tourist hotels.
Françoise's 1930s apartment block is just off a tourist-free road in the eastern suburb of Vincennes. Inside, the homely decor (pictured) is just as cheerful as the owner. Its bijoux dimensions are enhanced by a wall of mirrors and a bouquet of lilies; wooden furniture is painted in primary colours; and my bedroom is pastel purples and greens.
I nearly backed out when 2binParis.com told me I'd be staying in Vincennes, which looked far from central on my map. But it turned out to be just a 15-minute metro ride from the fashionable Marais district, on numerous handy bus routes (the number 29 takes you straight to St Lazare, for shopping at La Fayette), and there is even a Vélib stop so you can use Paris's hugely successful public bike scheme.
But, best of all, Françoise alerts me to the nearby Promenade Plantée, a green-fringed footpath (cyclists and skaters welcome) that follows an old railway line and takes you all the way to the Bastille.
There are some drawbacks to staying in such a small B&B: you are constantly aware that you are a guest in someone's home and you have to stick to a specified arrival time. However, it's certainly a more personal and insightful experience.
As for me, I still have some way to go before I get fully under Paris's skin, but I'd be happy to make my way through the 100 best B&Bs to get there.
Françoise's top tips On Thursday evenings, La Petite Vertu restaurant (15 rue des Verts, 0033 1 48 04 77 09) has live music with singers performing traditional Parisian songs. Dinner costs around €20.
Done all the big museums? Visit the former home of Edith Piaf (rue Crespin du Gast, +1 43 55 52 72, open Mon-Thu afternoons, by appointment only). A selection of memorabilia is housed in a private apartment.
Francoise runs stress-busting laughter sessions in the Jardin du Luxembourg at 11am every Saturday (rire-a-paris.com).
• Françoise's apartment, Courteline, costs €34.22pp per night through 2binParis.com (+1 47 34 01 50). There are around 120 B&Bs on the site, from €35-€100pp pn. Sister company bbitalia.it (0039 06 6878618), has over 4,000 B&Bs across Italy. Eurostar (eurostar.com, 08705 186 186) runs from St Pancras, Ebbsfleet and Ashford to Paris from £59 return.
Riad Kniza, Marrakech
This 11-bedroom hotel is stylish, elegant and tranquil - everything a riad should be - but it is the utterly delightful Mohammed Bouskri that makes the Kniza one of the best hotels in the city. He has been guiding the great and good (Tom Cruise, Bill Clinton et al) around the city for five decades, knows every alleyway and imparts his knowledge with a quiet, authoritative charm. Sitting on the roof terrace, cold glass of wine in hand, listening to him tell his tales of the city, is a great pleasure.
• 00212 24 37 69 42, riadkniza.com; doubles from €176.
The Hughenden, Sydney
Dating back to 1870, the Hughenden was once known as Martha's Boarding House, and is now a slightly eccentric heritage hotel, filled with knick-knacks and period touches by owners Susanne and Elizabeth Gervay. Their aim was to create an "arts" hotel, and there are regular meetings of book clubs, rotating art exhibitions and musical events. The rooms aren't over-stylish but high tea - with Susanne on hand to impart the local news and gossip - should not be missed.
• 0061 2 9363 4863, hughendenhotel.com.au; doubles from around £75.
Jolyon's, Cardiff
Owned by the irrepressible Jolyon himself, this small boutique hotel is made special by the effusive welcome and willingness to try to accommodate any request. The rooms are sleek with quirky touches. But it's in the basement bar, Cwtch, where it all goes on, from breakfasts of Welsh cakes and local sausages, to early evening cocktails on the squishy leather sofas, to pizzas for supper cooked on the wood-burning stove.
• 02920 488775, jolyons.co.uk; doubles from £89.
Beit al-Mamlouka, Damascus
The first of the city's boutique hotels - and still arguably the best. The owner, May Mamarbachi, converted a family home into a gorgeous eight-bedroom hotel, using local fabrics, hand-painted tiles, antiques and furniture. Works by local artists hang on the walls (and are for sale), and the leafy courtyard is an oasis after the hectic city streets - with May on hand to bring tea, delicious sweeties and tips on where to go for the best meze in town.
• 00963 11 543 0045, almamlouka.com; doubles from $150.
La Maison, Rio de Janeiro
La Maison in the residential area of Gavea operates on the hotel-as-home philosophy, with guests treated as friends by the managers, Jacques and Aruza. Although French, they both have a huge passion for Brazil and can help with any aspect of sightseeing, tours, or local information. The five bedrooms are elegant and simple, and the cosy living room and lounge have views of Corcovado and the statue of Christ. Lazy afternoons can be spent in the Arabic tent in the lovely gardens, or by the pool.
• 0055 21 3205 3585, lamaisonario.com; doubles from €160.
Locanda Orseolo, Venice
This is one for the girls: tucked away behind a wrought iron gate, a short walk from San Marco, the rooms are plushly classic and breakfast is fab. But the real selling points are Bruno and Matteo, the two ridiculously handsome brothers who run Orseolo and are utterly charming, endlessly helpful and happy to recommend restaurants, walks, shops and just about any other aspect of the city.
• 0039 041 520 4827, locandaorseolo.com; doubles from €120.
Casa No 7, Seville
The fabulously named Gonzalo del Rio y Gonzales-Gordon creates a delightfully old-school feel at his upmarket guesthouse in the heart of the city. The six tranquil rooms (no TV or radio) are furnished with crisp linens, checked drapes and antique furniture and arranged around a courtyard. Gonzalo, an aristocrat from Jerez, is usually around to share a sherry and his knowledge of Seville in the richly furnished drawing. Breakfast is served by the butler. Of course.
• 0034 95 422 1581, casanumero7.com; doubles from €177.
