Just 20 minutes from Jerez airport, El Puerto de Santa María is an often overlooked, whitewashed town on the Bay of Cádiz, with empty beaches that bring to mind Charlton Heston falling to his knees and crying “God damn you all to hell” in Planet of the Apes.

It’s in the “sherry triangle” and has bodegas to visit – Osborne and Gutiérrez-Colosía are the most well-known – and excellent restaurants. Two-Michelin-starred Aponiente, in an 18th-century mill and specialising in seafood, was rated “worth a plane ride” by the New York Times; El Arriate, in the centre of town, serves gourmet contemporary Spanish fare without the gourmet prices. But, it’s not for the charming town, restaurants or beaches that I make an annual pilgrimage here: I go for Monkey Week, a music festival held every October.

The brainchild of local residents Paco (Martínez) Loco, owner and producer at Paco Loco Studio, and singer-songwriter Enrique Bunbury, it has more than 200 bands playing on 13 stages – in every bar and available outside space. It’s open to up-and-coming Spanish bands, and to a few international guests too, as a giant showcase event. Bands put a mind-blowing amount of effort into to their slot on stage. The Ships, The Loud Residents and Mikel Erentxun are among those who’ll turn up to play to supportive and appreciative crowds. Drinks are cheap, venues are all within walking distance, and all music tastes and genres are covered. There are no music curfews here: the bands in El Puerto rock night and day. No holidaying music lover should miss it.
• This year Monkey Week takes place in Seville, from 13-15 October 2016

The Mining Co’s debut album, Burning Sun & the Atomic Powers Within, is out now