This time four years ago at the opening Ashes Test in Brisbane, I was tempted to follow the trajectory of Steve Harmison's ludicrously wayward first delivery – and just keep going, all the way out of The Gabba stadium. As I closed my eyes in disbelief, I pictured a stretch of beach a hundred miles up the Sunshine Coast of Queensland. When I opened them again, all I could see was four ocker Aussies in the seats in front of me spraying beer around in sarcastic celebration. It was only 10.01am and it was all over.

I wanted out – but not because I don't like Brisbane. I do. I like the soupy warm embrace its subtropical climate extends to a wintery Pom. I like the unpretentious Queensland pubs, the villagey neighbourhoods, the Moreton Bay Bugs, and the pies. I like it all the more because it has laboured with the uncool underdog tag for so long in comparison with Sydney and Melbourne. "Brisbane is so sleepy, so slatternly, so sprawlingly unlovely… It is simply the most ordinary place in the world," said author David Malouf in his semi-autobiographical novel Johnno. And he's one of their own.

That said, I wouldn't go as far as the Sydney Morning Herald writer who in a recent report grudgingly staked Brisbane's claim to "cool", referring to it as "Brisvegas". Then he got a bit carried away: "I go back there and it's like turning up at a wedding and realising that your boring ex has morphed into an intelligent, urbane supermodel."

But I like it. Except when England play cricket there and are routinely beaten. The upside to that, of course, is that it gives you more time to explore other avenues.

Streets Beach

Not beyond Brisbane, I know, but it's such an exotic concept for a so-called "provincial backwater", it might as well be. As you drift away from The Gabba(ttoir) and walk down Vulture Street (preferably rockin' out to native band Powderfinger's eponymous album), you'll eventually come to the splendidly lush South Bank Parklands and… a beach. Well, almost. The aptly-named Streets Beach is a man-made urban oasis that banks the Brisbane River and stretches lazily out beneath the slick glass and steel skyscrapers of the Central Business District. Complete with palm trees, a lagoon, and the iconic Australian lifeguard tower, it's pretty convincing. But what I love about it – and why I tip my hat to the city's planning department – is that Australia is a country in which roughly eight out of 10 people live within 50km of the beach. Brisbane, in particular, is spoilt for choice for littoral lounging, sandwiched as it is between the Sunshine Coast and the Gold Coast, and with the world's third largest sand island, Moreton Island, just offshore. Despite this, they felt the need to build another one for good measure – more slackers' paradise than Surfers Paradise.

Noosa Heads

For the real thing, drive up to Noosa Heads – a laid-back but exclusive little town only a couple of hours up the Sunshine Coast. It encapsulates everything that Australians hold dear: good, clean beach fun and a main drag that offers plenty of opportunity for casual but quality al fresco dining. Places like Berardos and Bistro C serve top drawer tucker, such as succulent Moreton Bay Bugs, Coffin Bay oysters with sweet chilli, and Hervey Bay scallops. They share Hastings Street with high end galleries and clothes shops with names such as Pearls for Girls, but also with that all-Aussie staple, the surf shop. Because this is where modern-day Noosa really began – out the back of a camper van.

In his book The Noosa Heads Affair, Mike Davis describes how the town – sandwiched between the base of an old growth rainforest and the Pacific Ocean, and surrounded by rivers and lakes offering cool relief in the intensely hot Queensland summers – has changed from being a sacred and spiritual place since "The Dreaming", to a logging station in the late 19th century, to a surfers' paradise by the 1960s. Since the 60s – when there was only a single dirt road in with a caravan and camping site for the surfers at the end of it – it has become an upmarket version of the Australian dream.

• You can rent holiday apartments on the Noosa beachfront from Au$1,260 (£778) a week at rwnoosaholidays.com.au

Australia Zoo

The late Steve Irwin's zoo on the Sunshine Coast celebrates its 40th anniversary this year and was the winner of best tourist attraction at last year's Qantas Australian Tourism Awards. One of the most popular sights in Australia, this is a slice of kitsch Australiana – it's off the Bruce Highway for a start, where there are road signs with a cut-out of Irwin holding a croc and the words "Crikey" pointing the way. Whatever you may think of the controversial Crocodile Hunter and zoos in general, it's an opportunity to see native animals – and even feed them – in an expansive and sunny environment, which makes a change from looking at giraffes trying to keep their necks warm in London Zoo. Plans to open an outdoor safari experience are in the pipeline.

• Australia Zoo, 1638 Steve Irwin Way, Beerwah, Queensland, australiazoo.com.au. Adults Au$58 (£35.80), children Au$34 (£21)

Yatala Pies

Another slice of classic Australiana. Yatala is an out-of-the-way suburb, off the Pacific Highway – but it is a landmark for generations of drivers on their way from Brisbane to the Gold Coast. It's a pretty unprepossessing spot and therefore the perfect place to champion the humble but iconic Aussie pie, much in the same way that Eccles does for the cake. You can't miss the pie shop because there's a huge pie in the sky to point the way, and there are always long queues. Despite this, and despite them serving up their no-nonsense fillers for 130 years - using traditional ceramic ovens to cook them - there have been rumblings of late on internet forums and review sites that Yatala has gotten a bit fat and complacent on the back of its success (it sells around 1.5 million pies a year) and that its pies are getting a bit sloppy. But I'm not looking for hand-massaged Kobe beef in my pie – just a good firm crust, with a nice plump filling of steak and kidney in just the right amount of liquor. Serve it up with a helping of mash, peas and gravy, and I'll be back.

• 40 Old Pacific Hwy, Beenleigh 4207, Queensland, yatalapies.com.au. Steak and kidney pies start at Au$4.80 (£2.97). Best bakries in Oz, around-oz.com

• Qantas (qantas.com.au/uk) flies London Heathrow to Brisbane via Singapore from £892 including all taxes and surcharges. Valid for departure 16 April - 20 June 2011.

• Further information from Tourism Australia, australia.com