To say that in the 25 years since Glasgow was named European city of culture it has transformed itself into an artistic powerhouse would not be an overstatement. The city’s artistic and cultural scene is one of the most diverse in the UK outside of London, but it has none of the elitism and snobbery that some say is rife in the capital. So, it is fitting that on Monday (7 December), the Turner prize will be presented there for the first time. Especially so because in the past two decades Glasgow School of Art (GSA) has produced no fewer than 18 Turner Prize winners and nominees.
Whether you are a fan of contemporary art or more traditional painting and sculpture, there’s something for everyone. In fact, during an art-filled weekend in Glasgow I feel more engaged with the art world than I have for a long time – probably since I studied art history at university (where Scotland’s role in the art world was barely touched upon).
At a time when London’s cultural dominance is being questioned by curators angered by the fact that 90% of the nation’s art is in storage rather than shared with regional galleries, Glasgow quietly and confidently makes the point that the capital really is not the be-all and end-all.
It’s worth stating upfront that it is impossible to see everything Glasgow has to offer art lovers in two days. We pack it in, but Glasgow merits return visits, not just because of the culture on offer but because of the many excellent bars and restaurants. My boyfriend and I arrived late on a Friday evening and, after checking in to the Malmaison hotel, in a converted church, we head straight to Hanoi Bike Shop, a restaurant that comes highly recommended by almost everyone I meet for its Vietnamese street food made with local Scottish ingredients.
This, I think, is modern Scotland, though our weekend is not entirely free from cliche. Ashton Lane is a cobbled backstreet in Glasgow’s West End that’s teaming with pubs and bars – one of which we pop in to just in time for a raucous live rendition of The Proclaimers’ I’m Gonna Be (500 Miles) by the entire clientele. But as cliches go, it’s impossible not to smile at.
Next day we have an unconventional but delicious brunch at Glaswegian milliner William Chambers’s favourite place, Babu Bombay Street Kitchen. It’s almost next door to the Compass Gallery, the city’s first contemporary art gallery, founded as a co-operative by collector Cyril Gerber in the late 1960s and now run by his daughter Jill. It shows a mixture of works by established artists and new graduates, all brilliantly curated. I’m particularly taken with the nature paintings of Japanese artist Naoko Shibuya (Compass has a stall at the London art fair between 20-24 January).
Just around the corner is the Glasgow Art Club, a stunning building with interior features by Charles Rennie Mackintosh, which has long been a meeting place for creative types and has a regular programme of events and exhibitions (private tours are also available). On the same street is the commercial gallery Scotlandart, which has a show of contemporary Scottish landscape paintings. I am particularly mesmerised by Christine Clark’s Nocturne, which I would buy on the spot if I could afford the £4,000 price tag. Even with payments spread over 10 months, thanks to the Arts Council-supported Own Art scheme, it’s sadly too much for me, but I love it.
The next stop on our itinerary (it’s worth getting hold of a free art map from peoplemakeglasgow.com) is the Gallery of Modern Art – GoMA, where we enjoy Devils in the Making, an exhibition of works made in the city since Douglas Gordon became the first Scottish artist to win the Turner Prize in 1996.
After that, we head to the Lighthouse, Scotland’s national centre for design and architecture, which hosts the Mackintosh Centre, a space celebrating one of Glasgow’s most famous architect. For Mackintosh fans, a stop by the Willow Tea Rooms and the Hunterian Art Gallery (which has an excellent collection of the works of Whistler and the Glasgow Boys and Girls) is a must.
For some insider tips, I drop by artist and designer Iona Crawford’s showroom. Against the wall is a portrait of Crawford, who is firmly plugged into the art scene, painted by Gerard Burns. She talks about her collaboration with the sculptor Andy Scott (his Kelpies horse sculptures, Scotland’s largest public art installations, are in Falkirk, half an hour away by train), before firing off recommendations for dinner and drinks. We must, she says, have a cocktail at the Centre for Contemporary Arts, followed by Arbroath smokies at Cafe Gandolfi, which boasts stained glass windows by John Clark and furniture by Tim Stead.
Next is Tramway – a tramshed converted into a vast, white-walled gallery – and the Turner nominees. My favourite work is a housing project by a collective called Assemble, in collaboration with residents of the Granby Four Streets project, in Liverpool. I hope it wins. The smokies we eat at Gandolfi afterwards are, as promised, delicious.
If the weather is fine, there is no better way to spend a Sunday than on one of the GSA’s walking tours. Its Glasgow Style Tour explores the architecture and design of Mackintosh and others as seen from the city’s streets, while the Glasgow Miracle Tour looks at the contemporary art scene via brutalist architecture, Douglas Gordon’s neon Empire installation and the Trongate 103 arts centre. Unfortunately, we are confronted with torrential rain, so decide to visit the Kelvingrove Art Gallery and Museum, with its works by Picasso, Gaugin, Monet, Van Gogh and Rembrandt. We leave the city on Sunday afternoon feeling that we have only skimmed the surface of the city’s vast cultural offerings (and far too few of its bars). I have no doubt I will be back soon.
• The trip was provided by Glasgow City marketing bureau (peoplemakeglasgow.com)
Glasgow, by those who know it best
First on Iona Crawford’s list is the House for an Art Lover, the Mackintosh-designed country retreat situated in Glasgow’s Bellahouston Park, which she describes as “one of his most ethereal and romantic accomplishments. A serene paradise for architectural enthusiasts, arts buffs, green-fingered explorers, gastronomes and lovers of tea and cake.” The Thistle Gallery is also a favourite.
For food, Crawford loves The Ox and Finch in Finnieston and for a drink, the Salisbury in Glasgow’s lesser-publicised Southside.The bar has an impressive and inviting array of gins, she says. For shopping, Starry, Starry Night is, according to Crawford, the city’s finest vintage emporium.
Street artist Rogue One is a huge burger fan and his favourite, Pietro’s Italian sausage burger, is served at Bar 91, which he also appreciates for its Scottish beers, especially William Brothers’ Joker IPA. Lebowski’s Pop-up, for which Rogue One designed some of the signage, serves more than 40 different types of tequila and has a party atmosphere. The West End’s Brewdog, with its view of the Kelvingrove gallery, is one of his favourite locals.
Charli Summers, assistant curator at Compass gallery, enjoys eating and hanging out at the Project Cafe, a social enterprise that funds its event space by cooking fresh, homemade food, and Scottish restaurant Stravaigin. For vintage shopping, she recommends Vintage Guru. Jill Gurbur, director of Compass, favours Two Fat Ladies, Ubiquitous Chip and the Wee Curry Shop and photographer Tommy Ga-Ken Wan is a fan of lunchtime theatre at the Oran Mor’s A Play, a Pie and a Pint.
MORE TO SEE
SWG3
Warehouse that houses artists’ studios, a gallery, a bar and hosts club nights and live music events.
The Briggait
Former fish market encompassing artists’ studios, cultural organisations, a cafe and exhibition spaces.
The People’s Palace
A collection of historical artefacts, photographs, prints and film offering insight into the lives of Glaswegians past and present, and now showing the art of Billy Connolly.
The Burrell Collection
Huge collection of more than 9,000 objects that represent five millennia of art and history, situated in Glasgow’s Pollok Country Park.
The Modern Institute
Contemporary gallery founded by GSA graduate Toby Webster.
