It's a measure of how tough times are in Cancún that, when I flew in there last week and did a deal with a taxi company for a 30-mile ride to my destination, Playa del Carmen, the assistant at the desk whooped for joy – quite loudly – and did a little jig. "We got a sale!" she shouted to the reps at the next counter. "We got a customer!"

That's how it feels on the Riviera Maya right now: tourists are so rare you start to know how it feels to be an endangered species.

Tourism in Mexico has suffered three blows: first there were damaging headlines about drug violence at the start of the year; then came the world recession; and then, like a hole in the head, came swine flu. The upshot is that the Riviera Maya, the country's fastest-growing resort – which, without this triple whammy could have been in line for a bumper season – is staring disaster in the face.

But it's still smiling: they know how to have fun in Mexico, and no-one is giving up just yet. I stayed in Playa at the cabana-style Playa del Karma (+984 803 02 72, hotelplayadelkarma.com), complete with yoga classes.

Virtually every hotel in the country will do you a better deal than its published prices. – in my case, from US$69 to $47 a night. And, like almost every hotel and restaurant along the strip, staff are taking a hit, too – opting to work on lower pay to avoid redundancies. "The tourists will come back," said my waitress. "We all believe that."

But for now, for the sun-seeking savvy, there are some great deals to be had – as well as the hotels, there are bargains in the shops and restaurants. Between October and April is the perfect time to visit for day-in-day-out sunshine and white-sand beaches – almost entirely empty last week. What's more, the Mayan ruins of Chichen Itza, Tulum and the jungle-encircled Coba are so quiet you almost feel they're undiscovered.

• Casa Iguana Hotel in Puerto Vallarta, a beachside hotel perfect for families, has its rates down from US$112 to $56 a night, with two-bed suites available.

• Thomson has 14 nights in Playacar, staying at the Riu Yucatan, flying from Gatwick to Cancun, departing on 5 November, for £941pp, saving £245 on the brochure price.

• Alegria Villas, which opened in late 2007, is a mile from arty Todos Santos on the Pacific coast side of Mexico's Baja California peninsula. Its two palapa-thatched villas (both sleep 2-4) offer privacy and an ocean view, not to mention 50% off until 1 November, and then 25% off until 15 Jan 2010. From $350pp for a seven night stay (saving $350pp), excluding flights.

• Bales' group-escorted Treasures of Mexico journey, starting in Mexico City and ending in Cancún, via Oaxaca, Monte Albán, Mitla, Chiapa de Corzo, San Cristóbal de las Casas, Palenque, Campeche and Mérida, costs £1,895pp for 7 November departure and £2,095 for 26 December departure (both prices include a £150 discount), including flights, accommodation, breakfast and all sightseeing.

• Adventure tour operator Gap Adventures is offering a 20% discount on its 15-day Mexico Ancient Civilisations tour, departing 21 November. Starting in Mexico City, the tour takes in Puebla, Oaxaca, San Cristóbal and the Mayan ruins at Palenque and Chichén Itzá, and ends with time to snorkel, sunbathe and relax at Playa del Carmen. The price has been reduced from £539 to £431pp, and includes accommodation and transport. Excludes flights.