This is the only walk in Pembrokeshire combining ancient oak woodland and estuary. Lawrenny is one of the few fragments of this type of woodland that survive here. In summer it is full of birdsong, but in winter you get splendid views of the river through the gnarled and twisted oak trees, now devoid of leaves. All the ancient oak woodland understorey plants are here: heather, bilberry, woodrush and honeysuckle, together with rowan, holly and – below the footpath, which clings to the bank – the rare wild service tree. In winter you may have to look for its leaves among the leaf litter.
From point 3 you look down on Garron Pill, a sheltered creek which is a great place to look for estuary birds in winter – wigeon and teal, greenshank and little egret. At 4 you descend on to the shore. This is my favourite section of the walk in winter – the calls of curlew and redshank, the chance of a buzzard or peregrine overhead.
The walk begins and ends at Lawrenny Quay and yacht station – in summer the boats are in the water, in winter on their trailers in the yard. The return leg brings you through the pretty and well-preserved village, and the Lawrenny Arms hotel is a welcoming pub serving good bar food.
Wear stout walking boots – the footpath and foreshore can be slippery in wet weather – and bring binoculars for the bird life.
• Find out more at nationaltrust.org.uk/walks
Route and directions
Start: Lawrenny Quay. Grid ref: SN015065. Map: OS Landranger 157 & Outdoor Leisure. Map 36.
1. From Lawrenny Quay turn left, passing the Quayside Tearoom on your left. Follow footpath signs through the boat yard and into the trees, passing the caravan site on your right. Cross a National Trust stile into the ancient woodland. The path threads through the gnarled oak trees, with glimpses down to the river below.
2. In spring see if you can spot or hear the redstart, a bird which breeds in old oak woodlands. A few small, scattered wild service trees grow in the shrub layer below the path, indicating that this is ancient woodland.
3. The path swings to the right, passing a Scout hut. The point at the corner of the wood is a good place to scan the mudflats opposite. The village of Llangwm can be seen across the river to the north-west.
4. After 500m the path descends to the shore of Garron Pill and continues along the high tide line. Ancient oak trees, their roots partly undercut by the tide, overhang the shore. At low tide deep channels in the mud are used by feeding shorebirds.
5. Joining the road, walk uphill towards Lawrenny village. Pass a youth hostel on your right before descending to the centre of the village and the church.
6. Bear right through the village to rejoin the road to Lawrenny Quay. Alternative route: A footpath across the field below the church and site of Lawrenny Castle is signposted from point 6. Beyond the castle site (with fine views across the estuary) the path enters National Trust woodland and descends to the road near the hotel.
7. Look across the mudflats (or water, depending on the state of the tide) to West Williamston in the east. Here a system of narrow rocky creeks, which were once quarried for limestone, give way to saltmarsh and mudflats. The estuary is rich in wildfowl and shorebirds and in autumn you may even glimpse the occasional osprey hunting for grey mullet.
8. With woodland either side of the road once more, now mixed broadleaf, return to Lawrenny Quay.
Terrain and accessibility
Three miles/ by both routes. Varied terrain; narrow woodland path, firm upper shore (can be slippery/muddy), road. High tide alternative route at Garron Pill. Dogs welcome; please clear up after your dog and keep them under control at all times.
Getting there and facilities
Train: Tenby 12 miles
Foot: Landsker Borderland Trail runs along the walk route and joins the Pembrokeshire Coast Path ¾ mile from the start of the walk route
Bus: limited seasonal services only. Bloomfield Walkers Bus, Tuesdays and Fridays only, not yet in operation. Go to pembrokeshire.gov.uk
Bike: from A4075, follow back roads from Whitehill (SM054048) or Cresselly (SM064063), via Cresswell Quay
Road/Car: as cycling
WC and tea-room at Lawrenny Quay