Built in 1890 for a Manchester businessman, Langdale Chase must have been one hell of a private house. Originally intended as 'a small retreat' it took five years to complete, was the first house in the area to have electricity, and occupies a stunning site on the very edge of Windermere. Its six-acre terraced gardens, landscaped by Thomas Mawson (who often worked with Gertrude Jekyll and designed the Hill gardens for Lord Leverhulme in Hampstead), drop down to the waterside which has a jetty and boathouse.
There are 28 bedrooms - some in an annexe across the courtyard. We had room 1 on the first floor, which was huge, with beautiful views over the lake and a stained-glass window in the bathroom, and which had a turret corner with sofa, chairs, table and a television. This was great for a lazy breakfast with the papers surveying the alarming weather pattern out of the huge casement windows.
The breakfasts can be stacked in favour of a day's walking (porridge of cereal, gorgeous scrambled eggs, bacon, local sausages, masses of croissants and coffee).
We loved it because the bathroom was huge and warm with good white towels, and the bed was super king-sized (although the pillows were rather lumpy). It also had the most brilliant antique cast-iron radiators with brass tops, made by Wilsons of Manchester and presumably part of the original installations.
The only space where the hotel does suffer a crisis of identity is the dining-room, which is probably inevitable given the requirements of feeding a large number of people. This has very curious frilly panelling, cane furniture and rather intrusive piped music (film themes was one). That having been said, the food is to be highly recommended. Dinner is a set £30 (including Vat) for three courses and the menu is interesting with an emphasis on local produce - pheasant, lamb, venison - and some terrific fish.
We had halibut on a bed of crispy vegetables with a pea sauce topped with cabbage cooked as crispy Chinese seaweed. Sauces are interesting, presentation wonderful and the chef, Wendy Lindars, has also selected a stunning cheeseboard of English cheeses. Lunch is £14.95 for three courses, or they will make up a packed lunch for you.
Best of all, Langdale Chase allows dogs (although not in the public rooms, which is perfectly fair) and, for us, that was one of the points of walking all day. Fin, our unruly Border/Lakeland cross, had never visited the land that is half her heritage, but swam happily in freezing Grasmere and charged up fells. The helpful and charming staff gamely welcomed her grubby return and she slept blissfully next to the antique radiator in our room.
The hotel's atmosphere is very relaxed. Everyone is helpful and chatty, with recommendations of walks, visits, places. One lovely waitress, Dot, 83, considers herself far too young to retire and walks the fells to keep fit. It's not hard to see why this was Cumbria's hotel of the year last year.
· Langdale Chase Hotel, Windermere, Lake District, Cumbria (01539 432201) £170-£300, including breakfast.
