Molly Hannon 

The foodie traveller in … Fez, Morocco

Morocco’s third city will play host this winter to a talented chef/sommelier duo from the Paris Popup, who will add their own twist to traditional cuisine and ingredients
  
  

Spice market, Fez
Spice market, Fez. Photograph: Douglas Pearson/Rex Features Photograph: Douglas Pearson/Rex Features

If you’re in Fez in the next three months, you’ll be in for a tasty treat if you can score a reservation at Restaurant Numero 7, in the heart of the medina. That’s because this restaurant also functions as a place where international chefs can take a culinary sabbatical and discover Moroccan gastronomy. The invited chefs spend time browsing markets and local produce before reinterpreting Moroccan dishes for diners at the restaurant, in a traditional medina house with contemporary decor.

From next weekend, foodie duo Harry Cummins and Laura Vidal of The Paris Popup will be at the helm. Cummins, a British-born chef, and Vidal, who’s from Montreal and is a well-known sommelier in Paris, met while working at Gregory Marchand’s Paris restaurant, Frenchies. With a mutual love for travel and culinary discovery, they founded Paris Popup last year and have since left their mark on almost every continent, sourcing local products, speaking with producers and putting their new-found knowledge to use in pop-up kitchens.

In Kyoto they found a variety of green tea, hojicha, that tastes like red Burgundy, and paired it with sake soaked in sherry casks and seafood from the local markets.

So what will be on the table in Fez? It’s all about surprise and market finds, but Vidal hopes to experiment with Moroccan herbs and spices to make new vermouths, while Cummins’s talents could reveal a new slant on the tagine or the pastilla cinnamon-coated meat pie – and all will be washed down with the best Moroccan wines.

15 Nov-31 Jan 2015. Four courses from €30, theparispopup.com

 

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