Take me there: Ieper, Flanders
Why go?
Next week sees the start of a long-running series of commemorative events to mark the centenary of the First World War. The Flemish town of Ieper (known then as Ypres), was at the centre of much of the fighting, its medieval buildings reduced to rubble, only to be rebuilt, brick by brick, in an extraordinary act of determination by the local people. Today, it makes an attractive and peaceful base for exploring the monuments, battlefields and war cemeteries of Flanders.
What to do
There’s no better introduction to First World War history than the excellent In Flanders Fields museum, which tells the story of the Great War through the experiences of individuals (inflandersfields.be). It can be found on the first floor of the Lakenhalle, a meticulous reconstruction of Ieper’s medieval cloth hall. A few streets away is the Menin Gate, a huge memorial arch inscribed with the names of 54,896 “lost” soldiers whose bodies were never found. At 8pm every day the road through the arch is closed and the “Last Post” is played. There are dozens of war cemeteries in the area, but if you’re only going to visit one make it Tyne Cot – the largest British military cemetery in the world. For details of commemorative events happening, see visitflanders.co.uk.
Where to stay
Don’t be put off by the uninspiring name: the Main Street Hotel is a real one-off: cosy, welcoming and just the right side of eccentric (doubles from £125, mainstreet-hotel.be).
Where to eat
De Ruyffelaer is the place to try hearty Flemish favourites, such as pork knuckle in a mustard sauce, and rabbit in beer, in an intimate wood-panelled dining room (deruyffelaer.be).
Insider tip
Tracey Morgan of Holts Tours (holts.co.uk), which offers escorted trips to the Flanders battlefields, recommends a visit to the trench system at Sanctuary Wood. “You can go into the muddy trenches and get a feel for what it would have been like, and see the bullet holes in the trees.”
Give me a break
Home: waterside cottage in Argyll
A collection of cool canal-side cottages has just been launched by the Scottish holiday lettings agency Cottages & Castles. The nine lock-keepers’ cottages have all been decorated by an interior designer. Seaview Cottage, which dates back to 1815 and is perfectly situated on the banks of the Crinan Canal in Argyll, offers fantastic views from its pretty garden. A week costs from £521 (cottages-and-castles.co.uk).
Away: cheap flights to the Canaries
British Airways has announced a new route from Gatwick to Fuerteventura in the Canary Islands. The service will operate twice a week, all year round, from 13 December. Hand baggage-only fares start from £69 one way and a week’s stay at the three-star Fuertesol Apartments, in the centre of the island not far from the shops, bars and restaurants, costs from £259pp (ba.com).
