Japan’s reputation as an overcrowded and urban country extends only to the coastal plains where the majority of the population live. A good 70% of the country is mountainous, and thanks to a hiking boom that has swept the nation over the past decade, trains, buses, mountain huts and trailheads are easy to access and well-maintained.
The Japanese archipelago stretches along the Pacific ring of fire, from frigid Hokkaido in the far north to the sub-tropical Ryukyu Islands in the south. The Japanese Alps are on the main island of Honshu, which has a distinct rainy season lasting from early June until mid-July, so avoid hiking at that time. The best season for hiking is from August until early November. Alpine roads and trails are usually open in time for Golden Week (a series of national holidays) in late April/early May, but be prepared for huge amounts of snow in the mountains between then and the rainy season.
All large train stations have a tourist information centre and can often help with transport and accommodation. Most mountain huts are open from early July to early September (though check online beforehand), provide hot meals and bedding, and in the main don’t require reservations. A pair of simple crampons may be useful for navigating snowfields.
Mount Asahi, Hokkaido
Duration 6 to 8 hours
Level Easy to moderate
The Daisetsuzan national park is a sprawling, volcanic wilderness area in the centre of the northern island of Hokkaido, and Mount Asahi is a popular and readily accessible introduction to this region.
The hike From the car park, look for the large yellow Beware of Bears sign: this is where the trail starts. It is clearly marked, with wooden planks for most of the way, and after following the stream, the path climbs the flank of the volcano abruptly. After around 90 minutes, you’ll meet the trail junction and possibly the crowds who came on the gondola (from Asahidake village; runs all year). Take a right, and in 20 minutes you’ll come to an emergency hut for use in the case of an eruption. From here it’s about a two-hour climb to the summit, with the national park spread out before you. You can return the way you came or, for an interesting loop-hike, descend steeply (crossing a year-round snowfield) towards Naka-dake hot spring and then back towards the gondola.
Getting there From Sapporo station, take a JR Limited Express train for Asahikawa (about £26), and from there take a bus bound for Asahi-dake Onsen and get off at the last stop.
Mount Chōkai, Akita-Yamagata
Duration 7 to 9 hours
Level Moderate
For a hike that offers a little taste of everything Japanese mountains can offer, Mount Chōkai on the border of Akita and Yamagata prefectures is the perfect choice. Year-round snowfields, picturesque volcanic lakes and an abundance of wild flowers make this one of the best hikes in the Tohoku region - on the main island of Honshu, north of Tokyo.
The hike The trail starts at Hokodate car park, where there is a hut to stay at. Follow the well-maintained path, which rises steadily and has good views of the adjacent gorge. After a while you’ll reach the flatlands of Sai-no-kawara, and the popular Ohama hut (reservations recommended in summer), but continue towards the peak for an hour and you’ll come to the second main junction. To make a loop-hike, take the left trail, which crosses a snowfield and becomes more rocky before reaching the summit after about 90 minutes. Descend to another snowfield and across to the twin peak of Mount Shichikou, before turning around and heading for Mount Gyoja. Simply follow the ridge and within half an hour you will arrive at Mount Monju, from where it is a 20-minute descent to the junction at the start of the loop.
Getting there There is an extremely limited bus service (reservation only, +81 184 43 6608) from Kisakata station to Hakodate. It’s much more convenient to hire a car. There’s also a night bus from Tokyo station to Kisakata.
Mount Fuji, Shizuoka
Duration Varies, but allow two days
Level Moderate
At 3,776m, Mount Fuji is Japan’s highest, as well as its most iconic, peak. While some may argue that it is a mountain better viewed from afar rather than ascended directly, it is climbed by thousands of people, from schoolchildren to pensioners, every climbing season (July to early September). Even so, it should not be taken lightly, as it is a gruelling hike and the effects of altitude sickness can start from as low as 2,500m. Expect cold temperatures on the summit even in summer. The most popular way to tackle it is by climbing up to one of the many mountain huts, getting a few hours’ sleep and then leaving before dawn and joining the processions of people climbing in the dark (bring a head torch) to view the sunrise from the peak. During the height of climbing season, it can seem like half of Tokyo is up there, but it is a uniquely Japanese outdoor experience. When the weather is good the outstanding views make it all worthwhile.
