In a nutshell
A heritage steam railway that runs for six and a half miles, via four stations, between Bodmin General and Boscarne Junction. Cornwall’s only full-size railway still regularly operated by steam locomotives, it’s mostly run by volunteers. Stop off along the line for walks, a visit to a vineyard (Camel Valley), picnics and bike rides.
Fun fact
The line’s oldest locomotive (number 30587) was built in 1874 (by Beyer Peacock in Glasgow) and was originally sent to Cornwall by sea as the mainline hadn’t reached north Cornwall then.
Best thing(s) about it
The locomotives: only the most cynical, hardened tourist would fail to enjoy the shiny, chuffing engines, the carriages’ wooden benches and plush patterned material – or the sound of the driver’s whistle.
What about lunch?
Food-wise you’re stepping back in time to an era that predates the soy flat white. Thank goodness. At Bodmin General the cramped Steamers Cafe serves baps (£3), jacket potatoes (£4.95), beans on toast (£3.30) and pasties. The menu is similar at the Signal Box Cafe, a listed Victorian building on the platform at Bodmin Parkway, with toasties (around £3), pasties (£2.90) and cakes. The bacon sarnies (£2.60) are said to be the finest between Paddington and Penzance.
Exit through the gift shop?
There’s a giftshop on the platform at Bodmin General selling model trains and figures, books, mugs, wooden toys, badges, T-shirts, prints and twee signs for the house (for example, Kitchen closed due to illness; I’m sick of cooking).
Getting there?
Bodmin Parkway is on the Great Western Railway (GWR) route between Plymouth and Penzance. It is possible to buy a mainline ticket and a ticket for the Bodmin & Wenford Railway at all mainline ticket offices, just ask for one to the Bodmin & Wenford Railway, not just Bodmin Parkway. The Camel estuary trail runs through Bodmin so you could cycle. Bodmin General is the only station with a car park: it’s free for rail passengers.
Value for money?
Better value on a dry day when you’ll be more inclined to stop off en route for walks and picnics. A freedom of the line ticket costs £13.50 (adult), £6.50 (3-16s), and £1 (dog).
Opening hours
Passenger services run 210 days a year. Times vary depending on the season, so check the website first. There are also special events such as jazz and beer; cream teas and murder-mystery evenings.
Verdict
A trip to a heritage steam train should be prescribed for all commuters by the NHS as an antidote to the misery and frustration caused by most British rail services. In the UK, it’s a rare pleasure to stand on a platform and feel a sense of childlike joy at the sight of a train pulling in.
9/10