Tom Hall and Fiona Christie 

Ask the experts

Our Lonely Planet experts, Tom Hall and Fiona Christie, answer your travel queries.
  
  


A weekend in Gdansk

For our twentieth wedding anniversary, my husband and I would like an inexpensive city break in Gdansk. Do any low-cost airlines fly there? Is it a tourist-friendly place for independent travellers, or should we take a package? Who offers packages to Gdansk? I'm particularly interested in its Hanseatic history and medieval core. Has the post-war rebuilding been successful?
Catherine Otley, by email

Gdansk is a beautiful, historic destination, famed for its incredibly restored old town. But it has a more recent past that also deserves your time and attention.

For hundreds of years, the Hanseatic city of Gdansk was the largest port on the Baltic Sea. It was the scene of the first exchanges of the Second World War, when the Germans shelled Polish positions at Westerplatte, a few miles north of the old town - which itself was later razed to the ground during battles for control of the city, and by bombing raids. More recently, the Solidarity movement was founded in the Gdansk shipyards - underlining the city's pivotal role not only in the history of Poland but also of Europe.

Take time to see the Historical Museum of Gdansk in the town hall for an overview of the city's past, including fascinating photos of the old town before reconstruction. You can view the results just outside.

Once you've strolled the old town, try to make some time to venture out of town - Sopot, lying just to the north, has a relaxed seaside air. Gdansk and Sopot make up two of the three cities of the Tri-City area, the third being Gdynia.

Further north, accessible by a boat ride in summer, is the Hel Peninsula, a 30-mile sandbank extending north of the Tri-City area. The shifting sand dunes of the Slowinski National Park are also well worth a trip, though this is a full day's outing from Gdansk.

For packages to Gdansk, try Polish Regency Tours (020 8992 8866) which has three-night breaks from £299 per person. Gdansk isn't served by budget airlines, but Buzz and Air Berlin fly to Berlin from London Stansted, from where you could continue on by train to Gdansk via Poznan.

Contact Deutsche Bahn (0870 243 5363) for times and fares.

Down the Australian coast

We're off to Australia for three weeks in February. We have an exciting two-night stop in Singapore, before flying to Brisbane (nine nights) and Sydney (six nights). Initially, we're hooking up with friends in Surfers Paradise, and would love to plan a few days on Fraser Island, as well as some fun days out. Any recommendations?

Our main concern is accommodation, especially in Sydney, as there are three of us. We don't need to 'slum it', but we do want value for money, possibly staying in four-bed hostel dorms. Is it easy to get triple rooms (three single beds) in hostels? Help!
Fred Wellsbury, Helen Swatton and Sally Jones, Swindon

The east coast of Australia is a road well-travelled for a reason - the entire route is lined with fantastic, varied and ever-changing scenery, with less developed inland areas that reward exploration and getting off the beaten path.

Sydney needs little introduction, but Brisbane's cafe scene and cosmopolitan atmosphere are worth a day or two. After Surfers Paradise you'll probably welcome a change of pace, so head south to the Byron Bay area, which balances the bustling but very chilled-out town of the same name with laidback alternative communities and traditional, quiet seaside towns such as Lennox Head and Brunswick Heads.

Travel inland for some real peace and quiet; Springbrook National Park is well known for high waterfalls, ancient forests and great views over the surrounding area. Lonely Planet's East Coast Australia outlines routes and side trips along the coast from Melbourne to northern Queensland. Accommodation will vary from place to place - if you get in early enough, the very well situated Sydney Central YHA (00 61 2 9281 9111) has excellent value doubles with a bunk for an extra person for around £45 per room, depending on availability.

You're unlikely to get a four-person room in a hostel to yourselves unless you pay for four beds. Elsewhere, it'll depend on the location. Some resources to help your research can be found at www.innaustralia.com.au and www.babs.com.au.

Honeymoon in Shetland and Orkney

We are hoping to spend our honeymoon next September on the Orkney and Shetland Islands. We have two weeks, and would like to go first to the Shetlands - with a 'hop' over to the Faroe Islands or Norway - before heading south to Orkney for the second week. Our budget is about £1,000 per person.

What is the best and most affordable way of seeing these two sets of islands, and how practical is it to build in a trip to Norway/the Faroes and stay in budget?
Jon Smalldon and Lizzie Thompson, London

Due to their relatively remote location, it is expensive to holiday in the Shetland and Orkney Islands. However, I think it is possible to include a trip to Bergen or the Faroe Islands and stay within budget... just!

As single flights are pricey, your best bet is to get a return to Sumburgh in Shetland for £240 (www.ba.com) and a return from there to Kirkwall in Orkney for £90. Or, if you can get a cheap return with EasyJet to Aberdeen, you could change to a BA flight there and save up to £50.

Your other option is to take a car on the ferry from Aberdeen to Lerwick in Shetland, and return via Kirkwall. Northlink (0845 600 0449) operates an overnight service for £341 per car in the high season. If you want a cabin for the overnight legs, this costs an extra £120, but you can book sleeper seats for free.

Taking a car would give you extra flexibility when travelling around the islands, as the buses have fairly limited timetables. Unfortunately, accommodation tends to be pretty costly; expect to pay at least £30 per night for a double room.

The ferry goes from Lerwick to either Bergen or the Faroe Islands (www.smyril-line.com). Both journeys last about 14 hours, and cost £144 per person in the high season. Again, accommodation is expensive, but I'm sure you'd find the magnificent landscapes of the Faroes, or the charm and history of Bergen, well worth it.

· We welcome letters. Tom Hall and Fiona Christie from Lonely Planet address as many as possible here. Email travel.tips@observer.co.uk or write to Escape, 119 Farringdon Road, London EC1R 3ER. The writer of the week's star letter wins a Lonely Planet guide of their choice (so include a daytime telephone number and postal address). No individual correspondence can be entered into.

 

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