Route information
Length 13 miles
Duration 5-6 hours
Classification Moderate
Terrain Off-road
Who's it good for? Families with children of all ages, a day out with friends or partners, or if you're new to cycling
Map OS Explorer OL22
Off the beaten track in the New Forest
I'm stuck in a rut. The sun, which I can only guess is somewhere to the west, is sinking behind a cloud as quickly as my bike tyre is sinking into the mud. In the meantime, I try to work out where we are.
We had, until very recently, been cycling – in an idle, enjoyable way, south from Brockenhurst towards a long-anticipated stop in a local pub. However, in the firm belief I knew the right way, I had actually managed to lead us in completely the wrong direction. I'm now paying the price with a muddy posterior and a stern look from my long-suffering wife.
I'm thinking, just maybe, losing your way riding through the New Forest can be passed off as a rite of passage. Established by William the Conqueror as his private hunting ground in 1079, the second smallest national park in the country is still large enough to get thoroughly lost in.
Deer-ly beloved
During that "moment" with my wife, a stag stops close by, and then leaves in a blur – perhaps sensing the mood. The stag is one of the six deer species in the New Forest, perhaps the same breed William and his cohorts once chased; the heather, dotted all around the path, is one of four types here that they may have trampled in pursuit of their quarry. I'm most likely sinking into the same mud they once did.
Growing up in the New Forest, my childhood was a mix of building log cabins until dusk and dodging donkeys during playtime. As an adult it is now a place to come to escape for a weekend, get back to nature and discover one of the many country pubs that lure you in like sirens with the promise of a fresh ale and homemade gourmet grub. We had chosen to cycle the Bike to Beaulieu trail from Brockenhurst to the historical Buckler's Hard. As with many of the trails in the New Forest, around 80% of the route is off-road and laid out on the Forestry Commission's managed gravel tracks, which are designed for cyclists. Some, as this one, are simply muddy bridleways, so rear mud guards are advisable.
Home-grown grub
Finding our bearings, we head east from Brockenhurst and make for The Pig Hotel, which is 1.4 miles out of town. Describing itself as a "restaurant with rooms", The Pig sources all of its food, including, at times, venison, from within a 25-mile radius, and its home-grown vegetables are from the hotel's walled garden.
After the pitstop, we continue our travels east to RAF Beaulieu: now disused, it was once home to fighter squadrons from the US airforce. We then make for Hatchet Pond and the small hamlet of East Boldre. The forest becomes more sparse the further you cycle and eventually gives way to open heathland, which allows for excellent views across the national park. If you feel like another pitstop – as we did – the Turfcutters Arms in East Boldre is ideal for a swift pint before heading on to Buckler's Hard.
As one of the ship-building centres for Nelson's navy, Buckler's Hard holds a unique place in England's maritime history. Lord Nelson's favourite ship the HMS Agamemnon was built on the shore and the skills that helped defeat Napoleon can be seen today. To give me a unique view of the former hive of industry I join James from the New Forest Activity Centre for a kayaking tour of the river Beaulieu.
The river's development has been largely controlled and, as you kayak upstream, mighty oaks stand on the one bank while on the other lie the manicured lawns of property magnates and entrepreneurs. From Buckler's Hard, we take the Solent Way to Beaulieu where you can gorge yourself on an afternoon champagne tea or, like we did, find an ice-cream and plan the return journey.
Take to the trees
For cyclists looking for a sea breeze to go alongside some treetop views, then a treehouse suite at Chewton Glen (chewtonglen.com) near New Milton offers a luxury hideaway that is fit for a king. Perched 30ft up, and overlooking the forest canopy – as well as the babbling Walkford brook, the treehouses are perhaps as close to a luxury safari lodge as you are likely to get in the UK – the en suite showers even have views over the forest. And if you want to explore there are opportunities for that, too: we took advantage of a rare break in the April weather to follow Walkford brook, which flows through Chewton Glen, through a local nature reserve and down towards the coast.
Though the sea breeze was brisk, the view of the Needles – to the west of the Isle of Wight – was worth it; the tooth-shaped chalk formations were shining bright in the late afternoon sun. Once you reach the coast, take a right and you can follow the path all the way into Christchurch – passing the elegant 19th-century Highcliffe Castle along the way – with the ever-changing sky above the English Channel serving as a memorable backdrop.
thenewforest.co.uk
Useful information
How to get there
South West Trains has services to Brockenhurst from London Waterloo, taking 90 minutes.
Where to stay
Clayhill House, Lyndhurst, (023 8028 2304, , doubles from £35 B&B) offers secure bike storage and a drying room for muddy kit.
The Lime Wood Hotel, Lyndhurst, (023 8028 7177, doubles from £275) includes a family forest lodge with log fire and balcony if you're willing to splurge, and gourmet creations from Luke Holder and Angela Hartnett.
The Old Chapel, Sway, (01590 683382, doubles from £60 B&B) is a refurbished ex-chapel with two rooms, one suitable for families, the other for couples.
Where to eat/drink
The Turfcutters Arms (01590 612331) in East Boldre is a typical country pub with Victorian
beams local real ales and a full pub menu.
The Pig (01590 622354) in Brockenhurst offers gastropub fare on a frequently changing menu, as well as being a 26-bedroom country house hotel.
The Montagu Arms (01590 612324) in Beaulieu is Michelin-starred and offers a tasty afternoon tea.
The Oak Inn (023-8028 2350) in Lyndhurst is an award-winning country pub.
Bike hire
Cyclexperience (01590 624204) near the train station in Brockenhurst has a range of bikes for all ages.
For more information on holidays in England, go to VisitEngland.com
