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Readers’ tips: the best of Tunisia

The blue of the Med, the heat of north Africa … Tunisia has so much to offer. Readers recommend their favourite sights, museums, hotels and bars
  
  

Hotel Marhala, Matmata, Tunisia
Sleep in a troglodyte cave at the Hotel Marhala, Matmata in Tunisia Photograph: pr

WINNING TIP: Hotel Marhala, Matmata

You don't often get the chance to sleep in a troglodyte cave. And Hotel Marhala is a very special troglodyte cave hotel. Its rooms, dug out of the ground, are some of the most unusual you'll find. The beginning of the film Star Wars was filmed in the area: Luke Skywalker looking out at the twin suns as he dreams of space travel. The restaurant serves a delicious Tunisian brik, an egg-stuffed fried turnover.
+216-7524 0015, hotel-marhala-matmata.webs.com
robertb

Kelibia

Restaurant El Mansourah
This restaurant is right on Mansourah beach (2km north of Kelibia). The tables are set into rocks in the sea. It serves delicious seafood, has a good wine selection, amazing views and friendly staff.
+216-7229 5169, restomansourah.com.tn
Suethepin

Sousse

Dar Am Taieb museum
Dar Am Taieb is an intriguing private museum of contemporary art in Sousse. Its founder, Taieb Ben Hadj Ahmed, has amassed extensive collections of everyday objects and has also recycled junk into fabulous curiosities and works of art, and these will no doubt enchant adults and children alike. We enjoyed an hour of inspiration wandering through all of the galleries and gardens, and followed it up by having tea with Ahmed and his family (who live among the creations) while his daughter entertained us with her poetry, music and dance.
Ezzahra, Rue 25 Julliet/Rue Ali Ben gdehem 4002, +216-7323 4081, art-tunisie.com
smarshall

Use louage shared taxis

If you master the louage system of shared taxis you can get anywhere in Tunisia at a reasonable cost, and will often cabs with friendly locals who'll give you useful tips. From Sousse we got to the amazing Roman city of Sufetula, with its virtually intact theatre, temples and triumphal arch, the beautiful Kairouan – fourth holiest site in Islam, where we bought a kilim – and the glorious oasis of Nefta, with its 400,000 palm trees, where we went out into the desert to see a mirage.
alansykes

Hammamet

Brauhaus Le Berbère
Missing your real ale? Finding Tunisian lager a bit too fizzy? This brew pub serves three German-style beers (including a dunkel) which are truly fantastic. You'll find it opposite the medina on the central square in Hammamet.
3 Place des Martyrs
aliumbongo

Tunis and around

Palais Kheireddine
We visited Tunis in September 2011, just months after the Arab spring. We were excited about seeing an almost-new nation, and our highlight was stumbling across an art gallery called Palais Kheireddine (transformed into Le Musée de la Ville de Tunis) in the Medina. It was virtually deserted but full of artwork by local artists with enough pent up aggression, borne out of years of oppression, to produce some really earthy art. The setting was perfect: a quiet space with tall, white arches framing poignant works that showed a zany sense of humour. A kindly caretaker showed us some of his favourites, including the gallery's mosaic-tiled roof terrace overlooking the equally deserted square below.
Rue du Tribunal, Place Kheireddine, +216-7156 1780, commune-tunis.gov.tn/publish/content/article.asp?id=410
rrroy22

Restaurant Le Neptune, Carthage
I was lucky enough to spend a year living in Tunis. On weekends we would have a late lunch at Le Neptune, a relaxed seafood restaurant by the sea. The outside terrace gives a beautiful view on Tunis bay and Cap Bon on the other side. The menu is simple and reasonably priced. They do delicious clams with garlicky sauce that you can sop up with your baguette. The restaurant is a favourite for middle-class locals who want a relaxing lunch with decent Tunisian wine (go for the white) and it makes a good break from the souk. It's close to the port of Carthage and Antonin Baths. Take a taxi, or take the super-slow metro and alight at Carthage Demech or Hannibal.
Rue Ibn Chabbat, +216-7173 1456
adlh


The souks

I spent a wonderful morning visiting the medina and the souks of Tunis. The narrow lanes lined with shops were bustling with activity. After my shopping expedition in the souks, I had built quite an appetite for a couscous, a traditional Tunisian dish, and walked into the first restaurant that served it. I then took the tramway to Carthage, a Unesco world heritage site located only 13 miles away from Tunis, where I spent the rest of the day visiting the town's ancient ruins. The area also offers magnificent views of the Gulf of Tunis.
tourismtunisia.com
christel73

The view from El Kachachine
Only a few shops in the souks provide access to their rooftops from which you can enjoy the best views over the souks of the old Medina of Tunis and the mosque of Ezzitouna for free. The best views are available from a shop in the souk El Kachachine.

Here's how to get there: head to the souks of the old Medina, ask any taxi to take you to the "Kasba" square in the centre of Tunis, which is the main government square. With Kasba square to your back, head down to the jeweller's souk (called souk El Berka) and follow this street right in, with the prime minister's office (the actual "Kasba") on your left.

At the end of this street, you will find a perpendicular covered street which marks the beginning of the souk El Kachachine, with its carpet shops. Turn left down this covered street, and on your right is the biggest shop on the street selling crafts, carpets and traditional Tunisian artefacts. Go in and ask to visit the rooftop. You will be able to enjoy clear views of the whole Medina, and especially the Ezzitouna Minaret.
ngaigi

 

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