Places to stay
The Rectory Hotel, Crudwell An idyllic weekend retreat, this Georgian rectory with picture-perfect, bloom-filled gardens has been converted into an 18-room hotel, oozing classic country-house style. Guest rooms boast claw-footed baths, goose-down bedding and rich fabrics, but it’s the rooms below where the magic really happens. Award-winning chef Rob Weston presides over the kitchen, with the lovely conservatory-style restaurant opening on to pristine lawns. Expect creative twists with classic local ingredients – cured trout with blood orange and English wasabi or guinea fowl with wild garlic spatzle. Doubles from £160 B&B; therectoryhotel.com
Russell’s of Broadway Something of a Cotswolds institution, Set on Broadway’s almost impossibly picturesque high street, Russell’s is a restaurant with seven light, airy and sumptuously comfortable rooms. The menus change seasonally, focusing on local produce in dishes that might include barbecued monkfish with crispy rice cake, or Creedy Carver duck breast with salsify. Desserts are rich and should not be missed, which is all the more reason to retire full and sleepy to your bedroom upstairs. Doubles from £170 B&B; russellsofbroadway.co.uk
Middle Rose, Blockley A cosy self-catering cottage in the pretty village of Blockley, this is a perfect bolthole to savour the foodie delights nearby. Just two minutes down the high street is the wonderful Blockley Café, which offers delicious locally sourced food. The Cotswold Cheese Company in Moreton-in-Marsh sells more than 120 different artisan and farmhouse cheeses with a focus on those from the Cotswolds – perfect for a feast to enjoy by the log fire. For fabulous craft beer, visit Off the Square in Stow-on-the-Wold. Middle Rose, sleeps four, from £150 per night, minimum 3 nights; part of Luxury Cotswolds Retreats, which has a range of self-catering properties, luxurycotswoldretreats.com
Where to eat
The Kingham Plough A stone’s throw from Chipping Norton, the Kingham Plough has all the trimmings of a typical gastropub – scrubbed wood tables, muted decor, floorboards and flagstones – but with a warm welcome and a real sense of character. Local suppliers are central to the excellent menus, which combine hearty classics – Cotswold venison pie, fish and chips – with lighter options, including charcuterie boards and teriyaki salmon tartare, both sourced from local Chipping Norton producers (thekinghamplough.co.uk).
The Double Red Duke, Clanfield This classic honey-hued building, dating back to the 16th century, is charming both inside and out, with jade green banquettes and red leather bar stools inside, and scarlet-and-white parasols on the terrace. The open-flame kitchen specialises in steaks, but the spit-roast chicken and wood-fired cod are equally delicious, and there are vegetarian and vegan options. Work up an appetite with a circular walk from the pub door: three circular routes are detailed on the pub’s website (countrycreatures.com/double-red-duke).
Muse Brasserie, Cheltenham If you fancy something a little more formal, try this French fusion restaurant helmed by two chefs – one hailing from Paris, the other from India. The dining room is stunning: vivid blue walls lined with hundreds of bottles, powder-pink furniture and blossom-clad branches create an alfresco-inside feel. Food encompasses everything from Gallic classics like pissaladière and ham, pea and leek terrine to Indian curries and samosa chat. Vegetarians and vegans are well-served, with inventive food such as Chettinad jackfruit and tandoor cauliflower steak (musebrasserie.com).
Time to shop
Daylesford Organic If you distilled the Cotswolds down to one experience, Daylesford – an achingly tasteful temple to all things foodie – would be it. What began 21 years ago as a farm shop and cafe on the Daylesford Estate has grown into a kind of Harrods Food Hall in the countryside, selling everything from fruit, vegetables and meats to pre-prepared dishes, hampers for self-caterers and an artisan bakery, with everything made in-house. There’s an organic restaurant, too, serving a tempting range from breakfast wheatgrass smoothies to charcuterie and cocktails – bear in mind, though, the Harrods comparison extends to prices, too (daylesford.com).
Stroud farmers’ market Taking place every Saturday from 9am-2pm, this is the place to come to really get a sense of the breadth of produce to be found in the Cotswolds. More than 50 stalls stretch out from Cornhill Square, offering hand-baked goodies, cheese and relishes, cured meats and fresh fruit and vegetables. Pick up a sourdough loaf from the Salt Bakehouse, and pair with Stinking Bishop or Single Gloucester Cheese. Sweet treats range from Sicilian cannoli to custard tarts, alongside market favourite Pippin, which elevates the humble doughnut with fillings including lemon and pistachio, cappuccino, and strawberries and cream (stroud.gov.uk).
Upton Smokery, Burford Smaller scale than Daylesford but offering food equally as lipsmacking, Upton Smokery specialises in smoked meats, fish and cheeses. If you’re self-catering, there’s an excellent barbecue selection, with seasonings to really bring out the flavours and a fine selection of wines to accompany whatever you choose to buy. Afterwards, stroll up Burford’s unspoilt high street, dotted with boutiques and gift shops, and drop into the charming Priory Tea Rooms for a sinfully good cream tea (uptonsmokery.co.uk).
Learn to cook
The Cotswolds Baking Workshop, Shipston-on-Stour A great choice for those with a sweet tooth, these small, informal classes, held in a home kitchen, offer the chance to try your hand at everything from doughnuts and macarons to eclairs and choux pastry – and Portugal’s world-famous pastel de nata. Group classes are bite-size: just two hours, with private/bespoke tuition also available. Combine with lunch, or early supper at The George in Shipston, voted the best pub in Warwickshire in 2022 (cotswoldsbaking.com).
• This article was amended on 17 July 2023. An earlier version referred to the Cotswold Baking Workshop rather than the Cotswolds Baking Workshop.
