The first time I realised there was something going on musically in South Africa was 2008, when I went there to play with a Nigerian afrobeat band called Ayetoro. Before, when I thought about South Africa my mind immediately went to the old greats, such as Abdullah Ibrahim or Hugh Masekela; but all of a sudden I realised there was a big scene, with younger musicians doing great stuff. I had to go back.
For the past four years I’ve been going to South Africa twice a year, to Johannesburg and Cape Town, for a couple of months at a time. I met a girl from South Africa and we started a long-distance relationship; that’s when I started going back. I would start playing with musicians there and trying to put on my own gigs. That’s where I met most of the players who appear on my new album [Wisdom of Elders].
Johannesburg musicians have a restless energy. It’s a big city and not as picturesque or tranquil as Cape Town; coming from London it’s more like what I’m used to.
The city is strange because it feels quite cold, architecturally. There are lots of city blocks. There’s not an area like Dalston or Shoreditch, there are just small pockets of cool things to do all around.
In South Africa it’s like the audience is a part of the band. If I look at it through the lens of jazz, it looks like people are really receptive to performers giving everything they have. It’s as if someone is there with you while you’re on stage – like a hype man, or a personal trainer.
Johannesburg has a lot of creative startups and music initiatives at a grassroots level. Friends of mine who play free jazz run an event called Avant Guarde at King Kong in Jeppestown: the audience listens to avant garde jazz records and a band plays afterwards.
Afrikan Freedom Station is probably my favourite venue. It’s a tiny place – just a room with a small PA – but it gets in creative musicians. It’s based around jazz, but not necessarily jazz in that very straight, stiff way. It’s run by a guy called Steve Kwena Mokwena, a visual artist and writer. He’s got art pieces upstairs and live music downstairs. It’s where I played the first gig with my band, the Ancestors, the day before we recorded. It has a real special energy.
The Orbit was, I think, the first dedicated jazz club in Johannesburg, in the classic jazz model. In the UK we’re used to places like that, but I guess over there to have jazz played six nights a week is a special thing. There’s still a vibe at The Orbit … a real atmosphere.
I’ve seen a couple of amazing shows at the Curiocity Backpackers hostel. One was a band called the Brother Moves On who I play with when they tour the UK.
At Newtown Junction you’ll find a lot of independent fashion shops. One brand, MaXhosa by Laduma, makes clothes in traditional Xhosa patterns – knitwear, normally. It’s very beautiful.
It’s a strange thing that the city itself is perceived as so violent, because people in Johannesburg are so warm and open. I definitely found that; you might be waiting in a line, or riding a taxi, and you’ll have a great chat with someone.
One musician to check out if you’re visiting is Tumi Mogorosi – he’s the drummer on our album. Then there’s the singer, Siyabonga Mthembu, and an amazing trombonist and singer who’s not on the album – though I wish she was – called Siya Makuzeni. Her music is jazz based, and her songs are incredible. It’s a special experience to see her play.
• Wisdom of Elders by Shabaka and the Ancestors is out now on Brownswood Recordings; shabakaandtheancestors.bandcamp.com
