It takes a brave person to ignore tradition - and a braver one to ignore friends who insist they know best. But if you have the courage to turn away from the magnetic Taj Mahal and the beckoning playtime palaces of Rajasthan, a trip through south India is probably the most rewarding introduction to the vastness and varied cultures of the sub-continent.
The southern tip of India is in many ways the soft entry to India. It is also a particularly impressive one. Visitors to Tamil Nadu and Kerala states benefit from both the living legacies of ancient cultures and the high education standards for today's 100 million or so inhabitants. A child may appear at an isolated temple and, in perfect English, ask for an opinion on Mr Blair's relationship with the US; a local in a cafe may wish to discuss VS Naipaul's latest book while a band-led political procession marches past.
Travelling is easy, fascinating - indeed, a sheer delight. The landscape is lush, benefiting from the guaranteed initial dump of summer rains that in recent years have petered out as the monsoon progresses north. International planes fly in to Chennai (formerly called Madras), Tamil Nadu state's genial capital lapped by Indian Ocean surf. From here, trails slip down the coast to beach hotels or twist inland through fields of paddy and sugar canes shaded by coconut palms, to quiet villages signalled by the towering gateways of their temples. There, you can seek out skilled silk-weavers, wood-carvers and bronze-casters. In contrast, the ancient Hindu temple-cities such as Tiruchchirappalli and Madurai serve up a programme of jaunty elephant processions, music-making, markets and coconut-perfumed rituals to swarms of tourist-pilgrims.
Further west, in the rolling Cardamom Hills planted with coffee, turmuric and cardamom, elephants roam in the coolness of Periyar National Park. The hills drop down steeply into Kerala state, a coastal strip that provides Indians with much of their supply of coconuts, cashews, bananas and ginger, and Europeans with beach and waterside hotels. Here, life is lived in a watery maze of rivers, lakes and canals, or in the booming coastal port-cities where ships trading between Europe and the east first introduced Judaism and Christianity into India.
Pervading this sumptuousness is an ancient Hindu culture that remains remarkably pure, keeping up its religious traditions, festivals and classical dance. Even the temples, which may appear to be a confusing mish-mash of writhing gods and dark halls at first, quickly become a familiar joy. The area's history is fairly straightforward, too. Few invaders made permanent inroads here, and most traders kept to their business.
All this is in sharp contrast to North India's cocktail of Central Asian and European influences, which resulted in a complicated cultural mix and a confusion of empires rising and falling. The southern cities have fewer aggressive hawkers, fewer greedy hoteliers and higher standards of cleanliness. Prices are often lower. Food is less rich and healthier. After a fortnight deep in south India, you are set to take the rest of India by storm.
History and temples
Tamil Nadu and Kerala people enjoy a Dravidian culture that took root some 2,300 years ago.
Tamil Nadu: The Dravidian culture peaked under the medieval Chola rulers who promoted a god-king cult, were tremendous art patrons, introduced an elaborate tax system, promoted village identity and built temples fast and furiously. Even today, many villages trace the origins of their temples and water tanks to Chola founders and focus their community life around the temple. On the other hand, the state's capital, Chennai, was founded by the English in 1639 and became their Indian headquarters until the move to Calcutta in 1772; from Chennai, they saw off their French trading competitors based at nearby Pondicherry.
Kerala: Here, the story took a different turn. The narrow coastal strip beside the southern ranges of the Western Ghats looks westwards across the seas. Its many ports such as Kochi (Cochin) and Alappuzha (Alleppey) welcomed Roman, Arab and Chinese traders, Jews seeking asylum, St Thomas bringing Christianity, and then a succession of Portuguese, Dutch and English traders. More recently, Kerala was the first Indian state to achieve full literacy, to have a family planning programme and to freely elect a Communist government. Thanks to this diversity and to money sent home by Keralans working in the Middle East, the villages and hillsides are dotted with crazy-shaped, brightly coloured churches, mosques and extravagant private houses. Huge temple processions with elaborately caparisoned elephants move through the streets but, harking back to old tradition, only Hindus are permitted to enter Kerala's temples.
Places to visit
The whole area is unusually rich in sites. This means that a small area holds diverse interest without travelling long distances. Here are half-a-dozen favourites, contrasting places that can easily be woven into a fortnight's coast-to-coast trip.
Chennai: For relaxed atmosphere, a fort that includes remarkable British funerary monuments in St Mary's church, a stunning Pantheon museum complex, a busy wide beach lined with fine Victorian buildings, and a winter classic Bharat Natyam dance festival.
Mamallapuram: The Pallava rulers' port-city, where it is possible to wander the conveniently clustered ruins for a morning's quick overview of Indian temple development from carved caves to fully developed plans; then return to your hotel for a swim.
Gingee: Often billed as South India's greatest unvisited monument, a spectacular fortified site built by the Vijayanagar rulers in the 15th-16th centuries and contested by most subsequent armies in the south. Great for a picnic, but watch out for monkeys.
Madurai: The ultimate temple city, busy and noisy day and night, constantly being redecorated with lividly bright spirograph patterns or blushing, writhing plaster gods. Labyrinth of temple halls peopled by women singing, families visiting, elephants helping with costly pujas (worship), and markets all around.
Periyar National Park: The drive up the hills is beautiful, then the 700sq km park is one of India's best for watching wild elephant at sunrise or sunset; good bird life, too, and knowledgeable naturalists.
Kerala's backwaters: The greatest pleasure in Kerala is to take a boat (and boatman) from Alappuzha or Kottayam slowly through the shimmering backwaters, simply watching local life. Go for half a day, a day or, better still, stay on a converted riceboat for two or three days.
