The Colosseum may be one of Rome's main tourist attractions, but wander up the slight incline away from the famous amphitheatre and you'll find endless gems of architecture, craft, fashion and restaurants tucked away in narrow streets and quiet corners. Formerly the city's seedy underbelly – where prostitutes and outlaws took refuge until as recently as the 1940s – Monti is now an enclave for the city's young, creative flock, and has the new upstarts to prove it. Strolling the cobblestone streets, you're likely to hear the hum of a designer's sewing machine or the thud of a hammer in a jeweller's shop.
The neighbourhood, named after one of Rome's seven famous hills, marries modernity with historical charm – from the fresh new ventures rubbing up against centuries of crumbling craftsmanship to the dapper signore ordering his cafe next to a bedraggled hipster.
Smaller and less touristy than the nightlife hub of Trastevere, it retains a strong community vibe. Read on to get a view of the neighbourhood that's off your standard guidebook grid.
Ai Tre Scallini
You'll know you've arrived at this enoteca when you spot hordes of wine-glass-grasping Italians spilling out of a stooped, ivy-lined doorway. Though it's always jam-packed, this watering hole still carries a familial vibe, and you'll often spot owners Adriano and Barbara greeting regulars with a double kiss. The rustic, wooden bar is stocked with a wide-range of Lazio wines as well as a few old-school beers on tap, and small plates are served for both lunch and dinner. We're fans of the mouthwatering melanzane di parmigiano, polpettine al sugo (meatballs in a tomato sauce), and the ricotta cheese paired with truffle honey. They don't take reservations and the place is full by 7pm, so plan to sip a glass standing up while you wait for your table.
• Via Panisperna 251, +39 06 4890 7495, wix.com/colosseoorg/aitrescalini. Open every day
Mercato Monti
What started as a way for several Monti shop owners to burn through some overstock has now turned into a fully fledged vintage market. Led by local boutique owner Fabrizio Marin and ex-music agent Ornella Cicchetti, the market mixes together 35 seemingly disparate vendors every Sunday. Cicchetti prides herself on featuring only the most beautiful items, and you'll find everything from bold jewels, saucer-like glasses, special-edition Polaroid cameras and handmade glass-blown baubles sprinkled throughout the space. And the clothing is not only vintage – there are also fantastical pieces by emerging fashion designers.
• Hotel Palatino Via Leonina 46/48, mercatomonti.com. Every Sunday (except the last of the month) 10am – 8pm
Casa Clementina
As the old adage says, there's no place like home. And you can find your home in Rome at this new bar styled after a fashionable 60s abode. Complete with a kitchen (pots and pans included) a parlour with a sofa, and even a plush bed in the back room, the space has a cool-yet-domestic vibe. All objects are for sale, from the wine in the fridge to the fabulous clothes hanging in the closet, and there are drinks and snacks to fuel your roaming and buying. It opened in December 2011 and has quickly become the new hip hangout for the city's creative crowd. This gives it an interesting blend of homey and haute: feel free to put your feet up, just remember that your shoes are being judged.
• Via Clementina 9, Casa Clementina on Facebook. Open every day
La Carbonara
This old-school trattoria has been churning out delicious Roman fare since 1906. Owned by the Rossi family – with Mama Teresa taking the culinary helm and son Andrea working the front of house – the restaurant has become a neighbourhood institution. It's hip (Roman musicians and actors frequently stop by), yet cosy with tables packed close together and customers being encouraged to scribble notes on the walls after their meal. The artichoke antipasto selections (both Judea and Romana) are superb, and standout primis are the carbonara and the strozzapreti. For your second course, try venturing into the world of quinto quarto (Roman offal dishes), and go for the tripe or coda alla vaccinara (oxtail stew).
• Via Panisperna 214, +39 06 482 5176, lacarbonara.it/; Closed Sunday.
