Address: St Mary's, Isles of Scilly TR21 0JA.

Tel: 01720 422317.

Website: starcastlescilly.demon.co.uk.

First impressions: Hogging the best views on the island, this 16th-century star-shaped castle was built to keep a watchful eye out for the Spanish Armada. Now, it's more welcoming to arriving strangers, and is an instantly friendly place. There are 12 rooms housed within the castle's solid granite walls, with more recent additions in the garden clustered around a glasshouse swimming pool.

What are the rooms like? There are solid beams and dark oak furniture, but with plenty of mod cons, too. Some have sublime views over the other islands.

The bed test: Possibly a four-poster in a previous incarnation, the bed was large, soft, and bulging with plump pillows.

The bathroom: Modern, with an immaculately behaved shower, Bronnley toiletries and heated towel rails.

The restaurant: A choice of two. Traditionalists, game for a spot of guinea fowl or pheasant, can dine in the Castle restaurant, while fish-lovers should head to the airy conservatory for more contemporary creations. There's no à la carte menu, but a set five-course meal costs £29.50.

The bar: In a former dungeon, crammed with nautical memorabilia rather than prisoners.

What's there to do nearby? St Mary's has some lovely walks and great beaches, but most come to the Scillies to island-hop. Choose from Tresco's famous gardens or a spot of seal- or puffin-watching around the smaller islands. The hotel owner mingles with guests at breakfastand can provide information on daily boat-trips.

How much? £65-£94pp for a double room in the castle on a half-board basis.