Annabelle Thorpe 

10 of Britain’s prettiest seaside villages

Sands, seas and glorious scenery … plus ideas for the perfect bolthole near the coast
  
  

‘A jumble of red-roofed cottages opening out on to a wide stretch of beach:’ Runswick Bay, North Yorkshire.
‘A jumble of red-roofed cottages opening out on to a wide stretch of beach:’ Runswick Bay, North Yorkshire. Photograph: Alamy

Runswick Bay, North Yorkshire

A jumble of red-roofed cottages open on to a wide stretch of beach at Runswick, an under-the-radar gem. Rock pools, fossil hunting and acres of sand make it a great choice for families, and walkers can follow the Cleveland Way National Trail to Saltburn. Summer visitors should seek out the pop-up Runswick Bay Tea Garden (2 Ellerby Lane), while Runswick Bay Cottages (runswickbaycottages.co.uk) has the pick of self-catering properties.

Branscombe, Devon

Tucked into a glorious valley on the Jurassic Coast, Branscombe is a picturesque village with thatched cottages and a stream leading you through picnic-perfect meadows to a working watermill and then to the sea. Like the forge, and much of the countryside, the mill is owned by the National Trust. The shingle beach at Branscombe Mouth, dotted with colourful fishing boats, is family-friendly and has a lovely café. Venture inland or take the South West Coast Path to Beer or Sidmouth for spectacular walks. The luxurious hotel and restaurant, The Pig at Combe (thepighotel.com), is a 20-minute drive through the Devon countryside. In Branscombe itself, there’s the Masons Arms (masonsarms.co.uk), an atmospheric 14th-century pub with rooms– or stay at the NT’s thatched Forge Cottage (above, nationaltrust.org.uk), with sunshine-yellow walls, and a pretty garden.

Porthgain, Pembrokeshire

A pretty hamlet, Porthgain is a great base for walking the Pembrokeshire Coastal Path. Small, colour-washed cottages step down to the waterfront and there are two excellent small galleries – Harbour Lights and Alun Davies – specialising in works by Welsh artists. The Sloop Inn (sloop.co.uk) serves classic Welsh dishes and locally caught seafood in season. Stay at the charming Crug Glas (crug-glas.co.uk) country house, a short drive inland.

Blakeney, Norfolk

A great choice for nature and wildlife-lovers, Blakeney’s coastline forms a spectacular backdrop for the thousands of birds that come to breed and the seal colonies that prosper on Blakeney Point. Boat trips run out to the Point (hikers can reach it by a seven-mile coastal walk) and the vast sands of Holkham are 15 minutes’ drive. Enjoy freshly caught seafood at the White Horse pub, which has nine comfortable rooms (whitehorseblakeney.co.uk).

Polperro, Cornwall

Steeped in smuggling history and tucked into a natural inlet on Cornwall’s south coast, Polperro is wonderfully romantic, with narrow, car-free streets winding between old fisherman’s cottages and a wild, rocky coastline. Dip into the Polperro Heritage Museum of Smuggling and Fishing on a Wednesday (in the summer months) to catch a performance by the Polperro Fisherman’s Choir – one of Cornwall’s most famous. The Penryn House Hotel, famed for its sumptuous breakfasts, makes a comfortable base (penrynhouse.co.uk).

Mousehole, Cornwall

With narrow cobbled lanes, whitewashed cottages and a harbour dotted with brightly coloured boats, Mousehole (pronounced Mousle) might just be the archetypal Cornish fishing village. Boat trips run from the harbour and the narrow streets are dotted with art galleries. St Michael’s Mount is just 20 minutes’ drive. The Old Coastguard (oldcoastguardhotel.co.uk) is the pick of the places to stay.

Abersoch, Wales

It’s tucked away on the southeast tip of the Llŷn Peninsula in North Wales, but Abersoch is worth the journey. A chic honeypot of a place, it boasts reliable surf breaks, great views of Cardigan Bay and Snowdonia, and a vibrant shopping and eating scene. Book a table at The Cove for freshly caught seafood and stunning views, and stay at the charming Porth Tocyn (porthtocynhotel.co.uk).

Crail, Fife

It might feel sleepy now, but in medieval times Crail’s marketplace was the largest in Europe. Its history as a trading post can be seen in the Dutch-inspired architecture and the 19th-century pier. Wander the cobbled streets – called “wynds” – down to the harbour, where boats leave for the puffin and guillemot colonies. Order lobster or crab from the Lobster Hut and picnic on the harbourfront, then stay in a super-chic apartment at Courtyard at Crail (courtyardatcrail.com).

West Mersea, Essex

Seafood and nature lovers – as well as beach bunnies – flock to this unspoilt nub of land, connected to the Essex coast by road bridge at low tide, and a foot ferry in the summer months. Pleasures are simple and beachy – sandcastle-building, paddle-boarding and kayaking along the shoreline, or boat trips around the surrounding creeks. Reserve a table at the West Mersea Oyster Bar (westmerseaoysterbar.co.uk), which serves spectacular seafood platters, and stay at The Victory (victoryatmersea.co.uk), a chic pub with rooms.

Craster, Northumberland

There’s a brooding beauty to Craster, with its clutch of still-working smoke houses, and the forbidding remains of Dunstanburgh Castle rising up in the distance. Walks on the long stretch of rocky coastline can be wild and windswept or drenched in sunlight, and amateur anglers can join daily boat trips to catch cod and ling. It’s impossible to visit Craster without sampling a kipper or two – try them buttered in a bun from Pipers Pitch (piperspitch.com), or in the cosy dining room at The Jolly Fisherman, which has comfortable rooms above (thejollyfishermancraster.co.uk).

• A caption for an image in this article was amended on 15 July 2021 because an earlier version gave the location as Blakeney when it was of nearby Cley, also in Norfolk. On 24 August 2021 the picture accompanying the section on Abersoch was changed to show a beach nearer to the village.

 

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