We looked underwater and understood Rainbow river’s colourful name. Shafts of late afternoon sun tipped blades of lime green eelgrass with gold, while silver bubbles trailed behind our flippers in the blue water. Every day, over 400m gallons of crystal-clear water well up and out of the river’s springs in Rainbow Springs state park.

Florida has possibly the highest concentration of springs in the world, with over 900. Streams formed from springs are called spring runs, and about 100 of these can be swum. Some springs release enough water to fuel rivers.

A long weekend is enough time to explore a selection of springs that are within a few hours’ drive of each other, between Orlando and Lake City. We used Melissa Watson’s Touring the Springs of Florida as our guidebook, and camping in state parks and private campsites put springs on our doorstep every morning. Those travelling without a tent can easily book cabins or bungalows – see the links below.

In summer, Florida’s springs are crowded with local people cooling off. At 20-22C the water is a respite from humid air temperatures of 28C-plus. In winter, air temperatures hover around 15C and springs are crowd-free. Winter is also when manatees, marine mammals that look like clumsily drawn seals, migrate from the sea to the relatively warm temperature of the springs and spring-fed rivers (rising from underground, spring water stays at the same temperature year round).

Ichetucknee head spring is one of the springs that feeds the Ichetucknee river, a national natural landmark. We were the only swimmers there on a January day, but a few hikers stopped to chat and enjoy the sunshine in the forest clearing surrounding the spring. Red cardinal flowers bobbed in the water, which was so clear it was impossible to judge how deep it was. A 400-metre walk further through the forest led to the Blue Hole spring, which is surrounded by trees and looks like a sunken meadow encircling a blue pool. The spring is only 12 metres deep but around 10,000 litres of water a minute flow out of it.

After stopping at Richard’s Place in Ocala for a southern breakfast of biscuits and gravy, we drove 30 minutes to Juniper springs recreation area, rented a canoe and set off down Juniper creek. At first the water was so shallow we could see grains of sand bubbling out of the springs from the sandy bottom. One of the reasons swimming isn’t allowed in Juniper creek is that it might disturb the delicate sand boils where spring water emerges. Turtles were perched in lines along branches as they sunned themselves by the water. We heard a crash in the forest and then saw a deer leap across the creek in front of us. Further down the seven-mile canoe trail was a basking alligator – the other reason no swimming is allowed in Juniper creek.

Any body of fresh or brackish water in Florida potentially has an alligator in it, though they tend to be wary of people and usually retreat or keep their distance. If you see an alligator at a spring, if there has been a recent report of one, or there are “No swimming” signs up, then do not swim. Florida Fish and Wildlife Conservation advises paying attention to your surroundings, sticking to designated swimming areas, and avoiding swimming at night.

While Juniper creek is not for swimming, the 40-metre long oval pool of Juniper spring is. Among the picnic tables and palm trees of the Juniper Springs recreation area, tiny fish patrol the pool’s edge. Once in the water, its concrete walls are easily ignored as the pool is large and swirls of eelgrass carpet its sandy bottom. On the side of the old mill house is a waterwheel, which used to generate electricity from the spring’s flow for the campsite.

Tipped off by other campers that manatees had arrived in Manatee Springs state park, we headed north-west to look for them. From one of the viewing platforms next to the spring run we watched a pair of manatees moving ponderously upstream as they grazed on eelgrass. After swimming in the spring, we ate barbecued ribs fresh from the smoker run by Anderson’s Outdoor Adventures next to the spring.

Ginnie Springs Outdoors is a campsite containing several springs where swimmers are welcome. Even on the overcast day we swam in it, Ginnie spring was an eye-catching turquoise pool. A short walk took us to Little Devil spring run. We swam 100 metres down the run, which teamed with fish and turtles, to Devil’s Eye spring, an underwater hole from which water flows out. We saw a few cave divers emerging in clouds of bubbles from Devil’s Eye after they had explored the cave system to which the spring is the entrance. At the end of the spring run its crystal-clear water visibly swirled into the contrasting black water of the Santa Fe river, which was stained with tannin from fallen leaves.

Florida’s springs have had moments in the spotlight. Esther Williams, the swimming champion who became an actor, filmed scenes for Jupiter’s Darling in Silver springs; and women dressed as mermaids still perform in Weeki Wachee Spring’s underwater theatre. But I only heard about the springs because a Floridian friend saw a photo of me swimming in a spring-fed Turkish river and lured me to Florida by showing me a photo of people frolicking in Ichetucknee Springs state park. Only last year Florida was recognised as part of a biodiversity hotspot by the Critical Ecosystem Partnership Fund. It is time to explore Florida’s wilderness, including its wild swimming paradise of springs.

Accessibility
De Leon springs has a ramp and lift for wheelchair access. Many springs can be accessed via flat paths followed by steps with a handrail down into the water. Further information on accessible amenities in Florida state parks; contact privately-owned springs directly.

Where to stay
Ginnie Springs Outdoors (pitches $21.34, adult, $6 child; cottage sleeps up to 8, from $175 a night for up to four, each additional adult $21.34 or $6 per child). Yurt Tree House, on the Santa Fe river, costs $200 a couple for two nights (preferred) or $125 a night off-peak