Jonna Dagliden 

The foodie traveller … in Stockholm: the new take on coffee and cake

In Stockholm, traditional fika coffee shops are taking a sophisticated turn as Michelin-starred chefs open a new wave of bakeries
  
  

The Green Rabbit bakery, Stockholm
The Green Rabbit bakery, Stockholm Photograph: PR

The traditional fika, which means a rendezvous for a coffee and a pastry, has been part of Swedish culture since the 18th century – and has since spread outside its borders. But now the tradition is taking a more sophisticated turn, as famous Stockholm chefs move into opening bakeries.

The Green Rabbit bakery in the Vasastan neighbourhood was opened in May by Michelin-starred chefs Martin Berg and Mathias Dahlgren. It’s a quaint, pared-down bakery with a focus on rye bread, including sesame rye, Danish rye and svedje, an old recipe using Nordic grain, plus delicate blueberry and raspberry muffins.

At Wienercaféet, – opened last year by Daniel Lindeberg, previously half the duo of Michelin-starred Frantzen/Lindeberg restaurant in the old town – guests can view the bakers at work through a glass wall. The Danish pastries are delicious and the grand setting, complete with crystal chandeliers and dark wood interior, suitably decadent. However, Lindeberg recently left Wienercaféet to open Lindeberg Bakery and Patisserie in south-east Stockholm.

World champion pastry chef Daniel Roos (gold medal winner at the Culinary Olympics in Erfurt, Germany, in 2012) has finally opened his own bakery, having previously worked at prestigious restaurants such as Operakällaren in the Opera house. His bakery, whose delights include treats such as tarts made with chocolate mousse and yuzu, and mango and dulce de leche, is part of a new culinary centre called K-märkt formed by Roos with chef Johan Gottberg and sommelier Jens Dolk

 

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