"Five years ago you wouldn't admit you lived in Inglewood," says Lindsay "Coco" Hames, frontwoman of the Ettes, an American garage band that has made the wide, leafy streets of this Nashville area their base. "It was far too north. We moved here because it was cheaper, but now there's a vibrant, creative community and lots of good things happening."

This is down in some part to the Ettes themselves, who last year opened Fond Object: a mix of thrift/vintage shop, record store/label, designer boutique and – no joke – a petting zoo. "We had this weirdo dream while we were touring to open a crazy compound and do everything we love doing," says Jem Cohen, the band's guitarist.

Fond Object is in Riverside Village – a cluster of independently owned businesses just off Gallatin Pike, a former no-man's land which is now being regenerated. Inside, there's a feast of retro treasures, such as old record players, quirky light fittings and antique furniture.

Within the multifunctional space, you'll find Maria "Poni" Silver – the Ettes's drummer – sitting behind a sewing machine crafting bespoke dresses, a record shop selling vintage Four Tops records for a couple of bucks (or rare Serge Gainsbourgs for a bit more) and out the back are Dotty the pig, tabby cat Fabien and two Swiss dairy goats. There's also a rickety, weatherboarded dwelling (a disused meth house) that the band uses as a live music venue, inviting local and international bands to play.

Up the road is El Jaliciense (3225 Gallatin Pike), a rustic taquería and market that sells some of Nashville's cheapest, most authentic Mexican food. Try the shrimp tacos and a glass of house-made horchata. "I don't even eat shrimp, but I make an exception for this place," says Jem.

In the evening, head to Foobar, a dingy dive bar where you can still smoke (Tennessee is one of the few states where this is still legal, though most places don't allow it) and a hub for the town's music crowd.

Any whiff of a hangover can be remedied with brunch at Cafe Fundamental, a newly opened spot where trendy East Nashville meets Inglewood. Here a delicious plate of Tennessee eggs (with cream, gruyère cheese and cinnamon walnut toast) will set you back just $6.25.