Food
Each area of south India has its own cuisine and specialities. Kerala cuisine uses lots of tamarind. The Chettinad merchants near to Madurai have a special spicy chicken dish, but, in general, little meat is eaten. River and sea fish are delicious spiced and grilled, and vegetarian dishes are so highly developed that there is almost an infinite variety, usually cooked with gentle, locally grown spices.
Indians tend to eat breakfast late. In the south, it is worth waiting for a dosa (huge rice pancake) with its potato filling, vegetable sauce and fresh coconut. Roadside cafes are good for these and for the classic south Indian dish, the thali - a whole meal served in little bowls with a mound of steaming rice in the middle and a continuous delivery of hot fresh breads. For an instant drink, have the top of a green coconut sliced off and drink down cooling, tender coconut water through a straw; for a snack, buy a hand of sweet-flavoured bananas.
Hotels and beaches
Fairytale palaces are less abundant in south India than in the north. But the days of making do with very modest accommodation to see some world-class sites have gone. The number of small, family-run hotels in lovely settings - some of them converted old buildings - increases each year; and many pay close attention to food. In Kerala, the Casino Group of hotels is unmatched: consistently good-quality buildings, atmosphere and food matched by envrinomental responsibility. Apart from a small patch in Kerala, beaches tend to be fairly empty, peopled by the occasional fisherman; sensible swimsuits are advised, and perhaps a T-shirt, too; watersports are rare. Here are a few well-tested coast-to-coast favourite hotels.
Chennai: Taj Connemara. Once the Nawaj of Wallajah's town house, then a spacious city centre hotel since the 1930s, now lavishly renovated with courtyard pool and good food.
Taj Connemara, Binny Road, Madras 600002 (tel: +44 2852 0123, (fax: +44 2852 3361, email: connemara.chennai@tajhotels.com. Doubles from US$190 per night.
Mamallapuram: Temple Bay Beach Resort. A simple, shoreside hotel with a cluster of cottages with sea views, under new management and new renovation; an ideal base for beach walks and temple visiting away from the hurly burly of Madras.
Temple Bay Beach Resort, Kovalam Road (ECR), Mamallapuram 603104, Tamil Nadu (tel: +41 1424 2251, fax: +41 1424 2255, email: grttemplebay@vsnl.net). Doubles from US$102 per night.
Kumbhakonum: Sterling Swamimalai. A rambling wooden building with rustic rooms, thatched roofs, local furniture; set in the countryside, near Daraswaram and other tip-top temples.
Sterling Swamimalai, 6/30-B Agraharam Thimma kudi, Baburajpuram Post Office, Swamimalai 612302 (tel: +435 2420044, fax: +435 2421705, email: wamimal@md4.vsnl.net.in). Doubles from US$125 per night (full board).
Chettinad: The Bangala. Stay in one of the Chettiar bankers' grand, brightly coloured 19th-century mansions. The family-managed Bangala (bungalow) has simple rooms, delicious home-cooked meals and expert family guidance on local bazaars, temples and villages.
The Bangala, Karaikudi 630001, Tamil Nadu (tel: +45 6522 0221, email: bangala@vsnl.com. Doubles from US$101 per night.
Periyar: Spice Village. Delightful cottages set amid lawns and trees just outside the park. Good food, much-lauded simple ayurvedic spa; various activities include a night walk in the wilds.
Spice Village, Casino Hotel Reservations (see Cochin, below). Doubles from US$135 per night.
Mararikulam: Marari Beach. The best beachside hotel on the Kerala Coast by far. True luxury achieved with quality simplicity - Kerala-style cottages set in a rambling coconut grove, vast beach nearby, accomplished ayurvedic spa. Even good during the monsoons. Winner of the Green Globe Award for environmental tourism - in consequence, no room service or watersports.
Marari Beach, nr Alappuzha, Casino Hotel Reservations (see Cochin, below). Doubles from US$161 per night.
Kerala backwaters: Spice Coast Cruises. With Kashmir closed, entrepreneurial Keralans have filled the vacuum for houseboat holidaying, not always well. Spice Coast Cruises are the best: simple, elegant one- and two-bedroom houseboats refashioned from old riceboat hulls come with friendly crew of three - two oarsmen/navigators, and a cook; moor at night for local exploration. Strictly ecofriendly: no wastage dumped into the backwaters.
Spice Coast Cruises, Casino Hotel Reservations (see Cochin, below). Doubles from US$190 per night (full board).
Cochin: Brunton Boatyard. A beautifully remodelled waterfront Kerala/Dutch style building set around a magnificent old raintree. Just 26 suites and rooms with high colonial-style beds, water views even as you soak in your tub watching fishing boats pass by), an easy rickshaw ride into Fort Cochin.
Brunton Boatyard, Casino Hotel Reservations, Willingdon Island, Cochin 682003 (tel: +48 4266 8221, fax: +48 4266 8001, email: casino@vsnl.com). Doubles from US$294 per night.
Way to go
Getting there: British Airways (0845 7733377, ba.com) flies London Heathrow-Chennai from £617pp return.
Further information: The India Tourist Office in London (020-7437 3677, indiatouristoffice.org).
Country code: 00 91.
Time difference: + 5.5hrs
Flight time Heathrow-Chennai: 10hrs.
£1 = 67.80 rupees.
· Louise Nicholson has been visiting, writing about and lecturing on India since 1980, during some 130 trips there. She offers personal consultancy to travellers, and her future tours include two to south India. Email: loulounic@rcn.com.