The hike There are many trails up to the summit but all are steep and rocky, and most people stay one night in a mountain hut; fujisan-climb.jp has all the information you need for planning your route and itinerary.
Getting there Return train tickets from Tokyo to Mount Fuji can be purchased from jreast.co.jp (£29), the ticket provides access to trains – and buses up to the fifth base station from where most ascents begin.
Mount Tsurugi, Toyama
Duration 2 or 3 days
Level Moderate to hard
Deep inside the northern Japanese Alps, Tsurugi is a mountain revered by climbers all over Japan. Its steep sides and jagged pinnacles meant it was the last of the Alpine peaks to be conquered and even now represents one of the toughest hikes in Japan. A series of chains and ladders near the summit make things a little easier, but it is still an adrenaline-fuelled challenge with countless vertical drops – suitable only for those with a head for heights and scrambling experience.
The hike From Murodo bus terminal, follow the paved walkway past Mikurigaike pond and the hissing steam vents to the campsite at Raicho-daira. From there it’s an easy climb up to Tsurugigozen hut, before the path drops down to Tsurugisawa hut and campsite. Consider staying here, and then on the next day head for Mae-Tsurugi. The path is steep in places but easy to follow. From then on things get “interesting” as climbers grapple with chains before scuttling up the almost vertical and vertigo-inducing kani-no-tatebai, or wall of rock. From there, it’s a short scramble to the top of Mount Tsurugi, so be sure to take in the spectacular views from this legendary mountain. Just be careful on the way back down.
Getting there From Tateyama station, take the cable car and bus to Murodo bus terminal. Note: it’s very popular and busy in the summer.
Mount Oku-Hotaka, Nagano
Duration Allow two days
Level Moderate to hard
The Hotaka massif looms over Kamikochi resort, a small alpine village in the heart of the mountains, and one of the main gateways to the Japanese Alps. From the Kappa bridge, the imposing rocky peaks are much photographed by day trippers – who don’t make it much further than the old-fashioned hotels dotted around the valley. Serious hikers will have their sights set a little higher.
The hike Cross Kappa bridge and follow the path to the right of the hotel until you reach the sign for Dakesawa. Two hours of walking through pleasant forest will bring you out at the Dakesawa hut, from where the real climb begins. It’s a steep two- to three-hour ascent to Mae-Hotaka, and then another 90 minutes of rocky scrambling to reach Oku-Hotaka, the third-highest mountain in Japan. Follow the paint marks for a short, sharp descent down ladders to the Hotaka-dake hut. The next day, rise early for a short climb up to Mount Karasawa, then go back to the hut, and follow the path down into the col to Karasawa hut and tent city. The Hotaka ridgeline rises menacingly above, but follow the meandering path to the Yokoo-sansou hut, from where it’s a long but gentle hike back to Kamikochi.
Getting there There are buses from Takayama and Matsumoto stations, and direct night buses from Tokyo and Osaka-Kyoto.
Mount Kaimon, Kagoshima
Duration 5 or 6 hours
Level Easy
On the southern tip of Kyushu island, which is famed for its volcanoes and hot springs, Mount Kaimon is a perfect conical (and dormant) volcano, which offers sweeping panoramic ocean views and makes for a satisfying day trip from the nearby city of Kagoshima.
The hike The trailhead is a 30-minute walk from the station (where there’s a useful map), so turn right and head towards the mountain, which lies due south. The road winds up a gentle hill before reaching the forest entrance and the start of the hike proper. From there it’s almost impossible to get lost as there is only one way to the top, so simply follow the path as it spirals around the mountain. The trail is rocky in places, and very sweaty in summer, so the best time to do it is in the autumn, when the forest will be full of orange and crimson hues. The vegetation thins out near the summit, from where there are outstanding views of the ocean and outlying islands.
Getting there From JR Yamakawa station take a train to Kaimon station. Be warned, the trains are infrequent, so it may be easier to hire a car and drive down from Kagoshima.
Further resources
Hyperdia.com is an essential website for checking train schedules, while the Yama-to-Kogen series of maps by Shobunsha are all in Japanese, but very detailed, easy to understand, and available in all good bookshops.
