Slap bang in the eye of the Roaring Forties, but sheltered by protective cliffs, Boat Harbour Beach is nestled on Tasmania’s rugged north-west coast, where fertile farmlands tumble into the wild waters of Bass Strait.
Beach cottages hug its slopes, and its picturesque, secluded qualities are reminiscent of Pearl beach north of Sydney or Hyams beach on the New South Wales south coast. This little slice of heaven, 15 minutes’ drive from the Burnie/Wynyard airport and two hours from Launceston, is a haven for return visitors like us seeking their regular fix. It’s also a delight for first-timers. We recommend you hire a car to get there from the airport.
Tucked away off the Bass Highway, which tracks the coast from Ulverstone in the east to Stanley in the west, Boat Harbour is an excellent base to explore this spectacular coast with its natural, historic and culinary delights. Unless of course, all you want to do is dig in for 48 hours of serious relaxation, with a panorama of extraordinary views. Though understandable, that would be a pity.
Friday
4pm: Beach walk and food at Harvest and Cater
Everything in Boat Harbour Beach is within walking distance. Take an invigorating walk to properly appreciate the beach (and admire the mostly wooden beach houses). The beach is a pristine curve of white sand punctuated by craggy grey rocks. At low tide, the sand is a blinding sweep fringed by startling turquoise, refreshing (OK, freezing) water. At high tide, the waves and local surfers roll in.
In pride of place on the beach is Harvest and Cater, the beach’s only food outlet lodged in the Boat Harbour Surf Lifesaving clubhouse, with both indoor and outdoor tables. An excellent flat white and flourless chocolate cake with berry coulis and Valhalla raspberry swirl ice-cream is on offer, or if you’ve thrown regular mealtimes to the winds, try the exquisitely fresh, light-battered fish and chips with tartare sauce.
6pm: Stirling Cottage
Time to appreciate the vista and the peace from Stirling Cottage, a well-equipped, spacious retreat on the edge of the water, one of a number of holiday places for rent.
The setting sun is turning the sea midnight blue and shoals drift east towards the tawny headland of Table Cape. Amble down through the drought-proofed gardens of bottlebrush, grevillea, aloe, lavender and dianthus to rock-hop before barbecue fire-up time. Sundowners (northern Tasmania’s Ninth Island sparkling) on the broad deck, a meal of Tassie produce picked up earlier in Wynyard, then sleep to the sound of the sea.
Saturday
7am: Beach body surfing
If you haven’t brought your board and wetsuit, it’ll have to be body surfing. The regimented lines of waves are irresistible, tubes of turquoise water – an excellent way to work up an appetite.
Despite stormy Bass Strait, Boat Harbour is a safe swimming beach. It was originally known as Jacob’s Boat Harbour and legend has it that a Captain John Jacobs fell asleep at the helm and instead of wrecking himself, drifted into the haven of Boat Harbour. The little port was settled in the 1830s when it was used to transport potatoes to Burnie and Devonport.
9am: Breakfast at Killynaught
Choose baked eggs with avocado and sourdough eggs or chickpea fritters with poached eggs, asparagus, rocket and roast tomatoes (both $16) to kickstart your day. Killynaught is five minutes’ drive up from the beach. It also has four-star cottage accommodation and serves lunch and dinner, using local Tasmanian produce.
If you’re visiting on the first or third Saturday of the month, drop in on Tasmania’s first farmers’ market in Burnie between 8.30am and noon. Grab another coffee and see if you can resist tasting the cheeses.
11am: Table Cape lookout and lighthouse walk
Take the bracing 30-minute cliff walk from Table Cape lookout to the Table Cape lighthouse, built in 1888. It’s set on a sheer cliff with the ocean crashing 180 metres below. If you like, take one of the lighthouse tours run every 20 minutes from 11am to 3pm. Climb the four-level spiral staircase, hear about the history and enjoy the panoramic views from Stanley in the west to Low Head in the east.
