British gin is synonymous with London. However, in recent years, more than two-thirds of the UK’s total gin production has moved outside the capital – and outside England altogether. Scotland is now at the heart of the British gin industry, home to two of the world’s largest brands (Gordon’s and Tanqueray) but also to an array of craft gin distillers: currently more than 25. In the past two years, half a dozen new craft gins have reached the shelves, from names such as Crossbill and Heather Rose. There’s even a fresh venture to celebrate from the Isle of Jura, where three women have established Lussa Gin, using 15 botanicals from the hills and lochs, woods and coastline of the island.
To reflect this rise in Scottish craft gin, the Wine and Spirit Trade Association (WSTA) has launched the Scotland Gin Trail. The route’s 17 stopoffs include craft distilleries and gin bars across Scotland, from the bright lights of Glasgow Distillery (a young producer that launched its first spirit, Makar Glasgow Gin, in 2014) to the dark skies of Shetland Reel Gin (the UK’s most northerly distillery).
Those who follow the trail can discover the diversity of Scotland’s gins. For example, on the north coast, Dunnet Bay Distillery creates the delicate, aromatic Rock Rose Gin, which has earned awards for husband-and-wife team Martin and Claire Murray. Meanwhile, Eden Mill in St Andrew’s prefers to challenge palates with one-of-a-kind craft creations such as Golf Gin, which is “flavoured with retired golf clubs” – hickory shavings from clubs are added to the botanicals.
A great place to begin is Edinburgh Gin, a distillery and visitor centre close to the castle. Gin enthusiasts can tour the distillery (tickets from £10), peeking into the two copper stills, Flora and Caledonia, before heading into the Heads and Tales basement bar for a tutored tasting of the navy-strength Cannonball Gin, Seaside Gin (which incorporates coastal botanicals) and or its own eponymous gin, which is distilled with heather, milk thistle and pine.
Gin in Scotland is nothing new. The juniper-flavoured Dutch spirit genever first arrived in Edinburgh in the 1600s, and was gleefully embraced. When a tax on imported spirits cut off the supply, entrepreneurial locals began to craft their own cheap, readily available versions, and helped usher in an era of mass drunkenness and moral hand-wringing across the UK, known as the Gin Craze. But then in the late 18th century, Scots discovered a taste for whisky, and gin lost out.
Until now. The release of the South Ayrshire-made Hendrick’s Gin in 1999 signalled the start of a new era for gin in Scotland, and the past few years have seen further development and new ventures. The WSTA trail puts gin back on the map – and enables visitors to see and enjoy so much of the great landscape that inspires the producers.
• Follow the Scotland Gin Trail
Gin up: 12 stops to discover on the Scotland Gin Trail
Gordon Castle, Fochabers, Moray
This famous Highland estate uses the produce of its own walled herb garden to create Gordon Castle Gin, an award-winning, small-batch aromatic gin.
• gordoncastlescotland.com
Arbikie Highland Estate Distillery, Inverkeilor, Angus
Arbikie is owned by a family of farmers, so everything that goes into Kirsty’s Gin, named for its master distiller, is grown on site.
• arbikie.com
Shetland Reel Gin, Unst, Shetland
On the UK’s most northerly island, this distillery infuses its gins with the scents and tastes of Shetland, from seaweed to apple mint.
• shetlandreel.com
Balmenach Distillery, Cromdale, Moray
Balmenach’s Caorunn Gin walks on the wild side, with infusions of 13 foraged Highland botanicals, from heather to dandelion.
• caorunngin.com
Crossbill Highland Distilling, Inshriach, Aviemore
Launched in 2014, Crossbill lays claim to be the only gin made from 100% Scottish juniper and rosehip.
• crossbillgin.com
Eden Mill, St Andrews
This combined brewery and distillery revels in unorthodox craft gins, from the pink-tinted Love Gin to the beer-inspired Hop Gin.
• edenmill.com
Edinburgh Gin Distillery, Edinburgh
Edinburgh Gin produces a superb selection of handcrafted gins, including seasonal bottlings such as a frankincense- and myrrh-distilled Christmas Gin and a floral, pink-tinted Valentine’s Gin.
• edinburghgindistillery.co.uk
Glasgow Distillery, Glasgow
Head to Scotland’s largest city for Makar Glasgow Gin; the distinctive juniper kick makes it ideal for dry martinis.
• glasgowdistillery.com
Dunnet Bay Distillery, Dunnet, Caithness
Dunnet Bay’s Rock Rose gin, a traditional gin with clear notes of juniper and citrus, was released in 2014, but has already collected a host of awards.
• dunnetbaydistillers.co.uk
Gin71, Glasgow
Glasgow’s first dedicated gin bar serves 71 gins in an opulent Victorian setting of high ornamental ceilings, tiled walls and chandeliers.
• gin71.com
Firkin Gin and The Jolly Botanist, Edinburgh
Opened last year (a symbol of gin’s growing status in Scotland), the Jolly Botanist has a 72-strong gin list, including the oak-infused dry Firkin Gin.
• thejollybotanist.co.uk
Strathearn Distillery, Methven, Perth
Strathearn specialises in gins with a twist, from Heather Rose, which turns pink when tonic is added, to Oaked Highland Gin, with a smokiness reminiscent of scotch (it is even served in a whisky glass).
• strathearndistillery.com