The tower of Salisbury Cathedral has 332 steps. I know this because head guide Dudley Heather was on hand with all the facts. And they make impressive reading There are 3,000 tons of oak in the roof and 300 tons of lead on top of that. But the foundations are only four feet deep, due to the high water table. That's why it doesn't have a peal of bells – the vibrations might bring down the spire, the tallest in the UK.

Inside the great oak gates that seal off Cathedral Close at 11pm is Sarum College, an ecumenical centre that doubles as a jolly B&B (01722 424800, sarum.ac.uk, doubles from £97). The big bonus is that if you rise early, you get the cathedral grounds to yourself before the gates open at 7am.

Work off breakfast with a walk on Salisbury Plain, from Bratton on the north side up to the iron age fort and chalk white horse, then down the escarpment to Edington for lunch at the Three Daggers pub (01380 830940, threedaggers.co.uk).

• What to see: Salisbury Cathedral (01722 555156, salisburycathedral.org.uk, tours of the cathedral free; tours of the tower £10 adult, £8 child)