I know this is Cambridge, not Oxford, but from where I’m standing I can see five spires, a tall chapel tower (St John’s) and the lush grass of Jesus Green. It looks pretty dreamy.

I’m at the open floor-to-ceiling window of our bedroom at the Varsity, the boutique hotel opened in 2010 in a riverside spot between St John’s and Magdalene colleges. Its attached spa and steakhouse are in a 17th-century former brewery, redesigned by Conran and Partners, but the bedrooms, in the 21st-century section, are modern, though in a way that complements rather than clashes with the old stone all around.

With its bachelor-pad vibe, the room could be the hangout of a high-flying Cambridge graduate who’s made it big in the City – picture windows, oak flooring, designer wallpaper, copies of Tatler, painting of bright young things at a May Ball. Creature comforts include Illy coffee for the cafetière, snazzy crockery, a cork-bottomed teapot that I’m tempted to pinch, and a big Hypnos bed overlooked only by pigeons on the roof opposite (we’re on the fourth of six floors).

That City maths whizz wouldn’t turn his nose up at the all-white bathroom either: rain shower, clawfoot bath, Elemis toiletries, and cutely distressed side table to stop it being too clinical.

The Varsity set out to offer all things to well-heeled Cambridge visitors – academics, businesspeople, parents – and in many ways it succeeded. The spa offers yoga and pilates classes, a gym under the original trussed wooden roof, and a Jacuzzi behind one-way glass with a view of strollers along the Cam outside. (Sporting memorabilia on the corridor includes Harold Abrahams’ 1924 Olympic medal: he was at Gonville & Caius college, a few minutes’ walk away.) The rooftop bar, with its 360-degree views of architectural glories, is the go-to place for Cambridge celebrations from doctorates to biotech contracts (the Beckhams put in an appearance earlier this year). The Riverside steakhouse, overseen by kilted head chef Angus Martin, carefully curates its 28-day dry-aged beef, and grilled fish.

But the high-protein blowout of the steakhouse felt a bit noughties – and a rooftop bar requires the sort of balmy evenings rarely seen in the UK.

So a “teen” decade update – with dining preferences leaning towards lighter meals – comes in the form of Six, a more casual restaurant on, doh, the sixth floor, opened last month. As well as pizzas, rotisserie chicken and small plates, it offers views from floor-to-ceiling windows that can be enjoyed on bright January days and rainy July ones.

We’re lucky to have a warmish evening for sundowner G&Ts on the roof – spotting landmarks with a handy guide – then stroll down a floor to Six and a table with a view south to King’s College.

The small plates all sound intriguing, if wordy: burrata with maple-roasted figs and bruschetta; roasted aubergine with yoghurt, pickled lemon and pistachio. Husband wolfs down “seared tuna, mixed green beans, roasted olives, confit garlic and toasted hazelnuts” almost faster than you can say it. Veal meatballs with lemon and gorgonzola are a particular hit.

Six has only been open a few weeks and some wrinkles need ironing out. Pizza bases are spongy yet tough: the table rocks as people saw at their crusts. Out-there toppings include sugar-cured salmon and kimchi, and to my mind, neither spit-roast lamb nor a combo of roasted broccoli and almonds has any place on a pizza.

The emptying of recycling bins and a prompt start for builders across the road have us awake early next morning, but this gives us leisure to appreciate breakfast. When my colleague Sally Shalam came here in 2011, she complained of its dismal chain-hotel offering. What a difference five years makes: the spread included in the room rate is splendid. Enticing meats, cheeses, breads, pastries, granolas, and just-made fruit salad. Interesting (pricey) extras include vegetarian, gluten-free and “Aussie” fry-ups (around £10), ricotta hotcakes (£9.50), and the mandatory smashed avocado with poached egg (£8).

Add in super-helpful staff, high design and enviable location and the Varsity was already looking at a creditable 2:1. Once Six gets into gear, it could be a first-class option. And at Cambridge that’s quite an achievement.

• Accommodation was provided by the Varsity Hotel (doubles from £159B&B, 01223 30 60 30, thevarsityhotel.co.uk)

Ask a local

Freya Jewitt, Kettle’s Yard House and Gallery

• Eat & drink
My favourite places to eat and drink are on Bene’t Street. 6 Ice Cream churns fresh gelato every day, each batch taking 10 minutes, and the flavours and toppings are incredible. Sicilian cafe Aromi is great for a slab of pizza or parmigiana. For gin and craft beers, head to the Pint Shop, with its beer garden at the back.

• Culture
Among the many city centre museums, Classical Archaeology is a bit of a hidden gem. The Heong Gallery is a beautiful new space for modern art at Downing College. Every summer, Jesus College hosts a contemporary sculpture exhibition.

• Do
Escape the city with a walk, punt or cycle along the meadows to Grantchester, or spend hours in the Botanic Garden. In term time, the Institute of Astronomy does free open evenings, where visitors can look through its telescopes.

• This article was amended on 25 July 2016 to correct the spelling of Magdalene college.