Home, Buenos Aires
When Patricia and Tom married in Buenos Aires (Patricia grew up there, Tom is English) they were struck that there were no suitable hotels for friends to stay at in the trendy Palermo area. So they opened their own, with 17 rooms, decorated with kitsch floral wallpaper, lots of white walls and vibrantly coloured rugs. The Resto-bar offers up fantastic cocktails and is the place to pick up tips on where to drink, eat and party. Pat and Tom have forged links with some of the hippest addresses in the city and know exactly where to recommend.
• 0054 11 4778 1008, homebuenosaires.com; doubles from €125.
Pensão Avenida, Porto
Right in the heart of Porto, Avenida makes a great base for exploring - with the effusive João Bras on hand with maps, restaurant tips and local knowledge to help you discover the best of the city. The rooms, located on the fifth floor of a 19th-century townhouse, are fairly plain but clean and the breakfast room has a great view across the main square.
• 00351 22 200 9551, pensaoavenida.planetaclix.pt; doubles from €50.
Casa Leto, St Petersburg
A night or two at Casa Leto feels like staying with friends - albeit rather wealthy ones, with impeccable taste and an intimate knowledge of the city. Adriano Leto, an Anglo-Italian filmmaker, and his Russian wife Tatiana opened their five-bedroom hotel with the purpose of offering a warmer welcome and more personal touch than most other St Petersburg hotels. The elegant, high-ceilinged rooms feel very pre-revolution and the location, just a few steps from the Hermitage, is unbeatable.
• 007 812 600 1096, casaleto.com; doubles from €155.
Bibi's Garden, New York
If you're happy to stay out of Manhattan, you can have a real New York experience without having to mortgage your house. Bibi's Garden in Brooklyn feels like a family home - mostly because that's exactly what it is, with Harry and Bibi on hand to dish out tea and cake whenever required, lavish breakfasts and all the local advice you could want. It strays towards the chintzy, but that's all part of the charm, and sitting on the veranda, eating muffins and drinking coffee is about as NYC as it gets.
• 001 718 434 3119, bibisgarden.net; doubles from $95.
Devra, Udaipur
Durga and Jyoti run Devra with the kind of slick hand you'd expect from an ex-military man and an events organiser. It's Jyoti who's normally on hand to suggest and arrange sightseeing trips, mix a lassi or just sit and talk about Udaipur and India in general. There are just four rooms, with polished-wood furniture, crisp white bedding, mosaic floors and homely touches such as family photographs. The absence of televisions or phones helps to give Devra a real sense of escape from the bustle of the city.
• 0091 294 243 1049, devraudaipur.com; doubles from £35.
Villa Ragusa, Dubrovnik
Croatians love to talk, and the manager of Villa Ragusa - Pero Carevic - is no exception; if you like an energetic discussion on the roots of the Balkan conflict over breakfast, this is your place. He is great fun, and knows the hidden bars and cafes that lie tucked away in Dubrovnik's maze of cobbled streets. The house, with five simple rooms and exposed beams, dates back 600 years and lies in the heart of the old town. Ask for a room on the top floor to make the most of the rooftop views.
• 00385 20 453 834, villaragusa.netfirms.com; doubles from €50.
Villa Surprise, Cape Town
The charming Rolf aims to make anyone feel right at home in his six-room guesthouse; he can offer a warm welcome in German, Italian and French as well as English. Just two minutes from the glorious beach at Camps Bay, polished wooden floors, crisp white linen, and the odd quirky touch such as old-fashioned movie cameras and statues give the place an original feel. There is a small pool and well-kept garden, and Rolf has the lowdown on the city's hippest hangouts.
• 0027 21 438 2729, villasurprise.co.za; doubles from £30.
Robinsons in the City, Melbourne
It may call itself Melbourne's smallest hotel, but with just six rooms Robinsons is more of a B&B - although the welcome from manager-cum-breakfast chef-cum-concierge Paul Humphreys is five star. He lives on site and is always available to give tips on Melbourne's coolest eateries, shops and bars. This is a sociable place - people tend to get chatting in the cosy lounge, and it almost has the feel of a (very) upmarket hostel. A great way to be absorbed into the laid-back Aussie way of life.
• 0061 3 9329 2552, robinsonsinthecity.com.au; doubles from £68.
Carruth House, Boston
Heidi runs the historic Carruth House with the kind of warmth that makes it feel like staying in her home. Dating back to 1877, the house now has three double rooms and a large suite, and after slogging round the city streets you can laze on the porch or in the double hammock in the garden. Heidi is on hand to recommend the best spot for brunch in town, or a good sightseeing tour, and the muffins and scones that are available for breakfast - or any time during the day - are legendary.
• 001 617 436 8260, carruthhouse.us; doubles from $95.
Baldassini, Rome
Francesco's welcome really sets the Baldassini apart; his English is impressive as is the time he's willing to spend with guests, talking through the best way to experience his beloved Rome (he's particularly strong on gelati). And the location is right at the heart of things. Rooms are simply furnished and all en suite, and breakfast is served at whatever time you like, in your room.
• 0039 06 6228 9381, baldassinibeb.it; doubles from €70.
Riviera 281, Naples
Elena lives in the downstairs of this elegant palazzo, which overlooks the waterfront, while the three rooms are on the third floor and above. Neapolitan by birth, she is the fount of all knowledge when it comes to little-known restaurants, cafes frequented only by locals and the best walking routes around the city's labyrinthine streets. Funky rooms are all cream walls, bold splashes of art, light and airy and some have terraces with great views over the city's rooftops. Take breakfast on the elegant terrace before plunging into the madness of Naples.
• 0039 081 764 1427, riviera281.it; doubles from €130.