Table Cape’s flat-topped promontory is a large volcanic plug formed 13.3 million years ago. Lava flows formed a basalt plain and rain and weathering resulted in the deep red fertile soils. In spring, fields of tulips, irises and lilies explode in colour, smothering the “table”. The annual Tulip Festival is in October. Visit the Table Cape Tulip farm, Van Diemen Quality Bulbs on lighthouse road to see fuchsias, geraniums, pelargoniums, ornamental trees and rare native coastal grasses and alpine shrubs.
4pm: Sisters Beach and Rocky Cape national park
Nearby Rocky Cape National Park is only small but it’s a terrific place for walking among banksia and coastal heath and rockpool rambling along the rugged shore.
The 3km-long seaside village of Sisters Beach is within the park on an old horse trail known as Postman’s Track. You can walk a 25km full circuit of the park, but not likely at 4pm.
Choose one of the many shorter walks that take in Aboriginal rock shelters and caves, hillsides of wildflowers, birdlife, tranquil bays and headlands. A good one is the Banksia Grove and Wet Cave circuit from Irby Boulevard at the Sisters Beach boat ramp. It’s a fine coastal walk through native vegetation, taking about an hour return. This is a place of significance to Tasmanian Aborigines who once lived in the sea caves. For a shorter option, the North Cave/Lighthouse walk is only 10-20 minutes return. Views of Bass Strait from the lighthouse are pretty spectacular.
7pm: Dinner – at home, locally or in Burnie
You can rustle up dinner on your beach house deck, or if you’re prepared to eat earlier, wander down to Harvest and Cater for a Harvest Platter for two (Alaskan king crab, crumbed scallops, salmon bruschetta, salt and pepper calamari and fried flake with a Greek salad - $69 or a barbecued beef fillet with Italian potato cake and red wine jus – $28).
But if you don’t mind driving 30 minutes to Burnie, Bayviews on the esplanade does very good Modern Australian food with a focus on Tasmanian produce. Think Masterstock braised Scottsdale pork belly, warm buckwheat noodle salad, pickled ginger and soy mayonnaise and Nim Jam dressing ($35) or Longford eye fillet from northern Tasmania ($39).
Sunday
7am: Sleep in
Start your day lazily. The cottage has a Nespresso machine. Just make sure you’ve picked up fruit and yoghurt and a loaf of sourdough for toast. In the pantry, you’ll find Vegemite, jam, marmalade. Watch the headland change colour as the sun comes up.
11am: Stanley and The Nut
Drive west along the Bass Highway into the remote northwest and the fishing village of Stanley, the region’s earliest settlement. The first landmark you will see is The Nut, a basalt plug of rock forced up 30 million years ago. Hop on the $15 return chairlift, which will take you 143m to the top of the massif. Take the 2km circular one-hour walk giving views from all sides over the Southern Ocean, plus there’s a stroll through a forest.
Pick a few stops on the Stanley’s heritage walk. Look in on Joe Lyons cottage, the birthplace and childhood home of Tasmania’s first (and only) prime minister of Australia.
Visit the Van Diemen’s Land Company’s historic Highfield House, with its elegant Regency architecture, wonderful views and fine 1800s furniture.
1pm: Picnic lunch
Rustle up a picnic hamper at Stanley’s Providore 24. You’ll find local produce like pots of 41° South smoked salmon rillettes, local pate, honey and cheese, fresh baked bread plus some seriously good Tassie wine.
3pm: Meander Valley tasting trail
Your drive back to Launceston for the flight home takes you along part of the Meander Valley tasting trail. Cool climate and rich soils make raspberries grown in the Great Western Tiers region some of the best in the world.
Order something with raspberries at the Christmas Hills Raspberry Farm in Elizabethtown. The coffee’s good too. The farm grows more than eight varieties of raspberries and there are blackberries and strawberries too.
Ashgrove Cheese Farm is nearby. You can stop and taste their award winning cheeses. Ditto with The House of Anvers for chocolate. You’ll be wearing the extra carry-on baggage but you’ll be so relaxed, you won’t care.
Places to stay
312 Port Road, Boat Harbour Beach
0409 654 964
268 Port Road, Boat Harbour Beach
0458 591 777
Boat Harbour Beach Holiday Park
21 Moore Street, Boat Harbour Beach
0407 901 943
