Fans of period drama would recognise the old stone cottages and cobbled streets of Lacock: the picturesque Wiltshire village in the southern Cotswolds has been the filming location for Pride and Prejudice, Cranford and Downtown Abbey. Much of it dates from the 13th century, it’s almost entirely owned by the National Trust and the winding lanes feel like a film set.

So does my home for the night, the Sign of the Angel, a 15th-century coaching inn that has kept much of its medieval character, with its half-timbered facade, mullioned windows and ancient doorway opening on to a low-ceilinged stone corridor.

Operated as a restaurant with rooms for many years, the inn was closed for a while until two local brothers, Tom and Jack Nicholas, and chef Jon Furby took over and breathed new life into the place, reopening in 2014 after a sensitive refurb.

If it’s romantic, historic character you’re after, this place has is it in spades – from wonky, creaky floors, to huge stone fireplaces and a tiny twisty staircase leading up to the five bedrooms. Our room is cosy and neat, the designer has made the most of the limited space and kept original features intact. Behind a wooden door I mistake for a cupboard is a small bath; another door hides the toilet. I feel a bit like Alice in Wonderland after her growth spurt – if you’re on the tall side, mind your head. Touches of luxury come in the duck-feather pillows, comfy bed and Roberts radio.

Outside, the cuteness continues in the prettiest of gardens, complete with babbling brook and – as if on cue – ducks waddling over a bridge (a perfect spot to indulge in a cream tea). The beamed candlelit dining area is split into three spaces so retains an intimate feel – but here the inn moves into the 21st century, with a modern British menu. A starter of avocado panna cotta, house-smoked king prawns and grapefruit dressing is light, fresh and tasty (£9); the main of steamed plaice with crab and chilli cake (£18.50) comes with asparagus picked straight from the kitchen garden (Jon uses local suppliers and, increasingly, home-grown produce).

Lunch is good value: two courses for £18 or three for £21. Breakfast is a treat, too – a small buffet with mini Dorset cereal boxes and pastries, plus bacon on ciabatta or poached haddock with eggs and muffin among cooked options.

Lacock itself is so quaint it verges on twee, with signs of the good old days everywhere: on a bench opposite the inn, £1 bags of lavender lie next to an honesty box, and a stall at the end of the street is laden with homemade sweets – donations welcome.

The main attraction is 13th-century Lacock Abbey, set in beautiful woods and gardens. Scenes for two Harry Potter movies were filmed in the striking golden cloisters.

The abbey was once home to William Henry Fox Talbot, the inventor of the photographic negative, and there’s also a museum dedicated to the history of photography.

This time-warp spot was home to a more recent trendsetter, too: YouTube millionaire and vlogger Zoella grew up in the village – maybe the internet was an escape from too much history.

Before leaving, we check out the inn’s oak-panelled sitting room. Antique furniture, stone floors and a vast fireplace make it a special place to linger over a drink. Guests Diane and Matthew are poring over an old photo album seeing if they can spot changes to the room – they met here 35 years ago on a trip with a group of friends and are celebrating their 25th wedding anniversary.

“We arrived single and left as a couple,” they grin. Testament, perhaps, to the romance the Angel and Lacock so effortlessly casts.

• Accommodation was provided by The Sign of the Angel (doubles from £110 B&B, 01249-730230, signoftheangel.co.uk)

Ask a local

Jean Sheard, owner, Lacock Bakery

• See
The oldest building in the village is King John’s Hunting Lodge. It has a lovely tea room with a garden.

• Walk
Start by the church and cross the Bide Brook ford, then walk up the hill to the kissing gate for views of the abbey. Take a picnic to eat by the river.

• Shop
A great place to pick up a gift is Quintessentially English on West Street. It’s in a very old building and sells organic handmade soaps and other products. Jewellery at family-run Watling Goldsmiths on East Street is made in a workshop upstairs. Their gallery next door sells everything from necklaces to glassware at more affordable prices.