Andrea Bak 

Where the Danes go on holiday in Denmark

Writers and artists reveal their favourite Danish islands, landscapes and seaside villages
  
  

Fishing boats on a beach near Stenbjerg.
Fishing boats on a beach near Stenbjerg. Photograph: Alamy

Stenbjerg: by journalist Andrea Bak

This is a tiny fishing village of whitewashed houses in an area of protected dune heath on the west coast of Jutland. Conservation measures have prevented the spread of holiday homes, and the village retains a period charm, with white tool sheds on the beach from the days when fishing was the villagers’ main livelihood. Commercial fishing is a thing of the past, but it is still possible to get your hands on some freshly caught fish, as some of the locals still fish from small boats in their spare time. The local inn, Stenbjerg Kro, received its royal licence in 1790 and offers rooms, bungalows and a menu of local produce – smoked venison, pickled herring. But the landscape is the real attraction – you can walk for miles and miles without meeting anyone and hearing nothing but the wind rustling in the lyme grass and the heather, and the roaring of the North Sea. True bliss.

How to get there
There are direct flights to Aalborg from Manchester, Bristol, Edinburgh, Birmingham, Stansted and Gatwick. Hire a car for the rest of the 72-mile journey, as public transport is limited. If you don’t drive, take a bus to Thisted and then on to Stenbjerg.
• For guided walks and more info, visit eng.nationalparkthy.dk

Fjellerup: by novelist Lone Theils

Fjellerup, in eastern Jutland, has a wonderful forest for long walks, and the beach has calm, shallow water. I also love the roadside stands with strawberries, peas and potatoes: you just take what you need and put the money in a box. There are tent pitches and cabins at Fjellerup Strand Camping (pitch and two adults from £25, basic cabin for six from £300 a week).

How to get there
There are direct flights to Aarhus from Stansted. From there, either hire a car for the 18-mile drive or take a bus.

Odsherred: by artist Jesper Christiansen

The landscape in Odsherred, in the north of Zealand, is a huge inspiration for me. I never tire of the view when I ride my bike, and when I paddle my kayak along the coast on a quiet morning. The shore and the rolling hills look exactly like one of the huge paintings from the Danish Golden Age.

Odsherred has a lot to offer, from sandy beaches, arts and crafts and amusement parks to local farmers’ markets and fine dining. I started doing more and more of my work up here, so my wife, who is a novelist, and I decided to move from Copenhagen and make a permanent home of our holiday place in the village of Abildøre.

How to get there
Fly to Copenhagen and get the train onwards to Nykøbing Sjælland, from where local buses go around Odsherred. Or rent a car at the airport and do the 60-mile drive yourself. Stay at the quaint Højby Kro Inn (doubles from £104 B&B).

visitodsherred.dk

Tversted: by DJ Katrine Ring

Tversted is a village in north-west Jutland that is famous for its ice-cream shop, Det Blå Ishus. People travel miles to taste its homemade guf, a pink, marshmallowy sauce poured over the ice-cream. This part of Jutland has some of Europe’s best beaches, so it gets busy in summer. But in autumn, the village hosts a small jazz festival, Jazzy Days (13-20 Oct), with local bands and international stars jamming after hours. Hotel Tannishus has flats five minutes’ walk from the beach, from £82 a night. There is good dining – three types of herring, scallops in gooseberry sauce – at Villa Vest in Løkken, 22 miles to the south.

How to get there
Fly to Aalborg (see above). Take the train to Sindal and from there go by bus. Or rent a car at the airport for the 45-mile drive.

Samsø: by Paul Cunningham, chef at Henne Kirkeby Kro

Apart from being the sunniest spot in Denmark, the small island of Samsø, in the Kattegat Sea between Jutland and Zealand, exudes a calm unlike any other place. My working life is very busy, and I feel the pace of life slowly winding down when I get off the ferry with my family. It is pure bliss.

Samsø is lush and most of the produce grown here is shipped all over Denmark. Especially famous are the potatoes, the basis for the popular open-faced potato sandwich, kartoffelmad. Stay at the tiny Sommerhotel (doubles from £101 B&B) in Ballen, in the south of the island where the ferry docks, or Ilse Made (doubles from £114 B&B) in the west, which has fantastic sea views.

How to get there
Fly to Copenhagen and take the train to Kalundborg and from there take the ferry to Ballen. There is no need for a car on Samsø as the island is so small. Rent a bike instead, or – if you want to take it really easy – a horse and covered wagon for as many days as you like.
• See visitsamsoe.dk for more info

 

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