The magic of Mallorca and the July atmosphere made me buy an orange farm there, on a whim. I was on holiday with my wife and we were driving through the mountains in the south-west, between Andratx and Cap Deia, when we stumbled upon it. The next day we signed the contract for it. We were farmers in East Lothian and had to sell – the 1980s recession had hit hard – but this was an impulsive move. Six months later, we moved here with our sons.
We returned to a freak snowfall. We also discovered most of our trees were diseased. It was only thanks to the warmth and help of the local farmers that we survived. But we fell in love with Mallorca and the island features in many of my books – five in the Snowball Oranges series, a historical novel, and several others.
We arrived full of British get up and go and tried to work all day in the orchards. Mallorca is known as l’illa de la calma and we soon learned to adopt the local laid-back attitude. We’d work early and in the evenings; in between, we’d drive to the mountains where it was cooler. In the villages, look for bars with tradesmen’s vans outside to find an authentic, cheap lunch.
A lot of place names sound Arabic because Mallorca was ruled by the Moors for 300 years. Binissalem, for example, is at the heart of the wine industry – you can visit its bodegas and vineyards. Lots of sweets date from then, too, like the ensaimada, a round and delicious pastry. Try the best ones at Hostal de Algaida, opposite the Ca’l Dimoni.
Sóller is the centre of Mallorcan orange growing. It’s a beautiful valley in the Tramuntana mountains, particularly gorgeous in January or February when the oranges are ripe. It looks like a green blanket speckled with orange. There’s an old open tram from Sóller to Port de Sóller, and you can pick oranges as you travel through the groves (but don’t be too greedy!).
Mallorcans are very good at welcoming strangers: it’s part of their personality. The island has been invaded by everyone from Phoenicians to Visigoths, Romans to Arabs and, in more recent times, hordes of tourists.
There aren’t many pretty places on the coast that haven’t been developed. One is Port de Valldemossa, which has a simple, shingle beach and restaurant. Nearby Port des Canonge is another. Both are down steep, windy roads, but give you an idea of what fishing hamlets used to be like.
The Jardines de Alfabia, outside Bunyola, also date from Moorish times. The Moors brought art, architecture, astronomy, medicine, engineering before the Christians drove them out in the 13th century. I became a bit obsessed by this period in history and wrote a novel based on the reconquista. It’s kept alive with fiestas and mock battles, lighthearted stuff, but obviously it was a bloody affair.
Valldemossa is where George Sand went with her lover, Frédéric Chopin, in 1838, to help him fight TB. They spent a winter in a monastery there. He had a piano sent from Paris and composed in one of the cells, which you can visit.
On Sundays everyone goes into the country for big family lunches. There are lots of places on the road from Palma to Manacor, but my favourite is Ca’l Dimoni, near Algaida. Demons are part of local folklore and the walls are decorated with this theme. It’s not fancy but there’s hearty food and a lively atmosphere. Lamb or suckling pig roasted on an olive wood grill are local specialities.
Port de Sóller is a lovely bay and fishing port. At the back, a place called Sóller Garden has a restaurant, pool and bungalows like Swiss chalets in its sub-tropical gardens. It’s used a lot by hikers (doubles are €80 B&B).
Mountain monasteries offer a simple, good value night’s stay. They usually have basic restaurants and even a bar. We used to go to one at the top of Monte Randa (franciscanostor.org) and the Santuari de Lluc in the north is a famous one. They’re worth a visit, just for the views.
Inca is the centre of the shoemaking industry. You can get there on the train that runs from Palma to Sóller. It has several fantastic old wine cellars converted into restaurants, too. Celler Ca’n Amer has won prizes.
For a bird’s-eye view of Palma, go for a drink or meal at Kaskai restaurant on the outskirts of town. It’s a bit of a scary drive up a steep road but the views are like being in an aeroplane. In Palma itself, go to Celler Sa Premsa – premsa means press, and there’s a big olive press at the entrance. It’s great for authentic food and a similar atmosphere to those country restaurants I love.
• A new edition of Peter Kerr’s Snowball Oranges is published by Summersdale (£9.99) and is available at bookshop theguardian.com for £8.49 inc UK p&p
