I have always tried to run Wild Frontiers from an apolitical standpoint. To judge whether a government is benevolent enough to make it suitable for tourism is fraught with potential inconsistencies, bias and hypocrisy. Much better, I've always believed, to run all our trips in as responsible a manner as possible and let our clients decide for themselves if they wish to visit a certain country or not. That said, there are always exceptions.

And up until last November, Burma was generally considered to be one. Accused of multiple human rights violations, the ruling military junta was thought to be beyond the pale, and an unofficial tourist boycott was in place. But at the end of last year, elections (albeit rigged ones) were held, the generals handed power to a "civilianised" government and finally released Aung San Suu Kyi – the democratically elected leader – from house arrest.

Aung San Suu Kyi then dropped her opposition to tourism, arguing that as long as it is done responsibly, tourism can be a positive stance for change.

But how easy is it to travel responsibly? How does the ethical traveller make sure the money he or she is spending reaches ordinary Burmese people? Before launching our programme to the country, I decided to go and find out.

You can't avoid financing the government to some extent; with a 10% tax on most things, it's inevitable that some funds will find their way into their coffers. But if you are clever, and avoid those hotels either owned by the government or their privileged cronies, it is possible to keep this amount to a minimum.

At the Red Canel, a small locally-owned boutique hotel in Mandalay, a woman called Lwen Lwen showed us around. As she'd worked here for five years, I asked her what she thought about tourism and if bookings were up or down. "Oh this year will be best year," she said with a smile. "More tourists, we very happy."

When I headed to Bagan, the story was the same. San Win, the manger of the lovely Tharabar Hotel, thought the tourist boycott folly. "The only people that suffer," he said, "are the people ... no one else."

He was simply concerned there were going to be enough hotels rooms for the coming season. According to him there were only 9,000 suitable rooms in the entire country, 700 in Bagan, and if too many tourists came, the infrastructure wouldn't be able to cope. But he too was bullish about the future. "Things are changing," he said. "More private places will come up and they will make a difference."

One thing was for sure, even in low season – with many friendly touts trying to sell me everything from Buddha's heads to grasshoppers, it was obvious that plenty of ordinary people make a living out of tourism.

Although it is impossible for me to know the true extent of human rights violations inflicted on the people of this wonderful country by the government, or how much money they earn as a result of our presence, of three things I feel I can be sure. First, this government is not in power because of tourism; compared with the income they derive from timber, oil and gas, gems and agricultural exports, the money made from tourists is insignificant. Second, there is no doubt in my mind that the vast majority of Burmese people want tourists to visit; a more welcoming and friendly population I have yet to find. And last, it is also clear that a huge number of ordinary civilians, both directly and indirectly, benefit, from our presence.

Tourism does not sustain the generals; indeed it can be argued staying away leaves the country and its people more isolated and vulnerable. There should be other ways of persuading them to change.

Later this month Aung San Suu Kyi is due to go on a tour of the provinces. Although the programme will be carefully managed with public appearances avoided and meetings with party delegates taking place in private, it represents a critical juncture in both her political position and that of the new government.

There is no doubt that The Lady, as she known in Burma, is deeply loved, so what will happen should the public hear their hero is in town and gather in numbers to greet her? Will the old, dictatorial ways resurface with Aung San Suu Kyi being sent back to her house in Rangoon? Or will it be allowed? Only time will tell.

It will be up to our clients to decide if they wish to come here or not. But as long as I am convinced Wild Frontiers can both offer our clients an interesting experience, and in doing so, benefit the ordinary people of this beautiful country, from 2012 we will start to offer Burma as one of our destinations.
Some names have been changed

• Wild Frontiers (020-7736 3968,wildfrontiers.co.uk) offers a 15-day tour of Burma for £2,395 in May 2012 and £2,495 in November 2012. The price includes all food, sightseeing, guides but not international flights