A walk with views across Heddon Valley to Woody Bay, Devon

The route follows a historic 19th‑century carriageway and a section of the South West Coast Path along some of the highest and most dramatic cliffs in England
  
  

Overhead of coastline, Woody Bay
Overhead of coastline, Woody Bay Photograph: Alamy Photograph: Alamy

Distance 6 miles (9.6km)
Classification Moderate
Duration 2 hours 30 minutes
Begins National Trust gift shop
OS grid reference SS655480

Walk in a nutshell
The route follows a historic 19th‑century carriageway and a section of the South West Coast Path along some of the highest and most dramatic cliffs in England. Along the way you'll take in a Roman fortlet and ancient sessile oak woodland. Go in spring or summer and witness the cliffs alive with sea birds.

Why it's special
This is a corner of England so completely hidden away that during the second world war a German U-boat commander often allowed his crew to go ashore at Heddon's Mouth for some rest and relaxation. However, as far as we know, they never got to climb the cliffs and enjoy the astonishing views that walkers on this route see along the coast and across to Wales.

Keep your eyes peeled for
The Carriageway – a Victorian folly, albeit an unwitting one. In 1885 one "Colonel" Benjamin Lake developed grand plans to make Woody Bay into a premier tourist destination. By 1899 he had built a pier so that steamers full of wealthy holidaymakers could dock, and a carriageway to convey them to the Hunter's Inn. A year later, unfortunately (or fortunately, depending on your point of view), he was declared bankrupt and his plans were dashed. Much earlier, the Romans built and garrisoned Martinhoe fortlet which overlooked Heddon's Mouth. In 1960 archaeologists unearthed a plate inscribed with the name of a soldier called Silvanus, along with ceramics, cooking pots and a coin from the reign of Emperor Nero. Look out along the cliffs, meanwhile, and you may see guillemots, razorbills, manx shearwaters, black-backed gulls, kittiwakes and fulmars.

Recover afterwards
With the help of a locally brewed ale at the Hunter's Inn, one of the most beautifully situated pubs in the country.

If it's tipping down
Take a ride on the Lynton & Barnstaple Railway whose tiny steam engines run from Woody Bay station to Killington Lane.

How to get there
There's no public transport to Heddon valley. The nearest railway station is in Barnstaple.

Step by step

1 With the National Trust shop on your right, walk down the road towards the Hunter's Inn. At the junction turn right, and then left along the bridleway by the side of the inn. At the fork take the footpath to your right signposted "Woody Bay 2¾ miles". You are now walking through Road Wood along a wide track known as the Carriageway.

2 Carry on straight up and along the Carriageway as it climbs around the headland above Heddon's Mouth and Highveer Rocks.

3 Follow the track towards Woody Bay, with Valley of the Rocks, Lynmouth Bay and Foreland Point stretching out before you. Above Hollow Brook Combe the path is flanked by sessile oaks and rare whitebeams.

4 Pass through the gate, into West Woody Bay Wood.

5 Stay straight on the Carriageway to where it meets the road on a sharp hairpin bend. Turn left and follow the road down the hill, past a small National Trust car park. Just past the car park turn left down a road shown as a dead end that leads to Woody Bay.

6 On a very sharp right-hand bend in the road look for the South West Coast Path on your left, signposted "Coastpath Hunter's Inn". This is the path you will stay on all the way back to your start point. Follow the steep incline up the side of the cliff and pass through the gate into a woodland of sessile oaks.

7 Carry on up the side of the combe to Great Burland Rocks and follow the footpath to where it turns back upthe Heddon Valley along the side ofthe combe.

8 Carry on down the hill, across some scree, where you will meet a footpath to the right signposted to the beach. Turn left along the South West Coast Path signposted "½ mile to Hunter's Inn", follow the signposts back to the Hunter's Inn.

 

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