Hotel Geneve

Opened in 1907, this design classic recalls the opulence of turn-of-the-20th-century Mexico City. Replete with overstuffed furniture, oil paintings, and stained-glass ceilings, the lobby (which also doubles as a small museum) is remarkably well preserved, as is the adjoining atrium restaurant – filled with leafy plants and singing birds. Small, carpeted guestrooms show their age more readily than the common areas, with many boasting furnishings from when the hotel opened. Yet the rooms are well-priced, considering their history and the hotel has a fantastic location in the heart of the Zona Rosa. Though not as upscale as it was, this pretty neighbourhood is central, safe, and a major shopping and nightlife destination.
• Doubles from £72, +52 55 50 800 800, hotelgeneve.com.mx

Hotel Catedral

The heart-of-it-all location, just a block from Mexico City’s central plaza, is what most recommends the perennially popular Hotel Catedral, but this amiable spot is also fantastic value, with attractive, modern rooms kept immaculate by the friendly housekeepers – and equipped with air-conditioning, filtered water, and Wi-Fi. Some rooms have balconies and, better yet, views of the surrounding Centro Histórico. For the best vista, request a room on a higher floor overlooking the back of the city’s Metropolitan Cathedral, or simply have a drink on the top-floor roof deck.
• Doubles from £38, +52 55 5518 5232, hotelcatedral.com

Downtown Mexico and Downtown Beds

The ultra-chic, design-centric hoteliers behind the Habita and CondesaDF hotels recently opened Downtown Mexico, an upscale guesthouse in a 17th-century palace. Well-chosen furnishings highlight the high ceilings and original architectural details in each of the guestrooms, and though there’s no lobby, the onsite shops and restaurants make the Downtown a destination in itself. It’s worth a splurge to stay there, though savvy backpackers will head straight to the smartly designed hostel, Downtown Beds, on the ground floor of the same building. This is not your average dorm-style accommodation: there’s a funky-cool aesthetic throughout the bedrooms, shared baths, and common areas, which include a patio bar and screening room. And guests at either establishment have access to the rooftop pool and lounge.
• Downtown Mexico: doubles from £105, +52 55 5130 6830, downtownmexico.com. Downtown Beds: dorm beds from £10, private doubles £28 B&B +52 55 5282 2199, downtownbeds.com

El Patio 77

In recent years, the rough-around-the-edges San Rafael neighbourhood has experienced a modest renaissance as young people, and galleries, move into the area’s neglected 19th-century buildings. Here, amid car-repair shops and funky old coffee joints, you’ll find the endearing, eco-friendly B&B, El Patio 77. It is in a beautifully restored mansion and has four suites with soaring ceilings, French windows, and light-filled bathrooms, tastefully decorated with craft and antiques. To save a few pesos, there are four equally charming and reasonably-priced rooms with shared bathroom. All rooms include a fresh-made breakfast in the breakfast room and gallery, where you’re likely to find yourself chatting with the hotel’s friendly owners.
• Doubles with shared bath from £56 B&B, suites from £71 B&B, +52 55 5592 8452, elpatio77.com

Casa de los Amigos

To see a different side of Mexico City, stay at Casa de los Amigos; it’s a Quaker-run nonprofit organisation and guesthouse that rents small private rooms and dorm beds by the night. Among other social activities, Casa de los Amigos does important work housing political refugees from around the world, so you may end up bunking with someone who has just come to Mexico from far away. Guests often get involved in projects at the house, or glean valuable city tips from the long-term volunteers, who also live onsite. There’s a cosy shared kitchen that serves as an informal gathering spot, as well as a pretty, light-filled library, which is used for reading and weekly Quaker meetings.
• Dorm beds £5, private doubles from £19 (suggested donation), +52 55 5705 0521, casadelosamigos.org

Hotel Imperial Reforma

One of Mexico City’s central arteries, the Paseo de la Reforma is a monument-studded boulevard lined with banks, embassies, high-rise office buildings, and luxury hotels. Originally designed at the end of the 19th century, the avenue hasn’t lost its grand appeal, even if it’s now plagued by traffic. You can get a sense of the old grandeur at the Hotel Imperial Reforma, one of the most unique buildings on the avenue: its white, wedge-shaped facade and brass dome overlooking the bustle below. Long in operation, today it is a comfortable and well-located mid-range hotel, with dated yet surprisingly spacious guestrooms, many with desks and sitting areas.
• Doubles from £56, +52 55 5705 4911, hotelimperial.mx

The Red Tree House

You could almost imagine your life as a Mexico City local while staying at the Red Tree House, a warm B&B in a 1930s-era home in the Condesa district, one of the capital’s most charming residential neighbourhoods. Here, it’s easy to make yourself comfortable in the sweet, slightly whimsical bedrooms that open onto a serene, tree-filled courtyard. Friendliness and hospitality are the Red Tree House’s hallmark: The staff make an effort to connect with their guests, while visitors frequently gather to chat over home-cooked breakfasts (included in the nightly price) or during complimentary wine service in the evenings.
• Doubles from £79 B&B, +52 55 5584 3829, theredtreehouse.com

Hotel Isabel

With five rambling floors of intriguing, creaky guestrooms, Hotel Isabel has long been a favourite with budget travellers looking to make their pesos stretch without sacrificing a bit of old Mexican character. Rooms in this long-running establishment vary tremendously in size, furnishings, and comfort: some are spacious with draped windows and balconies; others are smaller, with interior windows and single beds (if the hotel isn’t full, ask to see a few options when you check in). The service is bare bones but you’ll want to spend most of your time outside anyway. Right in the heart of the Centro Histórico, Isabel is a perfect jumping-off point to explore Mexico City’s oldest neighbourhood.
• Doubles from £24 B&B, +52 55 5518 1213, hotel-isabel.com.mx

Hotel Milán

Step outside the Hotel Milan and you’ll encounter literary types browsing fiction and philosophy at El Péndulo bookshop to your left, while a hip crowd convenes at cocktail bar Limantour to your right. The hotel is on one of the most happening blocks on one of the most happening streets in the city. Inside, however, the hotel is pleasantly removed from the bustle, with recently renovated rooms that are small, clean, and modern. Some face the interior courtyard, while other, more atmospheric (though also noisier) rooms overlook Alvaro Obregon Avenue.
• Doubles from £33 B&B, +52 55 5584 0222, hotelmilan.com.mx

Stanza Hotel

This comfortable hotel on the Roma district’s main shopping and nightlife corridor is a step up from the many budget options in the area: there are wall-mounted flatscreen TVs, writing desks, and large bathrooms in all of the surprisingly spacious guestrooms, plus laundry service, Wi-Fi, plus a bar and restaurant. Don’t expect a contemporary look – carpeted accommodation has dark, oversized wooden furniture and retro bedspreads – but comfort comes in spades for the price. Not to mention, the choice Roma location is perfect for foodies coming to explore the city’s diverse dining scene.
• Doubles from £46 B&B, +52 55 5208 0052, stanzahotel.com

All prices include taxes

Julie Doherty Meade is the author of Moon Mexico City and Moon Metro New York City