The de rigueur holiday destination for Sydneysiders from the northern suburbs, Novocastrians and, increasingly, Victorians, Pacific Palms has all the laid-back allure and environmental credentials of Byron Bay 30 years ago.

A collection of seaside villages just 20 minutes beyond Seal Rocks, what has saved it from ruin is the curvaceous, once potholed access road – the Lakes Way – requiring visitors to turn off the main Pacific Highway two-and-a-half hours north of Sydney. That, and the existence of Foster/Tuncurry, a more traditional beach holiday destination, 25km up the road.

The area has long been popular with surfers drawn to beaches like Boomerang, with its rolling swell, Blueys, named after a cow that fell off cliffs at its southern end, and unpopulated Cellito, a few kilometres down a dirt track. A fortunate few bought beachfront land or shacks behind Blueys and Boomerang 30 years ago and sold them for millions in the noughties, leaving the views to wealthy Sydneysiders and their holiday let investment properties.

In the Palms, good food is at a premium. The area has an amiable vibe, with even teenage surfers ready to greet you on the beach.

In Pacific Palms, the unspoilt environment’s the thing. So don’t even think about bringing your jet-ski here, even though Smiths Lake sits in its midst and it is backed by the oyster-stuffed Wallis Lake. Instead try paddleboarding, do a yoga class, take the kids to serene Elizabeth beach or go (non-aggressive) commando at the clothing optional Shelly beach in Booti Booti national park.

In all there are seven beautiful beaches on the doorstep and three coastal lagoon systems, including the massive Myall Lakes to the south, giving the impression of water everywhere. Also surrounding the Palms are three national parks (Booti Booti, Wallingat and Myall Lakes) that encompass large waterways and forests, including some subtropical littoral vegetation behind Cellito beach.

Friday

4pm After the three-hour drive from Sydney, hit Boomerang beach for a refreshing swim, then drop into Blueys Cellars to stock up on wine, beer and deli treats.

7pm For dinner, try Indonesian-themed cafe/restaurant Kembali, across the road from Blueys shops (Blueys is a beach with a small village and about eight shops and cafes behind it). On the menu are mains such as nasi goreng and gado gado.

Saturday

8am: Hang out over breakfast with local cyclists, shoeless surfers and sleep-deprived mums at Twenty by Twelve cafe amid the little row of Blueys beach shops. This isn’t the big city so be prepared to wait for your coffee, but breakfast offerings, especially the sautéed field mushrooms, are up to Sydney standards.

9am: If you’re in the mood to unwind, head to Blueys yoga studio (massage also available) across the road for a 90-minute Vinyasa flow class. Yoga of the Heart also holds classes (8.30-10am Saturdays) at the Surf Club behind Elizabeth beach.

12.30pm: Have lunch beside Wallis Lake at Ripples cafe, a tad north of the Palms near Tiona caravan park on Lakes Way. With its warm, shallow water, it’s a safe spot for families with young children and the Green Cathedral – a lovely outdoor bush church beside the lake – is a short walk along the shore.

2.30pm: Laze beside the Pacific Ocean on Elizabeth beach or, if you’re feeling energetic, book in for a surf lesson at Boomerang or Blueys with Gary Hughes to understand all the fuss about local breaks.

6pm: Have an evening drink outside Pacific Palms Recreation Club, probably the area’s ugliest building but nonetheless a local institution, with an enviable location beside Wallis Lake. Dwell here for a sublime lakeside sunset.

8pm: For dinner you can either go posh and pricey at Kingfisher restaurant, where Wallis Lake oysters are a must and mains start at $26, or opt for casual and convivial at Hueys at Blueys pizza joint, which also does takeaway. Both restaurants are licensed. Other than partying on at your accommodation, heading back to the Reccy is your only option for a late night in Pacific Palms.

Sunday

9am: Have a leisurely waterside breakfast at Frothy Coffee boatshed in the leafy village of Smiths Lake.

10am: Rent a kayak (from $40 per hour) from the boatshed to explore the lake or take a stand-up paddleboard lesson with Jeff and Francesca Hanlon. An hour’s one-on-one lesson on tranquil Smiths Lake costs $65, or $50 per person for two people, including board and paddle rental. The family rate is $120 for two adults and two kids.

11.30am: Take it easy on Blueys beach or stroll over the hill to nudist haven Shelly beach for a skinny-dip in the luminescent ocean. If you still have energy to burn though, do the 7km Booti Booti walk, which rises steeply at the northern end of Elizabeth beach before following the wooded cliffs to Seven Mile beach. Cross the road from the Ruins campground to follow the trail back along the fringes of Wallis Lake.

1.30pm: Have lunch at local’s favourite Jenz cafe just off the Blueys’ main drag, before gathering yourselves up for the journey home.

3pm Before you leave, stop off for a stroll and a final cleansing swim at Main beach at Seal Rocks, where the Australian movie Adoration, starring Robin Wright and Naomi Watts, was shot.

Getting there

Pacific Palms is three-hour drive from Sydney via the Pacific Highway and Lakes Way. The nearest airports are Taree, which is an hour north, and Newcastle, 90 minutes to the south. The former is linked to Sydney and Newcastle by Rex flights.

Newcastle has flights to Sydney, Melbourne, Brisbane, the Gold Coast and Canberra.

Accommodation

Pacific Palms has a wealth of accommodation but does get booked up in the summer school holidays and at Easter.

At the upper end of the scale are lavish beachfront pads for rent through pacificpalmsholidays.com.au, Stayz and Airbnb.

Mobys, a five-minute walk behind Boomerang beach, has houses for rent from $170 per night (two-night minimum) with pool and Buddha-by-the-Beach restaurant on site.

Blueys by the Beach motel has nine decent rooms right in the heart of the village from $120 per night.

The Ruins campground behind Seven Mile beach, in Booti Booti national park has camping (BYO tent of course) for $14 adults, $7 kids, $7 per day vehicle fee.

Other summer activities

Pacific Palms market, usually held on the last Sunday of every month beside the Recreation club, is a social magnet with a surprising array of produce, food stalls and knick-knacks.

Further information

Pacific Palms visitor information centre is open 10am to 4pm most days.