Lerags House, a square, granite Georgian house framed by a magnolia tree and some magnificent fuchsias, lies close to Loch Feochan, a sea loch three or four miles from Oban. It isn't quite a restaurant with rooms, but neither is it a B&B. Guests stay on a half-board basis, with a set three-course dinner cooked each night by Bella Miller, who bought Lerags House with husband Charlie, a former racing yacht sail-maker, in 2001. What adds extra curiosity value is that they are Australians who, having stopped off on their travels to work in Oban, decided to stay on.
An old china button set into the hall wall says "Press", which I am, so I do. Bella appears from the rear of the hallway, extends a hand in greeting, and shows D and me up to our twin room. I suspect this is less well-situated than the doubles, overlooking a bit of garden but also a tank for oil or gas. The windowless bathroom is a bit outdated but the bedroom is very modern and fresh with tasteful accents of colour – lemon and turquoise Johnstons of Elgin blankets, lime green knitted cushions – and good mattresses. All the essentials are here, in aesthetic arrangement, so, time to focus on the raison d'être of this place – food.
Changed for dinner, we spot tonight's handwritten set menu displayed in the hall. If you cannot handle a lack of choice, Lerags House won't suit. On the other hand, it might come as a relief to have the choice made for you.
Seared local hand-dived scallops with lightly spiced carrot relish, it says. Then, twice-cooked Gressingham duck in mulled wine, with gnocchi and sautéed greens. The only choice offered is in the final course – either pears poached in red wine with cinnamon cream or Cambus O'May cheddar, quince paste and oatcakes. So pears for D and cheese for me.
If the kitchen is Bella's domain, front of house is Charlie's. He ferries in drinks, chatting to the couples who come down to settle on pale sofas in the sitting room.
"Life's too short to drink bad wine," it says on the drinks list which, not surprisingly, favours wines from the Hunter and Yarra valleys plus a good smattering of single malts.
Charlie waits the tables too; when we cross the hall to the dining room (at a time picked by us – so we never feel as though we are being herded).
We love dinner – presentation, flavours, the relaxed, chatty nature of the dining room – though despite giving the (very generous) portion of scallops my best shot, I still don't get them.
"Tonight they are orange and rose," says Bella, bringing out hand-made chocolates with the coffees (after our delicious desserts).
In the morning, over coffee and OJ that doesn't taste freshly squeezed, neighbouring tables are swapping plans for the day while gazing out at a blue sky and the glittering water in the distance.
We work our way through a magnificent buffet selection which includes homemade yogurt, stewed rhubarb and fig compote, and follow it with dry cured Ayrshire bacon, MacLeods of Stornoway black pudding and pan-fried tomatoes in olive oil, sea salt and black pepper.
One couple who were about to take an expensive cruise around Scotland hated Lerags House and checked out early, Bella tells us, when we are leaving. But we think there is something really nice about being cooked for, cocooned in Charlie and Bella's rather wonderful house, where there are no staff, just two thoughtful hosts.
• Scotrail (0845 601 5929, scotrail.co.uk) is running a direct service from Edinburgh to Oban every Sunday until 29 August; day-return tickets from £30, call to reserve a bike space
