Certain hotels you don’t so much visit as sink into – those rare places that feel immediately comfortable but, in their remoteness and beauty, offer a complete escape from your daily grind. After a hard week at work, isn’t that precisely what you want from a weekend away? You need a place to retreat, de-stress and regroup. You need Tudor Farmhouse.
“Ask people around here if they’re from England or Wales and they’ll say Forest,” said owner Colin Fell, as we motored from Lydney station through the Forest of Dean. This somewhat isolated enclave – above Bristol and the river Severn, almost Wales, not quite the Cotswolds – remains relatively unknown. Outdoorsy types come to get muddy in the Wye Valley, and history buffs love Tintern Abbey and Raglan Castle, but the area lacks the picturesque, ivy-clad villages that would attract day-trippers.
The village of Clearwell is evidently an exception. Bathed in evening sunlight, it felt like the set of a Richard Curtis film, with its old stone buildings, minimal traffic and strangers saying hello. It is tiny, but there are country walks in every direction, several nooks to explore (a grotto-like well, its Gothic revival castle) and, importantly, two village pubs.
Tudor Farmhouse is a collection of 16th-century stone buildings, with a courtyard garden, orchard, allotments and free-range hens. It is a ridiculously pretty spot, but, internally, the rugged character of these handsome buildings is allowed to shine. There are floors so uneven you feel drunk walking on them, ancient winding staircases, huge grates now housing wood-burning stoves, and medieval panelling, doors and beams. Its 20 bedrooms (many were refurbished over the winter) are restrained in their neat greige decor. Throughout, there is a pleasing lack of clutter and cottagey cuteness.
My entry-level “hatchling” room (all are named after chicken sizes, except the suites) was compact but smooth-functioning – tiny niggles aside (slightly fiddly Velux window, small wine crates for bedside tables). The space has been used intelligently and has everything you need, from a full-length mirror to homemade shortbread. The detail (wooden hangers, duckdown pillows, fresh milk) was sound. I liked the clear TV instructions and the one-click Wi-Fi. It all just worked. The staff were, likewise, warm but well-drilled.
The hotel’s restaurant is the final redoubt, a cocoon of tea lights, exposed stone and leaded windows. After an aperitif of white wine from a vineyard in nearby Tintern Parva (spritzy and enjoyable) or a beer from local Hillside Brewery (excellent), real life will seem very remote.
There was the odd fault, most notably an over-reduced meat jus that was more like glue, but generally chef Martin Adams’s food is technically adept and his flavours ring true. His dish design needs greater discipline, however. White chocolate was an interesting garnish for mackerel (like salted chocolate), but jarred with the accompanying pickled beetroot. The dish didn’t need both. Likewise, in its individual components, a main course of calf’s liver and 72-day aged brisket was impressive but, texturally, the two meats were not complementary. It felt like I had two competing, if tasty, dishes on the same plate.
Well-fed nonetheless, I toddled off to bed and fell asleep to a soundtrack of bleating lambs. Next morning, after breakfast (a quality spread), it was back to grim reality, joining the commuters at Lydney station. But after a night at Tudor Farmhouse, that early start felt much more bearable.
• Accommodation was provided by Tudor Farmhouse, High Street, Clearwell, 01594 833046; tudorfarmhousehotel.co.uk. Doubles from £100 B&B. Three-course dinner about £31. Travel between Manchester and Lydney was provided by CrossCountry Trains (crosscountrytrains.co.uk), with returns from £63
Ask a local
Kate Humble, TV presenter and owner of the Humble By Nature farm centre, Monmouth
• Eat
The Wye Valley has a well-deserved reputation for fine eateries, including Michelin-starred Whitebrook and the Walnut Tree. Just down the road from the farm is the lovely Inn at Penallt. The great foodie event is Abergavenny Food Festival each September.
• Drink
The Boat in Penallt is a good locals’ pub, as is the Brockweir Inn. I also love the Clytha Arms for good food and excellent cider and perry.
• Walking
There are endless possibilities. The Three Castles Walk, the Monnow Valley Walk, the Wye Valley Walk and Offa’s Dyke all pass through the area.
• Canoeing
Paddling down the river Wye is a lovely way to experience the stunning countryside. Hire canoes from Monmouth Canoe.
• Sites
There are historical sites such as Chepstow Castle and, for families, Clearwell Caves.
The Humble by Nature Big Day Out is on 4 July, humblebynature.com
