Most ski tour operators don't start charter flights until late December, so if you choose an early-season holiday you will have the pick of the slopes, no crowds or lift queues and the best choice of rental equipment. And early-season prices can be less than half those in high season.

But if you don't want to run the risk of finding yourself without snow, you have to pick your resort with care. Reliable European resorts include Zermatt (1,620m), which has the Kleine Matterhorn glacier and Saas Fee (1,800m), where most of the skiing takes place on and around the glacier.

Saas Fee enjoys a spectacular setting. There are 13 4,000m peaks, including Switzerland's highest mountain, the Dom (4,545m), and the views while skiing are magnificent. I had not been there for several years but was immediately struck by how the resort has been revitalised: new lifts have radically improved the ski areas, bars and shops have been revamped, restaurants offer tantalising menus.

Not only that, but with excellent snow-making facilities and a huge glacier, Saas Fee's 1,800m vertical run was open and in great condition. Few resorts at this time of year can match that. Up at the Mittelallalin, where, at 3,500m, the snow is guaranteed, there are long cruisey runs, ideal for getting your ski legs back into shape.

Saas Fee also has one of the highest and most scenic restaurants in the Alps, and a revolving one at that. It takes about an hour to complete the revolution at the Mittelallalin restaurant, but don't leave your gloves on the windowsill as only the restaurant floor revolves. Underneath is "the highest and largest ice pavilion in the world" - a huge cave with ice sculptures, exhibitions and details about the ever-shrinking glaciers.

By the time my Glacier Express train reached Zermatt, night had fallen and twinkling lights lit up the town. The horses waiting to ferry guests in carriages from the Mont Cervin hotel pawed the ground, ringing the bells on their bridles. My arrival at the Hotel Admiral was less romantic - in a battery-operated small van (Zermatt is also car free) - but I did have a room with a view of the Matterhorn.

Even when snow conditions are bad, Zermatt's three ski areas are open (although there is sometimes limited terrain). For guaranteed snow in any conditions, head to the Kleine Matterhorn, the highest area, which has a glacier. Basking in the view of the Matterhorn, we even went over to the Italian side, stopping at the newly renovated refuge at Theodulpass for pasta.

Another key to a successful early-season holiday is to find a resort that has more to offer than skiing. This is true of both Zermatt and Saas Fee, but if your preference is for long lunches when conditions deteriorate, Zermatt may well win first place. Food is taken seriously here; competition is keen and standards high. There are no less than 38 mountain restaurants, the best of which have to be booked in advance in high season. The town has a further 100 restaurants, and many lively bars.

Saas Fee

Small alpine resort in lovely setting, no cars, good choice of bars and restaurant, glacier skiing, friendly atmosphere. 234km from Geneva. Altitude 1,800m, highest point 3,620m.

Skiing: 125km of piste, 32 lifts, six-day adult liftpass Sfr290, children under 16 ski free if two adults buy a six-day lift pass or a ski-five-days-in-seven pass.

Restaurants: On mountain: Mittelallalin, Berghaus Plattjen, Gletschergrotte, Popcorn Plaza. In town: La Ferme, Skihutte, Fletschhorn (expensive), Bodmen (rustic, off the beaten track), Hotel Walliserhof has excellent restaurants including Thai.

Bars and discos: The Happy Bar, Popcorn, Metropol, The Art Club.

Getting there: Ski Solutions (020-7471 7700, skisolutions.com) will tailor-make holidays to Saas Fee for approx £350pp for one week including flights.

Further information: Saas Fee Tourist Office (saas-fee.ch).

Zermatt

Stunning setting under the Matterhorn, no cars, huge ski area, unlimited restaurants on and off the mountain. Lots to do on or off skis. Last season, Gravity Park, the biggest snow park in Europe, opened on Theodul glacier. Opening this month is Zermatt's first Casino at the Grand Hotel. 3hrs from Geneva, 2hrs from Sion. Altitude 1,620m, highest point 3,820m at Klein Matterhorn.

Skiing: 250km of pistes, 71 lifts. Six-day pass covering whole ski area in Switzerland costs Sfr320, children under nine ski free. Wide variety of other lift passes available.

Schools: New for this season is a ski/snowboard school called Stoked or the Ski School, a breakaway of the Stoked Snowboarding School (00 41 27 967 70 20, stoked.ch). Adult group instruction Sfr235 for two and a half hours a day for five days.

Restaurants: On Mountain: of the 38, don't miss Paradies, Zum See, Chez Vrony, and Furi Simi. In town: over 100, including Schaferststubli, Whymperstube for fondues, raclettes in the Hotel Monte Rosa, Portofino in the Post Hotel for fish, Myoko for sushi, Moods for cafe chic.

Bars and discos: Moods cocktail bar, Le Broken in the Post Hotel (disco where everyone dances on barrels), Papperla, the North Wall (resort workers' hangout), Vernissage for quiet lattes, Elsie's for champagne and atmosphere.

Getting there: Momentum Ski (020-7371 9111, momentumski.com) has four nights' B&B at the three-star Hotel Parnass from £489pp from December 14 including flights and rail transfer to Zermatt. The Ski Company (01451 843123, skicompany.co.uk) has two newly built chalets boasting luxurious accommodation, food and service. One week from December 15 costs £699pp including flights (£2,016 in peak season).

Transport: Swiss rail pass: second-class four days £104, eight days £148; first-class four days £157, eight days £222. Return transfer ticket to resort: first class £79; second class £51. For timetables and details, see the Swiss Federal Railways website sbb.ch.

Further information: For other accommodation details and special offers, see myswitzerland.ch or contact Switzerland Tourism (international toll free number: 00800 100 200 30) or visit zermatt.ch.

Other early-season favourites

Val d'Isère 1,850m. Ski Weekend (01367 241636, skiweekend.com) has four days' guided skiing with Jean Claude Faudot for £469pp including ski pass, two-star B&B accommodation, scheduled Swiss flights and medical insurance.

Chamonix 1,035m, highest point 3,842m. A great time to ski the usually crowded Grands Montets. Ski in three countries in one weekend with Ski Weekend December 12-16 from £449pp including four nights' B&B, scheduled Swiss flights, transfers, all-day ski guiding for intermediates and above, and medical insurance.

St Anton am Arlberg 1,304m, highest point 2,811m. Lotus Supertravel (020-7962 9933, supertravel.co.uk) has seven nights from December 15 in a luxury chalet with Jacuzzi and sauna for £649pp including breakfast, afternoon tea, dinner and wine, £25 supplement for en suite bathroom.

Verbier 1,500m. The Ski Club (0845 4580784, skiclub.co.uk) has four nights' half-board in Hotel Verbier for £475pp (two sharing) including flights and transfers. Guests must be members of the Ski Club.

Val Thorens , 2,300m, the highest resort in Europe. The Ski Club has an under-20s' seven-night package in Val Thorens, December 14-21 for £460 full-board (shared room in a chalet) including flights.

Across the Atlantic

Vail at 2,475m is consistently reliable. This season, it has already had more snow than in the whole of last year. Ski All America (08701 676676, skiallamerica.com) has seven nights' B&B from December 14 at The Lodge (five-star), right on the slopes,for £828pp (two sharing) including flights and transfers.

Also Tignes, 2,100m, the location of the Grande Motte glacier; and St Moritz,1,800m.