Antico Forno ai Serpenti
When this place opened in December 2011, owner Alessando Santomauro envisioned creating a modern space that churns out traditional Italian treats. For the food, he enlisted Sergio Conti – hailing from a long line of bakers – who's on site every day overseeing the production of his family's recipes. And for design, Santomauro enlisted two local architects to create a French chic atmosphere that strays from the typical forno format. Stop by in the morning for delicious cornetti or in the afternoon for a slice of pizza bianca, a simple Roman style pizza topped with only olive oil and salt. Guests love their misshaped brutti ma buoni (ugly but good) gluten-free cookies and la mela in camicia, a flaky pastry filled with cinnamon-topped apples.
• Corner of Via dei Serpenti and Via Panisperna. Open every day (on Sunday until 2pm)
Mia Market
It's easy to picture this quirky organic cafe/market set against the seaside in some Californian beach town. Walls are draped in aged magazine paper, wooden crates overflow with seasonal produce, and fresh eggs and tarts are on display. Serving food exclusively from the region of Lazio, their quiche-like tortes are delicious, as are their soups and salads. Customers can dine at the mismatched tables and chairs, and the fact that you need to fetch your wooden, biodegradable spoon from the cupboard further emphasises the cosy atmosphere. Make sure you check out the shelves – laden with artisanal food products such as olive oils, jams, sauces, teas, and organic fruit juices – before you hit the cobblestone road.
• Via Panisperna 225,+39 06 4782 4611, miamarket.blogspot.com. Closed Sunday
Pulp
Only a few minutes from the Via Cavour metro station, this funky and fun vintage shop is still making a sartorial splash nearly a decade after its launch. The brainchild of Fabio Brumeccini and Fabrizio Polanschiand, Pulp features a tightly edited collection of vintage and resale clothes (ranging from €15-€70), with classic staple pieces displayed next to kitsch prints in bold hues and a superb selection of shoes and accessories are sprinkled throughout. And here's something that will excite dedicated followers of fashion: the shop receives new weekly pieces from exclusive designer vintage collections (think Gucci and Chanel). You can even tweak them thanks to their tailoring service.
• Via del Boschetto 140, +39 06 485511. Closed Sunday
Relais Rome Sweet Home Fori Imperiali
Tucked down a charming residential street, this B&B allows you to experience the real-deal Roman life, but is still central enough that you can walk everywhere. The four rooms are modern and spacious; the detached suite with handmade terra cotta floors and a high, exposed wood ceiling is gorgeous. Upon arrival, you'll be handed the keys, as well as a very helpful guide to the neighbourhood, and then left to your own devices – although owner Bernardo is always a phone call away if you need him. Also, each morning he prepares a simple breakfast for guests, which he leaves on a tray outside their door. There's no permanent reception, so either arrange a time to meet Bernardo, or have your cell phone handy to call (there's a number listed at the buzzer). Contact directly for better deals.
• Via Madonna dei Monti 96, +39 06 699 0667, relaisromesweethome.it. Doubles from around €165 per night B&B (two-night minimum)
Vino Roma
Drinking wine and Italy go hand in hand. Get a better grasp on what you're tasting with a quick crash course at Vino Roma, where owner Hande dishes up wisdom on the culture and history of Italian wine and reveals fun facts that you can spout off at your next trip to the enoteca. The all-levels classes are held in a sleek and modern tasting room and the atmosphere is relaxed (serious sippers beware!) and hands-on. You can go online and chose from an array of interesting classes, such as Wine and Cheese Lunch, with a gorgeous spread of cheese, meats, and seasonal produce, or Sparkly Saturdays, where Hande pays homage to her love of the bubbly.
• €50 for each course. Via in Selci 84, mail@vinoroma.com
Fontana di Piazza della Madonna dei Monti
Located in the heart of Monti, the piazzetta has become a sort of local gathering spot. At lunch, you'll find young Romans on benches tucking into piadinas (flatbread from the Emilia-Romagna district) from the nearby and beloved Piadineria, and at night you'll find groups merrily sharing bottles of wine on the marble steps. The flowing fountain was built by Giacomo della Porta in 1588, who also built the nearby Madonna dei Monti church, and served as the district's main water supply back in the day. It's simple and modest as far as fountains go, but it's the perfect place to relax and refuel on a sunny day.
• La Piadineria, Via del Boschetto 98, +39 06 489 07923, lapiadineria.com. Mon-Fri 11.30am-11pm, Sat and Sun 11.30am-3pm
